Tuesday, 29 June 2010
Sunday, 27 June 2010
Thursday, 24 June 2010
The collection is so vintage! It looks just like a boutique collection, so not high street.
While topshop will prob be imitating trends, Miss Selfridge will be creating them. The coats were divine and they have the best high street party dresses. It was all pure class!
So many bugle beads and sequins! Lots of chiffon and the cuts were simple but elegant.
Start saving! As you'll want more than one.
I love the faux fur trim mac.
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Thursday, 17 June 2010
(The girls from Idol Magazine and Isabel 'Vogue Intern' on the end in white)
Thursday, 10 June 2010
The press room was brimming with famous faces. Erin O'Connor, who was working the room in bare foot looked fab in a silver beaded jacket, while Nicola Roberts from Girls Aloud, looked frightfully tiny but fashionista in a black and gold Vivienne Westwood number. Zandra Rhodes dazzled in purple and pinks hues, while Elle editor Lorraine Candy kept it chic in a black Prada number. As if that wasn't enough Biba stood chatting to Eley of Eley Kishimoto and Rachel Stevens and fellow Popstar Amelle from the Sugababes were spotted in the press room.
But obviously this was all about the graduates and the auditorium quickly filled up. With Ashely Banjo being GFW face of River Island, it was no surprise that Diversity opened the show. They wowed the crowed with their creative dance routine and put us all in the party mood!
Before the main catwalk show and awards, it was time to honour those students that normally get passed over. Those that choose to study fashion marketing, promotion, media and the like often don't end up with kudos that is showered onto design students so it was nice to see them getting recognised.
Bournemouth graduate Ellie Mountford scooped the Fashion, Promotion and Media prize, while Jessica Dance waltzed off (sorry I couldn't resist) with the Creative Marketing award.
Nathalie Murray walked away with the Textile Award, while fellow Northumbria graduate Alice Barnes took home the Hachette Media and Design award. Northumbria had an excellent night as Amy Quickfall got the Strategic Marketing Award.
Luckily several other Universities didn't leave empty handed. Colchester took home two trophies, with Ellen Devall winning the First Word Journalism prize and Kitty Keay receiving the Mulberry Accesories Award presented by non other than Creative Director of Mulberry, Emma Hill, who simple adored Kitty's bags.
Then it was Marie Clare Editor Trish McEvoy's turn at the stand who presented the first 'Inspiration' award, voted online for by students graduating from the 22 GFW Uni's. Unsurprisingly the winner was Lee Alexander McQueen, with the award being picked up by his CEO, it was no shock that this creative talent touched so many, he inspired rebellion and beauty, something many design students struggle for.
There was an awkward moment, when GFW awarded high street retailer River Island, essentially for 'Services to the High Street', but really it was a way of saying cheers for all the money to put this on!
We moved swiftly on to the catwalk stage. This year there were European Universities in the line up and a seperate International Collection of the Year, which went to Roya Hesam (Amsterdam Institute), which I reviewed earlier in the week.
The BHM Visionary Knitwear Award went to Ledina Zhang, taking Northumbria's award total up a notch and into the lead.
The Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textile Prize unsurprisingly went to Anna Lee (De Montfort), who although I heard one journalist describe as "Ed Hardy on crack" due to its vibrancy and Chinese Dragon subject matter, the colours (orange and turquoise hues) were so vibrant and the mix of print velvet and silks didn't ensure that this collection was unforgettable.
The womenswear collection of the year went to my personal favourite Rhea Fields (Northbrook), who's latex suit jacket was so ingenius.
Menswear collection of the year went to Tim Crisp (Ravensbourne) who again was another favourite earlier in the week.
Finally the coveted River Island Gold Award that sees the winner walk away with £20,000 went to Manchester Met graduate Rebecca Thompson who's androgynous collection that had a strong '1800's' feel to it, that comprised of tailored trousers and intricately designed shirting, reminded me of Viktor and Rolf.
Under gold confetti, Rebecca took her walk of fame down the catwalk and the evening came to a close. It was off to the after party for drinks, tiny canapes and lots of dancing.
Cheerio graduates of 2010, let's see if 2011 can top you?
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Tuesday, 8 June 2010
Northampton students bucked the trends tonight for fetish and clown and instead there were some interesting and well cut pieces.
Laurell Wilding presented felted wool coats with ruched backs and sleeves that were so thick in gathering they had a pleated 3D effect.
Alice Cleary utilised traditional white cottons to create shirting, playsuits and high waisted skirts that were overlayed with laser cut cottons that gave a lace effect. It had a hippie, 60's feel and the little peplums were so cute.
Olivia Brodman leather work in grey and blue hues with tasseled upper arms were very cool and reminded me of menswear designer Dimitri Stavrou's graduate MA collection of 2009. Again I like the mixture of leathers with soft jersey pieces and tassels mixing hard and soft and creating texture.
Amy Robinson showed a grungy hippie collection that was extremely wearable and wouldn't look out of place in Topshop's basement designer section. Again laser cutting was the key and the rose style cuts done by perforated cut outs was really effective. I loved the wool lined biker waistcoat and the combination of dusky pink, icey blue and black.
Alex Newton's 50's full skirts with full tulle underneath came in a host of block painted prints in green, pink, cream and black. Cropped biker jackets also came in these key tones, as well as front wrap skirts and shift dresses. It was a really cohesive body of work.
Finally menswear came from Garry Butterfield who showed great textile techniques with his stitched embellished leathers and fur. I loved the fur draped coat, the tan leather jacket with black stitching and the red leather harem trouser and shorts. Trousers had pleated/gathered waists and the taupe, brown and green palette really gave the collection a rustic feel.
Well that's me done, good luck class of 2010!
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Caroline Mead's menswear however was full of heritage styling of plaid checks in mohair, maxi jumpers that swept the ground and pulleys that drew garments in creating balloon effects.
The menswear at Manchester was strong and Rebecca Neary's built in back pack jackets were well constructed and though not a new idea, a fun one nonetheless. I really liked the inky prints and the patchy dyes of the jackets in various blue tones. Whether leggings will catch on for boys or not, Neary is feeling the cream wool kind.
The strapped on multi gas mask inspired bags were cool, although I'd never find anything in them!
I loved Jessica Nicol's multi sleeve jackets that built up to look like walking pom poms. Hands were key and the white hand cut outs that dropped down created black shadow hands underneath. It was a clever concept.
Tulled chiffon also intrigued Poppy Warwicker Le- Breton who combined big ruffled top structures with snake charmer basket style skirts, they were huge knits and showed great skill.
This reflected well with Michael Bolton-Heaton's origami pom-pom skirts that added dimension to body con jersey tops with racer back panelling and cut outs.
Finally Sophie Blennerhassett's mis-matched, layered and raised knits teamed with chiffons in a host of navy, grey and chatreusse green were fun and eclectic. I loved the city shorts and the skinny ankle swinging trousers.
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Eleanor Mountfort's collection reminded me of D&G SS10, denim body suits over wide leg trousers in caramel and soft side drapes into peg legs. Oversized rose prints in dusky pink, cream, brown and navy made this a calming yet wearable collection.
Mariya Shulga followed with her 'Resurrection' collection. A balance between beauty and decay I adored the smash brick prints that adorned catsuits, tees and stretch dresses. There were shoulder pieces in leather and cage structure accessories and one sleeved wrap coats that had smash glass prints. It was all uber cool.
Anna Tiesten showed a selection of childrenswear that made the audience cheer with delight and the actual collection was as cute as the models. Pastel pink shorts and map printed shirts for girls and a mini Cath Kidson-esque printed jacket for boys was gorgeous and beautifully made.
I really liked Roxanne Newman's collection of dresses that featured laser cut overlays, chandelier skirts, bubble hems and perspex jewellery. The woven leather front of the chandelier skirt was divine a real juxtaposition of modern versus ancient.
Emily Sharp's foam dresses in black and white were as sweet as the liquorice allsorts printed on them! Curved petal collars and cone shapes were used as embellishments. It really was very cute and the mini childrenswear clothes were lovely.
Mel Austin was probably my favourite, I loved the delicate fringed dresses, the fringes were vertical and looked like draped shreds. Neck pieces of leather worked leaves, over layed into sculpture format was just as gorgeous and the cropped sleeve jacket of the same embellishment was well produced. Duck egg blue and cream tones added to the serenity. While splashes of lilac and mauve added a pop of colour.
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Samantha Bern's collection of soft silk and chiffon seperates was calming, well constructed and detailed. Pleat fronted, full trousers with sheer shirting with a ditzy, floaty print that reminded me of dandelions was grey on a cream base. A pleated front shirt jacket floated effortlessly down the runway and the turn up shorts looked totally elegant.
The grey toned palette added to the calming nature.
The knitwear at Nottingham was excellent. Emma Philpot's collection of crochet knits in grey and red were so well crafted. There were cowl hems, pomcho style tops and body con dresses. It balanced interest and commercial ability well.
Martha Ingle was the first menswear collection to show and I loved the kaleidoscope effect print. It was very sports chic and the hoodies and slim leg trousers made them look like action men. It was an interesting print but still really wearable.
Tiffany William's menswear focused on knit and was slightly more out-there. Knitted tunic boys? Or how about a jumper dress? I loved the woven in gold to the chunky raised knits.
My favourite collection came from Heewon Park which combined cobweb knits and stitching detail on chiffon. Velvet pleating and chiffon, sculpted knit panels on sleeves and embellishments in pale green, black and cream.
There were strong leather pieces from Thalia Goodwin and striking marble explosion prints from Jenna Harvey. The show ended with Shinsuke Mitsuoka's fetish inspired pieces in high shine black, massive silver, Gaga shoulders and draped chains. Fetish has been key in the students show and Nottingham offered a contemporary if not tinged with space version.
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Michelle McGreavy brought me back into the zone with her fantastic womenswear collection. It was very architectural but concentrated on curved lines and silhouettes rather than angles. Big triple layered collars and stand up circular ones looked cozy in a mix of wool and leather, while the opening semi circle panelled skirt reminded me of Bernard Chandran.
There were further menswear shows from Emily Bennion who had pleated fold front trousers that fell into well balanced peg legs as well as cropped trousers cuffed and at the knee. Layered sheer tees with skinny waistcoats or well tailored jackets, that were fitted and gathered at the waist.
My final favourite was Chima Ohajura who's white body con silhouettes were juxtaposed by crinoline cage like structures that adorned shoulders and hips they were very petal like, twisted with wires and so delicate off set by huge perspex shoes.
A solid show
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The first collection, based heavily on print had a bold palette of black and white, accented by orange. The collection, predominantly shifts with oversized perspex jewellery reminded me of Holly Fulton and the print was very graphic and angular reminded me of enlarged pixels or distorted dogtooth.
Abigail Westrup's collection should not have worked. Crochet combined with leather, biker style body suits with cut out sides crochet crop tops embellished with sequins and beads. It had an almost 'dance hall' feel but the delicate working of the raised crochet and the harshness of the leather was a genius combination.
The burgundy, cream and nude palette was soft enough to let the silhouettes do the talking.
Hoping for a break, I was presented with Elizabeth Winter's collection of padded coats. The silhouettes all bold, oversized and original were very architectural and the mix of quilting shapes emphasised the shapes. Oversized monochrome studs were added to the garments to give further 3D effect and the cone shapes and angular shoulders ensured for real spectacle. I loved the high necks and exposed orange zips that added a pop of colour to the grey/black palette.
Frezia Alnisa Zaraat was equally impressive and again, crochet popped up in the collection (perhaps a return to this style knit?)
Again Frezia mixed up traditional crochet with latex animal prints that layered both under and over crochet shirting, peeping through adding a richness and depth. I loved the shredded shirting, which seemed to be produced by a knitting of fringing technique. These were teamed with shorts or slim leg trousers, embellished with gold eyelets. Again a good palette choice of soft pint, white and popped by turquoise was superb.
My favourite collection came from Gemma Francis. In an interesting twist, she kept it punky but opted for calming music (unlike most who go for full on screams!) The collection was well constructed and the spike embellishment managed to be dauntingly beautiful. Mini dresses, shaped pvc skirts and cropped jackets all made an appearance and spiked strapping like dungarees.
On the menswear side Kim West went for a flight come cave man look. Short bomber jackets in leopard print and wet look blue. There was cropped chiffon grey leopard tees and leggings with sheer panels that revealed 'bum cheeks' can't see this catching on! There was the odd stretchy mankini with navy and animal print panels and collars carried faux fur trims. A strong collection with some key pieces, I only wished the male models would slow down!!
Print wise Anna Lee's brightly hued dresses and leggings were well executed and the shoes divine! While knitwear from Intisaar Mukadam was vibrant and had an African vibe to it. Waterfall cardigans, tube dresses and leggings in traditional fairisle techniques embellished with blocky round beads was eye catching, fun and professionally finished.
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Monday, 7 June 2010
Though I've analysed the show below this is my personal fav! There were so many great designers though I could've written this all for days!
And finally my Rochester favourite, well they do say save the best till last!
The finale of the evening who showed an outstandingly executed selection of watercolour style print, draped garments, predominently dresses. The prints in aqua, yellow, red and orange hues on a white base had a cross between Erdem and Basso and Brooke to them. The boldness of B&B with delicate watercolour style of Erdem.
The drape balance was so perfect and well judged that I was pleased to depart on such a high note.
Rochester is a real contender for holding one of the Gala winning collections.
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In the menswear corner, Chelsea Bravo kick started with my favourite menswear looks of the day. In an oatmeal, grey and navy palette Chelsea offered Grecian style drapery with a masculine twist. A jersey playsuit, jumpers with angular seams that forced garments into oversized draped pockets and cowl fronted jerseys were all strong elements yet they worked together rather than vying for attention.
Jo Graham's shrunken tailoring showed of cropped jackets and waistcoats. 3 pieces suiting and softly tailored peg leg trousers with full pleated waists.
Cherelle Reid with her 'monk' music really transported me off to another land and her menswear collection of full silk trousers and cropped jackets was well executed. I loved all the silk jersey harem styles, especially the one that had a skirt effect. The jersey was mixed with wool jackets to again give that hard / soft element. The grey and aubergine palette was bold and calming all in one.
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I nearly shuffled off home before Rochester but I'm so pleased my inner fashionista prevailed and I stuck about. With Zandra Rhodes taking the pew earlier occupied by Viv Westwood and several notable stylists littering the room despite the 8 o'clock call time, the auditorium was packed.
The show started strongly with Alexa Papavasileiou sending down soft jersey draped seperates and dresses that effortlessly mixed body con sections with softer cowl style draped panels. It was very grecian and had a real deconstructed feel to it. I loved the partial side drapes on the skirts and the dropped crotch draped trouser. The splattered cream based print melted well with the other elements and the collection felt entirely cohesive.
While not my favourite collection, the skeleton inspiration for Rebecca Watson that manifested itself into a black coat with a built in back bone was quite an incredible spectacle.
Draped silk jersey was a favourite here at Rochester and I'm still thinking about Vicky Jolly's collection of divine dresses and draped trousers. this collection really played on the idea of fitted bodices with great sweeping panels of draped jersey partially concealing the structure. The actual fabric manipulation was superb, with several items having been treated to sculptural jersey manipulation as a form of embellishment. This collection for me echoed tones of last years winner and is a really strong body of work.
Leaving the calming tones and the softness of Grecian stylings, we were catapulted back to see some Pam Hogg style jumpsuits that were extremely body-con. The fitted jumpsuits showed their detailing in the panels that divided up the garment and added detail as the panels were various hues of monochromes, pink and purple. Cropped leather jackets added a tailored element to the collection and were well executed.
The Pam Hogg style silhouette continued into Alex Oliver's collection of bodysuits that had a gorgeous, graphic print on them. In hues of baby to shocking pink and purples hues to accent a gun metal and cream base I really adored this selection. Foam (which appeared earlier elsewhere today) was used again to create structured silhouettes and block coloured panels really drew the eye to focal points. I loved the quilted inside leg panels and the ideas felt very chic. There were jersey print, body con dresses with pvc bust cups and leather jackets with the most oversized, rounded shoulders we've seen to date! As if the shoulders weren't enough, pale pink leather jackets found themselves covered in studs. A punk rock delight.
By now I'm assuming the talent must end, but Steph Eyre decided to prove me wrong. A grungy collection of khaki grey silk prints again felt very All Saints (I know I've referenced them all day). Trousers with a front tucked panel looked elegant and stylish while the wraps and shifts in the khaki on khaki print was calming but edgy.
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The Northbrook show started well with Rhea Fields offering up a kooky selection of latex evening wear. Latex dinner shirts (with stitch detail fronts) and a latex pinstripe cricket jacket were key and accented by softer chiffon pin tucked shirts, sequin fronted shirts and high waisted trousers with front pleats. It was very androgynous but the latex added an interesting twist. The nude and black colour palette worked perfectly.
Delavieje Nahvi's collection of hidden belts, graphic aztec prints and draped capes was fantastic. The vibrant blues, reds, orange, camels and browns really added a jolt of life to a rather black catwalk! I loved the asymmetric hemmed dresses and the tibetan tribal feel was really fun.
Anna Louise Moxon showed a very 'Jasper Conran AW10' style. There were layered silk petals used to created volume and shape as well as dome style appliques. Red, black and grey made up the strong palette and the silhouettes ranged from 'bodies' to soft dresses. Leather bodies with silk petal embellishment created great juxtaposition and was bang on trend.
Finally Gemma Ashe showed a vintage feel collection of antique floral prints and the most stunning violet drape fronted jacket. I loved the illustrated print and the ruched leggings. Tweed jackets had electric threads and were both modern and eclectic. Fabulous!
Sometimes its hard to get yourself excited about GFW. Ravensbourne, always one of my favourite shows proved to be more than just about clothes. Sitting next to my journalistic idol, Hillary Alexander, (who pointed out the pre-show music was the tune from tetris - now we know how she passes the time in between shows) and spotting that my favourite designer Vivienne Westwood was mere metres away quite frankly I was struggling to hold my pencil!
The show kicked off with some excellent menswear from Bobby Charles Abley, inspired by batman and all things cartoonish, prints consisted of white speech bubbles on hues of red, blue and green trousers/tees and jackets. Shoulders were BIG and the childish elements were challenged by the kinky bondage strapping.
There is definitely a rebellion happening around Ravensbourne! The number of black based, punk inspired collections for both men and women was immense. My favourites came from Kirsty Nolan who sent leather cropped jackets with incredibly detailed shoulder leather work down the runway. These were teamed with cheeky sheer chiffon trousers, and slinky catsuits that looked like melted tar they were so tight! The architectural leather work was softened by theuse of jewels to emphasis stitch detailing and silhouette.
Another rocking collection from Camilla Frydenberg again used architectural clothing to impress. Leather strapping was used to attach oversized pleated structures, like giant silk fans. Smaller pleats were used like peplums at the hips of pencil skirts. These harder structures were again given a softer edge with the use of cowl backs. The leather jackets were divine and again catsuits were used as a base to showcase the tailored pieces.
Aside from the rock chicks, big shoulders were the order of the day and colour palette ranged from super cartoonish hues to moody monochromes mixed with nude and peach pink tones that added a girlish element.
Two students, both sponsored also produced excellent collections.
Menswear graduate, Jade Rozenbroek sponsored by Asos created a really interesting yet wearable collection. Again black, white and grey were the order of the day with plenty of relaxed tailoring (a favourite being the bubble hemmed frock coat) and oversized shirting on slim fit trousers. Fur collars added the detail of the day and the tailoring filtered into shorter bomber jacket styles. I can definitely see fashionable blokes snapping these items up.
Finally save the best till last. Kiley Evans, sponsered by Swarovski I was worried that this collection would be sparkle overload, but luckily Kiley knew how to execute this in a classy way. The print (black on grey chiffon) was very abstract and graphic. It reminded me of Aminaka Wilmont, All Saints and Bolongaro Trevor. Dresses were super grungy, with drapes and pintucks creating interesting shapes, it had a very deconstructed feel that was made sleeker by the splattering of Swarovski gems. It was quite a layered collection again with asymmetric pieces and fabric mixes of leather, chiffons and silk. The sleeve panelling showed strong construction that were emphasised by the Gaga style shapes.
Overall Ravensbourbe as always has been hailed as the gemof GFW. So many collections were so strong and all these students have a strong base to go out to work or indeed further their abilities through an MA. Good Luck Ravensbourne 2010!
Sailsbury seemed to be all about duck egg blue in all tones, this colour featured heavily across the board.
Not known for its fashion, there were a handful of students that really impressed me.
Sophie Lowe mixed crochet 'hay' and suede in an elegant yet modern manner. The cutting was excellent with beautiful suede pencil skirts and shift dresses (with crochet hay bell sleeves). The balance shouldn't of worked but it did, it felt entirely serene and was impeccably styled.
I adored Angela Steads tea cup print and was disappointed that this wasn't used more than the less strong applique.
Jenna Squires menswear was one of my favourite of the day, in tones of oatmeal grey, and an almost turquoise duck egg Jenna produced a versatile and cohesive look of foam strutured jackets (with an almost raised cupping effect on the yoke, loose chunky knits and washer embellished front trousers.
Paveen Rayat showed that its not all about over styling, this simple but elegant collection highlighted all that is right with a graduate collection. A smart and solid colour palette of camels and nudes and clean yet excellently cut silhouettes and well proportion drapes showed a real skill with fabric and the ability to balance fabrics. There were good seaming details and the gunmetal accent worked perfectly with the more muted tones.
My final Sailsbury favourite was Kat Mills who produced a grunge collection with a futuristic edge. A marble style print was worked into a draped jersey front dress, which was swiftly followed by a chain metal mini. Faded dyed leggings ensured both excellent and on trend styling, these pieces wouldn't look out of place in Bolongaro Trevor. I loved the criss/cross jersey fabric manipulation and all the ruching worked excellently as the jersey looked soft to the touch and expensive. The worked leather sleeves again showed of Kat's fabric manipulation skills and is definitely my favourite of the show.
Birmingham graduate Anna Russell was one of my favourites of the show. The collection entirely in nude leather and cream chiffon was really clever and I loved the leather laser cuts that made the fabric look like perforated armour. The silhouettes ranged from full length straight skirts, to swimsuit style body suits, the harshness of the leather accented with the softness and sheerness of the chiffon. It very much reflected the underwear as outerwear trend and although the cuts often weren't as streamlined as leather commands, the conceptual ideas were solid.
My favourite prints came from Jessica Day, again featured the trend of the day (cartoons) and I fell in love with the robot tights and the orange lego brick bustier with built in robot, was again conceptually genius. The final outfit was a full tulle skirt, with a cropped marching band jacket, with exaggerated shoulders and the most gigantic fur, hat. Toy-tastic.
Other collections to note came from Emily McNally who's crazy country, eclectic collection of mismatched prints was very 'of the moment' and mixed gold lame with ditzy floral with ease. I particularly loved the cream, rose print, chiffon blouse (divine) and the ruffle back knickers.
My favourite of the bunch was Ling Luu whose block coloured collection was fantastic, swing leather jackets with hoods (in both orange and blue) and draped front jackets in violet, teamed with peg legs, showed strong cutting and styling skills its was very visually effective.
Finally piece to remember (and a sure fire hit) were Hannah Newman's cosmetic surgery leggings, in white, with black 'cut here' style line drawings, fab!
Alex Dubell and Hana Calvert were my Salford heroes today.
Alex sparked my interest with his blue/black architectural collection with cage like strip structures on the shoulders and plenty of lurex sparkle. The body suits were used simply as a vehicle to show off the structures that almost consumed the models. I loved the final neck piece that reminded me of chandelier structures and whale bones. It was a very clever and conceptual offering.
Hanna Calvert made a construct/deconstructed collection of panelled skirts with layers and zips allowing for multi use and endless adaptation of the garments. By block colouring the panels in monochrome the panels were easily identifiable yet cohesive. Silk, jersey and leather combined creating strong and bold silhouettes. I loved the quilted panels and the draped dresses with structured sections were reminiscent of last years winner.
The other collection to note came from Emma Liddell who worked perspex and plastic casing in with grey marl jersey to give a bit of sports luxe. Though it wasn't my favourite I like the adventure and challenge of the materials.
A strong show from one of the smaller fashion schools.
There were several solid design talents at Kingston and its been impossible to pick favourites!
Always a strong show I found myself writing at twice the normal speed.
Naomi Stahl's gun metal playsuit in silk, with a full trouser and soft top made me sit up straight. The front wrap trousers that fell into a soft but well structered peg leg in dove grey were heaven and the leather cropped jackets with their military details were another strong element to the collection and again mixed hard and soft a key element in todays collections. The cutting and construction were really strong too!
David Stoneman-Merret, my favourite of Kingston's menswear designers showed an array of patterned knits embellished with sequins. Long jumpers over slim leg trousers and oversized cardigand. Teamed with harem pants were totally du jour and I so hope David's knitted playsuit catches on!
Sophie Clark's elegant and calming collection of stormy prints, soft draped jackets and sheer asymmetric shirting (short at front - long at back) teamed with loose cut trousers in silver and cream hues sent me into total relaxation. I loved the draped, soft tailored tux jackets too.
Angharad Probert signalled a sudden roll of talent. Though the whole 'hair thing' has been done, I liked Probert's take on it all. Cocoon fur coats (couldn't tell if it was faux or not), horse hair style epulates and leather front pintucks on a jacket again presented us with a strong/soft collection of fabrics.
Shareen Qin's menswear of pleated trench coats that featured the SS10 Burberry shoulder (a popular choice in all shows today) had chic military elements and I especially loved the grandad collar jacket with gold buttons. Pleated panels in the side seams of trousers provided a new and varied silhouette.
Nicole Bradshaw carried on the winning streak with a fur draped coat (short to long) and a white latex jacket with camel coloured strapping. My favourite was the peachy coloured tux, with a softly tailored jacket and wide leg trousers. Very androgynous only girlied up by the tone.
Sophie Hudspith meant that I had to keep jotting (5 solid collections in a row now!) I loved the soft seperates, coffee coloured harem pants. Circle cut jackets (so sleeves were big) and bodies drapey and full. The silk jersey came in hues of coffee, camel, gold, grey and dusky pin and the grey chiffon shirt with fully draped shoulders was divine.
Other pieces to note were Harriet De Roeper's bug prints and appliques. The beetle, made huge by Mulberry a few seasons ago seemed to have inspired Harriet's white trouser suit covered in black bugs and long chiffon shirts embellished with velvet beetles. I loved the stripe front trousers that saw interspersed stripes of velvet and chiffon.
An extremely strong show.
There were three students from Lasalle at the international show that stood out for me. Firstly Vicole Lang who produced Gareth Pugh like drama with black moulded Balenciaga style hips that were sculpted into feather like structures. It was exceptionally cut and a real dramatic piece. I also loved the leather jacket. It looked so expensive I could practically smell it from my seat!
Li Sang created a 'rebellious toy' collection. While the colours were poppy, pretty and doll like (hues of yellow, green, white) the dresses were body con with plenty of angular and architectural panelling. Peplum side panels jutted out while sculptured spikes popped out all over the show!
Lidya Chrisjen's cut away jersey leggings with twists on the fabric were really fabulous and the rope jumpsuit was creative and challenging. There were also bustiers made of rope and the marble tie dye print jerseys, hoisted and held into position by ropes made for a cohesive and interesting look. Taupe, orange, pink and khaki made for a strong palette.
St. Petersberg student Anna Sergunova caught my eye for the fetish overtones in her collection. Fetish has been popular today, but I particularly liked her execution of her caplets with front buckles and the piping details were very reminiscent of armour. The heel-less shoes were very Pam Hogg and the rounded shoulders again gave the illusion oyf strength and power, another popular silhouette today.
Alena Tikhonova produced my favourite menswear collection that featured tones of leather, including a full on leather biker jacket with all the seam and zip details. The panelling details that were highlighted through monochrome colour blocking which really showed off the construction techniques.
The AFI graduates were pretty strong but especially in their conceptual and creative ability. Perspex, pvc and plastics were the order of the day with Floor Kolen creating plastic shorts, shoulder moulded pieces and even a prosthetic style hand. It was kind of creepy in a cool way, obscenely beautiful. Again the hard/soft trend reared its head and perspex casing created fit on a draped cowl shift, while a chiffon polka dot dress was subjected to hoops that created other worldly structure. Ruffle details also softened the plastics stiffness.
Roya Itesam created soft separates. Nude, white and brown were the main palette that were incredibly relaxing and soft. There were chiffon jumpsuits, satin trims on sheer garments and side slash trousers (that I hope weren't inspired by Cheryl Cole). Tailored jackets with draped and pleated fronts saw a harsher element to the look by using leather again mixing soft and structured together. The final piece, a wool stitch detail chiffon catsuit was extremely well received and very clever indeed.
Menswear wise, I was fond of Lana Wijnand's collection that featured soft, loose shirting, Balenciaga style shoulders and collarless jackets. Draped fronted shirts ensured fullness and weight creating an unusal silhouette. Trousers found equal volume in their peg legs. Nude and khaki again ensured for strong but soft palette, accented by a piece of red knitwear that was very striking if not a little out of place.
The German university students kicked off the international show and it seemed all had the requirement of men and women's wear in their final collection. The main issue however of letting the European's in, is that quite frankly their students kicked many of ours to the curb. The strength in the cutting and construction as well as the ability to mix creartive and wearable was incredible.
There were three students who stood out for me.
Denise Pache menswear was far stronger than the women's wear, however I equally thought that when the models stood together the collection was incredibly cohesive. The print was a marble effect of cream base with toffee toned overlay and was both grunge and serenity in one. Excellently thought out and styled menswear featured exaggerated shoulders, a Burberry shouldered trench and cropped trousers. The jackets were well cut and tailored to perfection. While the women's wear worked on the same palette the more casual feel of dungarees and denim style pieces made for an All Saints kind of look.
Wolfgang Jarnach again showed a storng collection of both men and women's wear. It was all very dramatic and theatrical with the women's wear being intensely androgynous. Black, white and electric navy was a dark and moody choice but worked well with the Balenciaga hips and velvet corsets. For menswear long shirts were shown over slim lef trousers and there were several dinner jacket, utilising black and white panel detailing. There was even a skirt with dip dye white and blues.
Alexander Fenzl's 50's style selection was 99 percent menswear and I loved the checker board cowl neck piece and the cheque black and white shirting. Accented with yellow leather bomber jackets and sports jackets in navy hues, this collection was both interesting, well constructed and commercially viable.
I missed the name of this university but it was only menswear grad Dominic Knecht that I loved anyway!
Electric blues, red, yellow and white the colour palette reminded me of lego. The collection was about allowing fashion to construct itself and this was demonstrated through massive lengths of wool wrapped colourfully together to create tops. There was also an eccentric puffa jacket and dip dyed soft tees as well as drawstring jackets. Both fun and wacky!