Roving Reporter: Michael Kors

Is it me or are the 80s having a comeback for fall? Michael Kors - set to open his first UK store in London this April - showed a strong and somewhat interesting collection today in New York.

The audience was lulled into a false sense of security with full on black looks like a beautiful asymmetric knee length dress worn by Raquel Zimmerman. I say false sense of security because after a few head to toe black looks came a fur neon jacket with a knee length dress and belt to match. Backstage Kors said: “Listen, I don’t know if nature-inspired florals are a really urban thing. So when you think about fall colour in New York — and this is really my homage to New York; it’s a very New York show — you think of neon. I love just the pop of neon with all these neutrals.”

The colour caught on to the sense of optimism that was evident at shows like Matthew Williamson; as Galliano rightly put it: ‘It’s an economic crisis, not a creative one’. I’m unsure about the use of neon in such a strong collection of neutral pieces but Kors definitely used it to make a statement to the current issue about the economy’s effect on the fashion industry.  Kors is known for being an aspirational brand. His classic campaigns showing the lovely Carmen Kass on route to her private plane are a case in point.  With the economic slump and the pressure on designers to have more competitive price points, I was interested to see how Kors would react. This season he definitely exceeded my expectations.

Kors’ real strength this season lied in his tailoring. Although he denied being influenced by the 80s, there were definitely strong 80s influences in the tailoring. Trouser suits were reminiscent of 80s power dressing and the Iron Lady herself, Margaret Thatcher. Okay, maybe not Margaret Thatcher but you get the idea. Structured sleeveless jackets teamed with sleek cigarette pants presented a woman that means business. The make-up was bang on this season matching the rebellious, powerful woman reflected in the tailoring and structure of the clothes.

Tan, beige and cream can often be boring for the fall shows and be too predictable. I mean, it’s like florals for spring, hardly the most innovative concept. However, Kors managed to exceed our expectation with his experimentation with this colour palette. The corseted strapless knee grazing belted dress is an example of Kors ability to make these predictable, and often boring colours, interesting yet classic at the same time.

The collection definitely compounded on some of the trends that have been circulating over the last few days.