Last night my fabulous assistant agreed to be my date to the LCF MA show.
I was really excited to find the next best thing, as last years MA course delivered us Manjit Deu (now stocked in Harrods) and outstanding menswear talent (and now since last years MA one of my bestest buds!) Dimitri Stavrou. So I was pretty hopeful.
The stars really turned out, spotted included: Jo Wood, Mika, Jodie Harsh, Paloma Faith, Marina (from Marina and the Diamonds) & Keisha (Sugababes). Fashion favs including Vogue.com team, The Telegraphs Hilary Alexander (who I got to sit behind and breath in the fashionable air) and of course fashion master Harold Tilman.
I also bumped into last years winner Manjit Deu who was slightly mournful his crowning year was up and it was time to pass on the flame to another student!
BEST STYLING AND MUSIC - Soo Youn Seo:
Seo chose to dress each model in one single block colour and matching bob wig, making each model look like they were part of a packet of crayons! To top it all off the music was a remixed version of the Simpson theme tune!
This womenswear collection was bright and brash and totally perfect for stage performances and photoshoots. It reminded me slightly of Emma Bell collections but I loved the white tux jacket with sparkly lapel and the twists, drapes and strong shoulders. Not massively original the styling and execution made it very memorable.
FAV WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION - Nicole Murray
I may be at odds with the judges on this but the only collection I desired to own and shoot from all 19 shown was Murray's. It was all class! Beautiful execution, delicious fabrics, exceptional bias cutting and totally cohesive. Many of the collections this time round were disjointed with excellent individual pieces but no overall range. Nicole however field me with faith! The skinniest cigarette pants, delicate tulle ruffling, furs and tassels, slinky skirts and soft silk shirts. This 40's look was simply divine. The colour palette of nude, bottle green and monochrome created a soft and relaxing collection that paid exceptional attention to detail. My personal fav.
THE MENSWEAR COLLECTION THAT DIDN'T WIN BUT I LOVED ANYWAY - Domingo Rodriguez:
This menswear collection combined tailoring and cable knits to created a very beautifully layered look. I loved the stone and chocolate colour palette that felt both wintery and wearable. The graduated tailored coats and jackets, cable knits and fur gilets had me bouncing in my seat. While the asymmetric leather jackets, waterfall draped front pieces and slouchy trousers (the new relaxed tailoring) allowed for a collection that was cohesive and utilised excellent layering pieces. A gorgeous collection.
FAV ACCESSORY - So Ra Kim:
Mickey Mouse ears have become quite a regular occurrence in fashion shows lately but I loved
the glitter pair shown in Kim's collection. I'd like to rock them at fashion week please! get in touch.
THE COLLECTION MADE TO SHOCK - Merve Tuna:
I may have just dismissed this collection simply as a stunt. I have no issues with using fur in fashion (yes I am evil), but as this taxidermy collection of Boars heads and fox bodies fashioned into arms etc travelled down the runway I couldn't help but worry that PETA were about to pounce and I may get paint on my DKNY!
Overall while this collection did make everyone sit up it didn't deliver. Great you got some dead animals but what you gonna do now?
A BIT DE JA VU BUT I LIKED IT - Steve Corcoran.
SS10 Burberry was all pastel satins and mirrored embellishment and while Corcoran translated this look to menswear it was undeniably similar to that of Burberry's SS10 womenswear show. Having said that it was definitely shoot worthy, jackets and suiting were excellently executed and I have it on good authority that the collection weighed a tone. Making it a winner in my book. Sadly however I cant get Burberry off the brain.
THE HIP HOP LOOK - Eliana Dimitriakopoulou
Need I say too much. The most outstanding use of fur, the models looked like yummy marshmellows and squishy balls of cotton wall. The dye techniques on the fur made this collection outstanding. It was however ruined by the fact that she only made coats and the girls wore metallic bikinis to cover their modesty. This did drive me to distraction as it cheapened the look. However if you are a fur wearer, this girl is for you.
THE (judges) RUNNER UP: Young Li Lee
I really liked the first piece that Lee presented. The detailing was so intricate, all the twists and turns made the models looked like wrapped presents or better still like winding musical notes. However not all pieces lived up to the detail of the first which detracted the overall joy somewhat. Evidently an incredible artist and a woman of capability I would've like to have seen the same detailing and extravagance lavished on the first piece run throughout. I also loved the leather draped gilet.
THE (judges) WINNER - Sven Hoppe
I had him earmarked as the winner mainly as he was showing last so this appears to be the trend for the running order (Manjit showed last too).
Sven's collection had a very Germanic feel and in fact Sven looked just like his collection (I love it when designers reflect their design ethos). The fabric choices were impeccable and infallible.
Brushed wool suiting had the appearance of chain mail while wool jackets had latex panelling. THe colour mix of bronze, copper and winter grey was simply divine and the slouchy trousers followed the trend from majority of the menswear collections from the night. The mix of fabric and texture really grabbed the eye and the pieces were excellently cut and executed. A truly worthy winner of such a prestigious award.
MY WINNERS: Domingo Rodriguez and Nicole Murray (who are part of Harold T's scholarship fund)