On a more positive note, Israeli born Azrouël presented a well edited and beautifully styled show. Friday 13th was a fitting backdrop for the collection which channelled a strong reference to 90s Goth showcasing a very black heavy colour palette. Models fiercely strode down the runway in fashionista’s favourite, wet look leggings, witchy black capes, tough looking straight hair and hard black eyeliner with lashings of mascara. The collection definitely marked a refreshing trip ‘black to black’ and a hard aesthetic compared to spring/summer’s soft femininity. The collection turned last season’s playful girliness on its head, presenting a dark romance.
Despite his interest in black this season, Azrouël proved that when he does colour, he does it well. A particular favourite was the red and black print bod con dress with a black belt that has already found its home at the top of my autumn/winter hit list!
Azrouël ‘s strength lies in his ability to create clothes that women want to wear, and more importantly clothes that makes them feel sexy. “The women I dress must be confident in their body” said the designer, who cites his main influence as his desire to make women feel and look sophisticated.
He is known for presenting strong women through his exploration of architecture. He does this best in the angular royal blue bod-con dress with black vertical panelling from the neckline. The sharp, clean line of the shoulders screams ‘I need to be taken seriously’, presenting a modern interpretation of 80s power dressing. This echoed the strong shoulders we saw in the couture shows.
I loved the way he played with proportions. Skinny leg trousers were teamed with voluminous jackets creating interesting silhouettes.
The collection is classic yet maintains a modern freshness that Azrouël understands oh so well. This collection proves Azrouël to be a designer that does not follow trends, choosing rather to hone in on his influences each season to deliver all of the basics that a woman wants.