Saturday, 28 February 2009

Roving Reporter : Gianfranco Ferre

I first saw Ferre show a number of years ago, at a kind of 'retrospective' fashion show at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
It was a total fashion fest and one of the greatest shows I have ever seen. With not long since we lost one of our greatest fashion masters, this is only the second collection from the new Creative Directors of the brand 'Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi'.
Sadly and thankfully Ferre is not around to see that the parent company of the brand, IT Holding SpA, this week declared bankruptcy, so whether this collection ever gets to see the stores is still marked with a '?'
This is desperately sad as the collection was beautiful. It had intense detailing, gorgeous fabrics and stunning tailoring. It was so hard hitting and trend led, yet somehow was a step above the others.

This stunning jumper, was intensely worked on. So textured, this metallic grey, belted  at the waist was a real show stopper. Check out the on trend shoulders, so eighties!

This texture was then worked into a series of other items, including this snow white, speckled coat/dress. Again belted, it just makes me sad, thinking that this collection maybe the very last. Where is LVMH to buy out!

The new tux is here! Sleek, skinny trousers worn with the most gorgeously, draped jacket, incredible shoulders and beautiful lapels. WOW!

I love this playful outfit. Slightly out of character with the rest of the collection which is so super sophisticated! The bow detail is cute, while the shiny, peg legs are definitely only for the young and totally trendy. It was quite Charles Anastase. 

Origami, fluted, draped, skirt, 'How Very Dior'.
Gunmetal grey / silver is a huge A/W 09 look. Yay!

Love everything about this look! Literally everything. The mix of blue / green tones is perfection in mismatch! Draped pencil skirts are everywhere right now, so how can that be wrong, and the velvet, tux style jacket is soooooo beautiful! Im so bored of the word eighties, by my goodness how hardcore is that look!

Naturally, there was the maxi dress. This is so well cut, great side panels too! Extremely sleek in its cut, but the bias line on it makes it super flattering.

I have to go away and cry now, at the thought that this may never reach fashionistas! :-(

Roving Reporter : Jil Sander

Jil Sander collections are never shell shocking. There is never any print, or anything over complicated about the pieces, having said that the silhouettes and palette are always versatile and extremely well cut.
The palette, again was extremely muted. Cream, grey, white, and black were accented with flickers of banana yellow, vibrant orange and red.
The collection consisted of brilliant women's wear basics; shifts, jackets, coats and tailored trousers. The whole collection (as always) was very minimalist.

Long dress coats, over shifts are like the modern day twin set to Sander. Flat shoes, styled the look and also showed that the collection was not aimed at the frivolous, but the more grown up, shopper. This is very much a collection for sophisticated ladies.

Colour alert! What Sander lacks in crazy silhouettes, he makes up for in the splashes of vibrant colour. This neon orange, shift is gorgeous! 

Sander, may not be setting the world alight with origami style shapes like many of his contemporaries, but no one can argue with his cutting when it comes to the details. Sander created the most incredible curved collar details that allowed hints of coloured lining to show through. It was so brilliantly done, subtle, but showed how well thought out, each and every piece is.

Cocoon coats! I told you, they are everywhere! Check out the beautiful panel detailing and slightly curved front. Plus, it's leather! Beautiful! 

This curved skirt, sits well with the accentuated hip style that is still sweeping through designers ranges for the coming season. I great LBD that would look perfect for a party, jazzed up with OTT, statement jewels!
Love the slightly molded sleeves.

This was probably the most loose cut pair of trousers I have seen so far in Milan. I love this slightly more relaxed shape. Very Sander in style. Again well cut for Sander's main market. 
Like at Giorgio Armani suiting colour was mixed. Is this to make people buy into items that can be  more easily mixed, showing people that we can do away with matchy-matchy suiting?! I think it is definitely the way to go!
Very masculine in cut, the jacket again has structured shoulders, which we know is talk of the town.

There were some prettier, pieces too. There were both short LBD's, mainly asymmetric shifts, as well as a selection of gorgeous, full, length ones. This one mixed fabulous monochrome panels to create a sleek and simple gown that was both striking and elegant. 

A brilliant, typical, Sander collection. Full of wearable pieces, for the correct target market. 

Roving Reporter : Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey is the man that resurrected, resuscitated Burberry if you like. This season, showing Milan (Come Back Home!) Burberry Prorsum showed a beautifully tailored collection in a monochrome palette. Flashes of colour were offered in the form of bronzed creams, nude and brown tones that really lightened the collection.
BP really does do great basics and this season was no different. 
There was some great suiting, incredibly androgynous and slick in its fit (very Milan).
Straight leg trousers were definitely the look of the collection, with longer line 'man style' jackets.
I love this speckled wool. There has been a lot of block colour in suiting this season, but very little in terms of textured colour, so though this may be off trend, Burberry is ensuring that there is real choice for their solid base of clientele. 

Over sized outerwear was quite standard at the Burberry P show, love this metallic weave coat, with great double breast button detailing. Personally though I would go for a waist belt to give a bit more definition, especially if you have curves, otherwise you will drown in this one!
Great patch pockets though, maybe we can do away with costly handbags and just pour our money into practical coats?!

Is it a cape? Is it a coat? Does anyone know?! Where are her hands?! Do I love this coat/cape any less? NO, I LOVE it! look at all the gorgeous fur! Sigh, I want that one!

Dress coat, ooooooh. 
Tribal / Futuristic print : CHECK
Structured Shoulders : CHECK
Monochrome : CHECK
So much on trend, this is a beautifully designed and perfected basic. Again, team with a patent black belt (skinny or thick - oh the choice!) for maximum impact.

Loving these floppy, fisherman hats! So not a trend normal women can get away with, but still definitely something I 'heart'.
Love the trouser shape, its having an identity crisis. Part straight, part, skinny, almost debating converting to a peg. Either way it is championing the 'front' pleat look of A/W 09. The jacket is very masculine. It definitely looks like a 'borrowed from my boyfriend' number. Oh so chic and versatile.

LBD with a twist!
Love the vintage, 'antique,' print. I know I think fashion is a work of art, but now it truly is. Sculptured bodices were pretty much everywhere at LFW, so BP is fitting right in with the London look here. Great detailing, tres versatile.

TREND ALERT! There was soooo much velvet on the LFW catwalks (though for the ladies not for the chaps). However I am totally loving this velvet tux for the Burberry P boys! This green/black tone is gorgeous!

Firstly, look at how tiny this models legs are! She looks like she is walking on twigs!!! Now that I have recovered from that! Check out the perfect cover up for a night out! (no not round SoHo, posh parties only please!)
Burberry do the best, classic, macs in the whole wide world, so I am loving this beautiful, black coat. More entrancing however is this fabulous, coffee toned party frock. Fab antique print and full fifties skirt. Superb!

Do love this new BP collection, Bailey we love you!!!!

Roving Reporter : Moschino Cheap and Chic

Moschino Cheap and Chic (MCC - as the cool kids call it - they don't it's just the lazy ones actually) is one of my favourite 'diffusion' ranges; mainly because while it is Chic, it is anything but Cheap!
This super girly label presented a gorgeous collection of flirty dresses, cocoon coats, frills and sleek tailoring.

There was plenty of flashes of hot pink, no more beautiful than this sleek shift, detailed in ruffles. Super feminine and doll like, I adore this slightly disheveled, undone belt thing going on. So random, but kind of cool!

Bronzed, metallic black, great alternative to the LBD, floor length ruffles, perfect, party wear! 

Great detailing is key to draw clients in for the coming seasons. This fab little black jacket with asymmetric ruffle detailing. Ruffles were obviously the key to the collection, as beautiful sheer (to the point of obscene) blouses had delicately ruffled cuffs.
Check out the gold, calf skimming trousers, again note the front, fold, detailing.
Mickey Mouse ears are naturally the most sophisticated thing to be wearing next season, but until we can pluck up the courage, I think I'll be championing these beautiful blouses instead (with a cami underneath obviously).

Cocoon coats have been super popular in A/W collections, in all the fashion cities, so this definitely is a trend to buy into. I love this jeweled yellow one, with lovely collar detail. Break it up with a wide, patent, black belt!

There have been tones of prints at LFW, this very much reminds me of the Tempest prints. Part paint splash, part cosmic explosion (read: futurism), part tribal feel. Love it based on black though, very grown up and delicate. Skirt suit again, showing that its time to relegate the trousers, and bring back the pencil skirt. Do note the bulky jacket with a waist belt.

It is such a girly collection and in fact a feminine friendly label. So I love this bow front dress. A slight twist on some Parisian Couture shown at Stephane Rolland! Lush!

Roving Reporter : Missoni

Missoni is a total institution, producing some of the best knitwear, A/W truly is her season.
Like with many designers this season, Missoni went for a rather subdued colour palette, with flashes of dulled down colour, even the turquoise and orange tones felt lacking in warmth. 
The grey and brown and cream tones were so cold, but the garments themselves were so rich and beautiful themselves that they complimented the colours well.

There were some incredibly inventive knitted dresses, with 'Missoni' style patterns, layered with patterned tights, knitted leggings and trousers. There were over sized scarves, that draped into 'hoods' and beautiful hooded capes and coats with fur trims. 
I simply adored the cropped sleeved, wool jackets and the over-sized textured knits. 

The styling was spot on with cut off chunky gloves and knee high socks. Missoni girls are definitely going to be keeping warm this winter in their fur hats! Perfect for those chilly Milanese months!

Roving Reporter : Giorgio Armani

Ask anyone and they will tell you that Armani makes exquisite suiting. This season is no different. Beautiful tailored jackets were teamed with a host of skirts and trousers that would make perfect work wear (for those still in high powered enough jobs to require such items). 

The colour palette of black, soft grey, metallic flashes and navy was extremely grown up and sophisticated and here at fash-pack we simply adored the little beret and patent glove styling.

Firstly, check out those eighties shoulders, it is definitely time to raid the haberdashery at JL!
Love the mix of tonal suiting, the mismatch of grey is perfect! 
One button is tres chic! and I am itching to get a pair of those booties!

Two models at a time! Fantastic, twice as much fashion! Love the blue and black together. Sophisticated pencil skirts, wrap jackets and great collars. With many designers choosing to concentrate on party wear to beat the crunch, Armani chose to do what he does best, beautiful suiting. 

This was definitely a serious collection. No frivolity here! Slight military overtones in styling and design, this paneled detailing is gorgeous. Again mixing the colour tones within one look is perfect and practical.

Cinched waists and accentuated hips, show off fantastic hour glass figures. Like at D&G, front crease, slim cut trousers are taking over and banishing those hard to wear peg legs.

Armani hadn't banished party wear all together, as these ladies show above, asymmetric frocks are still in for A/W 09 and the metallic trend is definitely set to continue. 

Roving Reporter : D & G

For S/S 09 D & G have been championing all day pyjama wearing. Now my friends will tell you that I am generally up for a full day of PJ wearing, but normally and quite frankly thankfully only in my house! So I have to admit for S/S I kind of lost faith in my favourite design duo. However I'm pleased to say that this delightful duo are back to top form with a beautiful collection that has a fabulous vintage feel to it.

The colour palette is fantastically muted in monochrome tones, teamed with nude shades and accented with a black/blue, yellow and berry coloured highlights (that sounds like a bad dye job).
The antique, nude style tones gave the whole collection a vintage feel, accentuated by the 'poster/painting' like prints used within the collection. There was also Rococo style wallpaper prints that really had a beautifully, classic, French feel.
Silhouettes reflected a host of influences. Most notably was the resurrection of the military vibe, often popular in A/W collections, was barely touched upon at London or New York, but here jackets were treated to military button and stitch detailing and up-to-date versions of one of my favourite and most impractical looks, 'the cape'.

D & G presented a host of cape styles in nude tones that ranged from block colour, fur and leopard print. Left loose, these beautiful pieces of outerwear are so vintage looking that they will be trend defying and I am definitely in love!

Trouser shapes on the other hand were far more sleek. Straight cuts, front creases, this was an extremely chic and tailored look for the modern woman. A nice change from the peg leg and harem shape that seems to be plaguing the catwalk elsewhere.

Accentuated hips are everywhere still and it seems D&G are determined to stick to this space age style trend, set about by Balenciaga too! There were bodiced dresses that went into extremely sculptured skirt shapes, that were often very mini in length, which fits with the D&G young, hip, Li-Lo clientele.

My pick of the bunch though, was a multi tiered, ballerina style skirt in white tulle that skimmed the models ankle, teamed nonchalantly with a printed tee, black belt and pale pink cape. That look to me epitomises the D&G girl, young, playful, fun and into making a fashion look seem easy. After all D&G are just brill!

Roving Reporter : Alberta Ferretti

There has been much talk about the cut in the number of designers showing at Milan this season, with Cavalli's diffusion 'Just Cavalli' show being cancelled. 
But Alberta Ferretti shown through the storm with a jewel bright collection of beautiful separates, stunning tailoring and fantastic dresses. 

While London is known for its breeding of new designers and creative talent, Milan is known for its big names and beautifully chic clothing, AF certainly lived up to this.

The palette combined incredible tones of orange, deep turquoise, vibrant purple, pink, nude and monochrome hues. It was show stopping and fun, just what we need when everything else is turning to mud around us! It is a known fact, if you want to lift your mood, brighten up and AF is doing just that.
The collection concentrated predominantly on dresses, which has been seen as the key thing for A/W (probably because people will spend money on a whole outfit!) There were lots of shift cuts and knee skimming versions showing a day to night look, again a great credit crunch idea.

I loved the coats too. Beautifully grown up, tailored shapes, trench and cocoon styles. Waist belts were a must to keep the slightly over sized shapes (especially shoulders) in check!

Skirt suits far out-weighed the trousers, again showing a move away from androgyny, in fact perhaps the economic crisis will make us re-embrace our femininity! I'm certainly up for more girly shapes!

My final love was the embellishment, something AF always does particularly well.
I loved the all out feathered pieces, as well as those that seemed to echo the slightly tribal vibe that we same going on in London. 

It seems that Milan agree, if we are going to buy expensive pieces they have to be things we will love forever and ever and this collection is definitely one of those!