Tuesday, 17 February 2009

Roving Reporter: Marc Jacobs

If everyone was trying to be subtle about their love of the 80s for A/W09, then no one sent Marc Jacobs the memo...

As with so many others this week, strong shoulders were a huge trend at the Jacobs show. Whilst still keeping the uniform grey tones, miniskirts and fur show that these weren't just any school girls, but the glam, upstate New York ones. If they were to add a British kid to Gossip Girl, she would so dress like this.

Whilst everyone is concentrating on cut-outs this week, we were pleased to see a more developed twist at Marc's show. Here fabric has been slashed away from the top, dark layer (note the bandage-style silhouette), to reveal a more spicy and invigorating hot-pink print peeking through.

Again, this was an extremely 80s disco look, from the cutest shoots (shoe-boots), to the Pat Butcher earrings. Take Note: asymmetric dresses have been big this week too, but more interestingly instead of the one-shoulder look of past seasons, we are seeing a shift towards one-sleeved dresses.

High-waisted, pinstripe peg legs; Unlike Donna Karan, this is not classic workwear. Jacobs does a retro twist to his city slicker looks and we love it. While Karan is catering to the tough city ladies of New York, Jacobs is hanging out with the cool kids on the block - dressing women with a sense of style and who love humour and ironic twists to their wardrobes. This origami top is totally outrageous and the soft, golden meringue peaks are very brassy. Remember, Marc Jacobs is not for the shy and retiring!

I couldn't help but chuckle at this look. Its so Bowie/Ziggy Stardust. Strong shoulders, peplum on the waist, crazy psychedelic prints. This is the 80s reincarnated and I love it. Jackets with structured shoulders will be huge this A/W. Check out the cut out detailing on the neckline here: two trends in one. Though the model looks like she has a mullet, she is redeemed by the peg leg, ankle ruche-effect jeans. Now that is a style I can see being championed on the high street.

I've come over all giddy on this one. I LOVE gold and this dress is now my fantasy piece for next season. Already a big trend this summer, metallic (influenced by a new 80s revival) is set to still be huge by fall. The styling on this number is perfect. While the gold full-tucked skirt and structured shoulder is fairly dramatic, pairing with a simple belt and tights has made this outrageous piece pretty wearable. In fact I would dress it down with a black polo and cute, suede, shoe boots. Goodness me, I want that dress!

Cocoon coats started to put in an appearance this week, seeing a revival of the much loved winter silhouette. While cool and cozy, this style must be cinched with a belt to avoid looking like a marshmallow penguin. I adore this fur trim and the polka-dot weave is incredibly retro.

Colours at Jacobs were pretty loud and proud. There was a little bit of everything with Marc showing one of the biggest collections so far this week, with around 60 looks total. From canary-crazy yellow, bubblegum pink, forest greens and blazing blue, there was a total rainbow. This was all topped off with accents of metallic tones and held together by the uniform black opaque tights.

Pea-green coat anyone? Bright coats have been really huge for the past couple of seasons. These back-to-basic brights are a sure winner. I love the colour combo here and look forward to wrapping up in cheerful wool trenches and soft scarves to banish the miserable weather.

While trouser legs remained pegged, skirts yet again appeared to be heading back towards last summer's skater style. Short and flirty, these ditsy-print florals were bright and cheery. It's also important to remember that while these appear to be heavy silks or satins, you can keep wearing your summer florals into fall by teaming with thick tights. (Just a little credit-crunch tip for you)

I'm giggling quietly to myself at the state of these poor models locks. If 80s is coming back (and I think it's pretty obvious that it is) then I'm hoping we can leave the Boy George haircuts at home. Another strong and playful jacket silhouette. Loved the angular cut. It had quite a futuristic sports feel to it, which went well with the foil-esque skirt. Again long gloves - seriously the writing is on the wall, fashion folk!

Perfect in pink, this showed a move away from the earlier outerwear styles and oversized piece to total 80s body-con. This shift-style dress looks almost molded around the bust and waist. Very Lady GaGa. Interestingly styled with the in-your-face scarf.

The schoolgirl look began to return towards the end, with the black neck tie once more in the styling. This particular look was a lot darker and more gothic than the shiny, pop-80s look of earlier pieces. Again strong shoulders and flashes of electrifying turquoise showed versatility and fun in a kooky collection.

Finally! Loved this last piece of monochrome magic. Puff-ball, square shoulders, big hair and black lips...off to the school disco then?

1 comment:

  1. The black and pink slash dress is my favourite!


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