Thursday, 19 February 2009

Roving Reporter : Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler showed a sassy and sexy collection, with many extremely wearable, yet creative pieces. While there were plenty of separates, the main show case pieces were coats, jackets and dresses. 
Opting for a similar colour palette to many of their counterparts this week, New York Fashion Week-ers were treated a selection of camel, black and stone grey as a base, accented by flashes of eighties style metallic blue, pink/purple, gold and silver.

Styling was minimal, with strong brows (again a look that has been well used by many designers this week), slightly messy 'up do's' and barely there make up.
Models legs were clad in thick Winter tights (see even fashion feels Global Warming), which varied from black opaque to patterned grey.

Double breasted camel coats and bomber style jackets were the first pieces to hit the runway. There is often a lot of fur around in NYC due to its ice cold Winters and this has certainly been reflected on the catwalk this week. 
City shorts and tights has been a huge trend in the past and I'm really loving this refreshing change this week, as this is one of the fist pairs I have seen.
 The panelling detail (shown above) was another key feature on many of the garments and reflects the cut out details seen everywhere this week.

When I think 'Bomber Jackets', I'm reminded of those ugly puffers people use to where to school. Proenza Schouler however have totally reformed my thinking! Their selection of stylish, wool bombers are set to be a huge hit. Practical and stylish, now how often does that happen?!

It is not obvious what inspired the dynamic duo behind Proenza Schouler for this collection, with their last being predominantly eighties, there were definite elements of that still seeping through. However many felt that this collection was simply about beautiful and wearable pieces. The dress coat above again gives a nod towards the cut out trend, with this sleek, streamlined panelling, but any definite points of research are still a mystery at this stage of the collection.

Metallic is huge this Summer and by the looks of NY Fashion Week the craze is set to continue well into next season. This is a fabulous little shift, like Marc Jacobs, they have teamed a gold dress with black opaque tights to give more dressed down look, perhaps due to the economic crisis designers are looking towards opulence that is more understated?

Asymmetric dresses; How many more times can I use that phrase?
Again here we see the jewel in the crown of LBD's. This dress has SUCH an eighties vibe and I see all is not lost in this collection on the trend side!
Cut outs, wet look/velvet sections, twists and drapes this is one LBD that has the lot. Again the slightly less elegant shoes give it this hip, toned down vibe, favoured by the NY cool kids.

These last two party frocks were to me the jewel in the crown. 
Aside from the vibrant and uplifting colours, the slashed details are simply divine and though working along the lines of themes I have already seen this week were really quite refreshing and interesting. 
Proenza Schouler has developed a collection that incorporates wearable, classics, with fantastic party frocks that are sure to be the talk of fashion editors everywhere!

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