Sunday, 15 February 2009

Roving Reporter: Koi Suwannagate

Last season Koi Suwannagate teamed up with fashionista-favourite Phillip Lim to create some of the most show-stopping dresses. If you haven't seen them, then shame on you! Koi decorated Lim's dresses with the most intricate floral applique so the models looked like walking gardens. It was truly divine.

This season, Koi alone created a much sleeker silhouette and a far more commercially viable selection of looks. The collection concentrated on easy-to-wear separates. Trousers were uber-tailored, super skinny-cut, indie-cool ankle skimmers. They were presented in a palette of white (shiny), grey, burnt orange (yes ladies, burnt orange!) and of course black.

The rest of the collection concentrated on knitwear and was a clever concoction of deconstructed pieces. Coloured and textured panels merged to create incredibly wearable items with great detail and workmanship. Perfect for any credit-crunch purchase.

We oooohed over the oversized, belted cardigan, which is top of my list for A/W buys. If we are going to continue living in one big blizzard, well I'm going to retreat into that sumptuous cardigan. It draped oh so very beautifully.

Following the oooohs, we started to ahhhhhh. Koi has taken her now infamous floral applique from her Lim collaboration (seriously, shame on you if you still haven't Googled it) and translated it for knit.

This resulted in a delicate cardigan with floral, cropped sleeves and a cute, creamy, sleeveless cardigan with dispersed floral applique and matching arm-warmers. Truly seventh heaven, and if you buy but one piece next season, it should be one of these beauties!

Again there was a tad hint at the 80s, as the red jacket/cardigan in the collection sported strong shoulders. This little number mixed knit techniques to produce yet another classic wardrobe staple that is unusual enough to avoid dating.

Finally, the one dress that crept into the collection was truly dramatic, and somewhat out of character with the rest of the looks. But as you should know, I am all about the drama. So this gothic, floor-length, lace, bat-wing sleeve number truly stopped me in my tracks. Shown here with a flesh-coloured body underneath, this is definitely not for the faint hearted. But with a black silk slip underneath and some towering heels, I'm thinking that the LBD has a new rival in town.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have some reservation lists to put my name on.

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