Wednesday, 24 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . Closing Parties

It's weird how I wait for a whole six months for fashion week and then it's all over in the blink of an eye! I can't believe how many shows I've covered, all the trends I've written about and the very long mental shopping list I have made. I can barely take the cold this winter, yet alone contemplate thinking about battling the ice and snow again so soon!

I headed out to the Tim Soar party at Kettners in Soho. It's a really cool venue. There is a restaurant downstairs and the next floor up is rather grand and the perfect location for a chic fellow like Soar to hold his bash. 
The free drinks were flowing and Tim Soar was on the decks mixing it up. No end to this mans talent, as his PR told me that Tim is a regular at Soho House events and has mixed tunes for the likes of Gucci! Not just a fashion genius but a nifty DJ too.

I had my regular tipple of vodka cranberry and when the drinks ran out, my very gorgeous friend Emma turned up with her flat mate Angie. With Emma being a designer and Angie an actress, let's face it they are obv skint and Angie with her wit, charm and good looks managed to get some 'non fashion' type to buy them drinks. Watching this from the couch, I sidled over and introduced myself procuring a drink in the process. Make notes people, this is how we role.

The Soar party was great and I got to meet up with loads of people I hadn't seen in ages and the music, obv was great! 
Though I'd sworn myself to an early night, I found myself being tempted to go to the JW Anderson party at MOVIDA (those of you who read regularly know it is one of my least favourite haunts).
We left Tim's bash and headed to Argyll Street. Joining the Anderson queue as usual we were met by the regular snooty door girls. Who pretty much blanked us. Phoned my contact on the inside only to find that they hadn't even bothered, so we morphed into them and threw down the gauntlet to the door chick.
SPOTTED AT MOVIDA: Alex Prinz (D1 model), Fashion 156 crew, Katie Eary and co.

It worked and we were whisked in, not asked for ID and sent down to party. Haven't scrummed for the cloakroom and hustled for the free drink, we busted some moves to the morning before heading home, before realising that fashion week is indeed over for another 6 months.

Fashion Week I love you, come back soon!

Editor @ Large . . Basso and Brooke Party

Well, as it was the last day for LFW (womenswear) we decided that it was definitely not going to be an early one. We headed to China Whites for the Basso and Brooke party and being press we got to skip the queue, it is after all one of our few perks.

I have to say, pretty impressed with China Whites decor and the fact that there is finally a club with phone reception! 
As half our party had got in earlier, they had grabbed us a table right by the DJ booth and had several slightly strong Mojitos waiting. 
As free drinkies only run for a limited period we headed to the bar to get a second round in, just incase.
I hate fashion queueing it feels I've mainly stood in scrums this week and by the time we got to the bar the complimentary vodka was gone and we ended up with a surprisingly tasty gin cocktails. 
We managed to snag a VIP wrist band and free drinks for the rest of the night was guaranteed. 

I haven't had such a good night in ages, the DJ was amazing! And we danced till about 1.30am by which point we literally couldn't stand any longer.

Fashion Week is almost done! Sob!

Editor @ Large . . . William Tempest

Everyone knows that the Tempest show is a fashion week must and this season was no different. With several celebs on front row, Tempest is fast making a name for himself on the red carpet and quite rightly so!
For AW10 Tempest continued with his origami style dresses that have become such a signature look. Again, mainly just above knee length, William treated us to one shoulder versions, off the shoulder and bare shoulders, all in his unique style of sleek fitted back and twisted, folded fronts.
Though the collection was mainly black there were some flashes of gun-metal, navy and aqua that added a little extra pow and warmth to the collection.
I loved the striped, panelled, off the shoulder frock that had all the cult makings of Herve Leger and is a definite red carpet contender. Sitting up on second row, it was nice to be able to see the attention to detail that goes into William's work. Effortless maxis are actually entirely boned underneath creating the perfect maxi.
I loved how Tempest is mixing it up on the fabric front and silks were joined to leathers and a suede like finishes to create plenty of texture. William's models always look so fierce and warrior like and Tempest is fast become the dress master. I'd love to see another Tempest print (as I thought his storm print on season one was stunning) but as I left to run to my next show, I was left thoroughly impressed. Tempest, coming to a red carpet near you!
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Editor @ Large . . . Alice Palmer

Front row at Alice Palmer, refuelled by coffee, I was transported back to punkier days. The collection (a host of knitted garments) was very much punk inspired and reminded me of early Westwood. Palmer hit the right balance between experimental and commercial and worked metal studs (both flat and spiky) into knit dresses, jumpers and capes. Alice had evidently spent a lot of time working on manipulating and experimenting with her knit techniques, garments had knitted 'spikes' albeit soft peak ones worked into the garment so that they formed part of the silhouette rather than 'add on's'. I was enthralled by Palmers ability to balance the weight of the metal studs against the pull of the knit, as everything seemed to drape and full just so, it seems gravity was on her side. Hems were asymmetrical, as were most of her pieces. The colour palette, muted for AW10, was mainly black lifted. By lurex silver threads and splashes of white. I loved Palmer's capes and while the one armed ones were slightly impractical, they were fun and cosy. My favourite piece was a silver and black jumpsuit that was both quirky and extremely wearable, an important mix for any fashion week show. A totally new offering from Palmer and I'll definitely be back for more. 

Tuesday, 23 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . Amanda Wakeley

Well it seems that they really do save the best till last. The final day of fashion week has really so far put the other days in the shade.
Wakeley hit every trend going but did so in a way the totally defies edge. While each piece seemed 'of the moment' it also was a collection of totally timeless classic items.
The collection started with layered jackets, capes and tailored pencil skirts in a host of grey tones. Rich wools draped into asymmetric jackets with exposed zips and oversized pockets.
Lapels and collars were all oversized and hung loose. While zips remained exposed. Wool soon became leather and chocolate leather shifts, jackets and skirts all trotted down the runway. Seam details created structure as well as side zips on skirt that made harsh leather, cheeky and flirtatious. 
Coats sported contrast piping (as seen at several shows) and is set to be the thing for AW10.
Another common thread this week has been fur and Amanda followed suit with gorgeous black mini capes,gilets, skirts and cropped jumpers. Paired with thick wooly tights it was a very yummy winter look.
The second phase of the collection was all about jersey draping and Wakeley has by far been the most impressive this week. There were layered basics (like polo necks, cardigans and mini jersey skirts; as well as amazingly ruched dresses, that had the most divine fabric manipulation. Several panels created artful drapes that were outlined by piping details ensuring they really stood out. Floor length grecians (with rope belts) and thigh skimming party pieces are key wardobe staples. 
Aside from piping, velvet ribbon was used along trouser and skirt seams and added texture to the looks. Navy, gun-metal, monochrome, silver and blush pink all appeared in the collection, presenting a lovely muted palette. The final phase of the show was all high party dress and there were plenty of asymmetric sequined pieces and cut away, angular necklines that reminded me of Jasper Conran's pieces earlier in the week.
A gorgeous collection of investment pieces. Start your shopping lists now.
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Editor @ Large . . . Basso and Brooke

Every season I wonder what this duo can do next. How can they think of new shapes, colour combinations and print designs; and each season they do.
The show began with a series of jersey dresses in host of nature/animal inspired prints, these were combined with the usual graphic style of Basso and Brooke to create a selection of brightly hued and striking dresses. I especially liked the way the colour palette, though vibrant had been muted for the AW10 season. Wine/berry tones played a huge role in print bases, that gave them a really wintery vibe. I was surprised again, like I had been at Ashish at the attention to detail to basics such as wool trousers and frock coats in grey and berry tones, as a means of entry points to the brand for those not quite ready to be so daring.
Naturally most pieces were jersey and body con, with printed tunics, leggings and maxi dresses all appearing on the runway. Collars followed the trend for round, stand ups, but naturally in jersey, they draped beautifully.
Several jersey dresses showed off a herringbone/weave style print, similar to that seen at Osman, suggesting a potential trend.
As usual, Basso and Brooke achieved some fabulous jersey draping and panelling that showed how each piece of print is specifically placed.
Surprisingly there were several coats accessorised with fur collars (a definite trend for AW10. As well as on trend cape shapes in block colors. 
The second phase of the collection saw snake prints in orange and green hues as well as panels that resembled the sahara desert and prints that were reminiscent of inner city buildings. It was almost a fusion of nature and modernity.
Yet again Basso and Brooke has created a collection that creates and wows and firmly keeps them the kings of colour.

Editor @ Large . . . Ashish

With a front row of Paloma Faith, Nicola Roberts and Louis Mariette, Ashish was filling up thick and fast. 
The press release said that he would be chanelling a Soviet look which has been rather popular this week.
The show started with some sequin striped (ice blue and cream) pyjamas that began unweave the androgynous vibe of the show.
Though majority of the collection stayed true to form with some clever and inventive use of sequins, interestingly there was a move towards some more basic pieces. Heavy wool skirts with pleated waists (in maxi and a-line knee length versions), culottes and high waisted slouchy trousers all made an appearance. Men's style jackets and trench coats added to the androgynous feel to the collection and a more manly edge to the girlish, sparkle that filled the catwalk.
Most eye catching was Ashish's fabric combinations. Densely sequined tees had sleeves partially made of fair isle and textured knits that had xxx top stitching creating a make do and mend, lost and found style. It reminded me of collections from earlier in the week like Meadham Kirchoff who also worked on a mix and match look.
There were several maxi dresses, skirts, tunics and trousers sequined in traditional Russian florals that had a graphic edge (almost old computer graphic like).
One of my favourite pieces was a cricket jumper that instead of knit had the design entirely in sequins. 
There were other quirkier sequin designs, such as polka dots and teddies and space invader style tribal signs. But overall many of the sequin pieces were far more wearable than in previous seasons and were simply beautiful in construction and style rather than just 'wacky' and cool.
I loved the mix of knits and sequins and it's definitely the top one this season!

Monday, 22 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . Nico D

Post Hogg I headed to see dear friend Nico Didonna's presentation at the VFS.
When I got there again the room was packed but luckily as I poked my head backstage Nico grabbed me 
and dragged me through the back to a prime standing position. 
Although Nico called it a presentation it really was a show and the models sashayed up and down the faux catwalk showing off Nico's latest wears.
The menswear as usual was gorgeous and there were some lovely biker style leather jackets, a lovely blue wool coats and several fur collars. 
The womenswear was all about evening glamour and once again Nico displayed an updated version of his classic multi way wrap dress. There were several beaded numbers as well as lots of chiffon dresses that used layers of fabrics and asymmetric hem detailing.

While there was nothing drastically unexpected, Nico has begun to carve himself a signature look for well tailored menswear with quirky trouser shapes and lots of gorgeous evening frocks.

Editor @ Large . . . Pam Hogg

The queue for Pam Hogg was nothing short of insanity and we all know there is nothing worse than restless fashionista's. 
I snapped up a seat (though with the crowds I'd have been better standing) and the excitement began. 
Pam Hogg definitely has her own style and there were plenty of new re-inventions of her staple catsuits. Leather and jersey were combined into fantastic creations that were the most body-con I've seen all week! 
Strong shoulders were still the order of the day, with leather panels used to create a 'shoulder pad' effect. 
Aside from the staple catsuits that trotted down in several colour combinations (including gold and black) there were also sequin embellished lace versions that were just as gorgeous as any couture gowns. 
One piece that did catch my eye was a beaded mini cape which was simply divine! 
Hogg also played with fabric manipulation and created amazing ruffled head pieces that were like giant tulle pom poms and filtered this idea into the clothing through multi tiered ruffle skirts, bustle back pants and tulle ruffled jackets. This added a more girlish manner to a rather harsh and sexualised collection. 
I was surprised to see that there was fur here too, but it was rather beautiful. It was the iciest white with grey flecks and combined with chiffon made a gorgeous cape and jacket.

Although Pam Hogg is pretty much a legend already, I really felt that this collection had seen masses of development from SS10. While the catsuits remained as stunning as ever Pam Hogg really came out all guns blazing and created a varied and spectacular collection.

Editor @ Large . . . JAEGER

Jaeger us always one of my favourite shows of the week. For me it strikes the right balance between designer edge and consumer awareness. On the right woman it will look grown up and sophisticated but equally, paired with the right attitude (and shoes) it can play dirty with any other 'cool designer house'.
Jaeger did nothing to dispel the idea that designers get together to discuss trends pre fashion week, as all the key elements I have seen at other shows were present here at Jaeger.
the colour palette was predominantly neutral and monochrome with flashes of navy, a moss like green and purple.
The collection had quite a strong Russian military vibe but also borrowed from a sixties aesthetic in the form of a line mini dresses with funnel and grandad style collars. These came in a selection of colours, textures and fabrics that included a mohair like knit and a quilted version.
Jackets mixed military detailing with sixties finishes such as long line, loose tux cuts, skinny lapels and contrast piping and edging. Front fastenings included criss cross buckling, that was a feature also seen on day 3 of LFW.
Again fur, suede and leather played a big role in today's collection. There were several waterfall front gilets in suede and fur as well as a tan leather jacket. Unstructured/oversized jackets had a very androgynous feel and paired with slim leg trousers were well balanced. Felted wool, textured knits and ribing were all combined to create interesting slouchy knitwear pieces that were a perfect statement piece for AW10.
Laser cutting (which has been growing in popularity season on season) was used here to create my favourite cape of the week. The cropped cut, ribbon tie and delicate cut out design made it very fairytale. There were the standard graphic prints for shift dresses and blouses in both monochrome and purple/moss green as well as beige and black stripe design (quite a signature for Jaeger).
Interestingly the oversized checks that appeared at Osman this morning appeared again here, albeit in black/cream, suggesting this is a trend to watch.
The final phase of the collection saw navy velvet, further lazer cutting (overlaid on silk to create two tone and texture) as well as some clever beaded patterns that looked like lace and were over all very effective. Another strong collection by this British institution.

Editor @ Large . . . Osman

The queue for Osman was immense and I won't lie, at one point I seriously thought I wasn't going to make it, fashion week is definitely in full mayhem!
Osman started the show with a snap shot of his new line of jersey dresses. Not every designer can work jersey and I was pleasently surprised by the delicate drapery of the pieces. Elegant and chic in AW10 fav navy blue and accessorised by an oversized clutch.
Osman's seperates didn't really feel particularly wintery and the silk print trousers and blouses had a distinctly summery feel. However weight was added to the collection by a host of hairy felted wool coats, jackets, capes and suiting.
While suiting remained dark (navy and black hues, brightened by hot pink tube tops), coats flashed giant checks in black and purple and there were some beautiful funnel neck jackets in hot pink. Several coats had skinny sleeves and then voluminous, cape like bodies that balanced skinny aknkle skimming trousers.
Silk trousers were quite slouchy and printed in both checks or herringbone, neutral tones ensured that these pieces would go with a host of items, although quite statement and the elastic waist pair reminded me of the Prada, pyjama style collection a few seasons ago.
While trouser legs were often cropped or ankle skimmers, sleeves switched between skinny and slightly a lined crops (especially on coats, it's time to dig out those elbow high gloves).
While a lot of the collection remained in navy, black and neutral tones, there was added bolts of color from light and electric blue, pinky reds and pewter shades.
Shockingly fur made yet another appearance on the catwalk in fox shades and there was both a cape and full length version.
Evening dresses were in a host of navy and pewter silks and embellished with eighties style, colourful, rectangle crystals, on pockets (a bit Matthew Williamson) and on a single sleeve (like a multi cuff).
Shirts took to the trend for mismatching with only some pannels printed in the bright herringbone print, which was then used again on jersey pieces.
Over all the jersey pieces were by far my favourite and well worth an investment.

Editor @ Large . . . Markus Lupfer

Well I finally made it to a presentation this week, with back to back shows every other day presentations full down the line of excitment but are really the best way to see the clothes.
I went to Lupfer expecting the same old cartoony, cheeky jumpers but was surprised by the extra and more grown up offerings on show.
Body con knitted dresses, tartans with peplums and beading, cropped jackets with chiffon ruffles and plenty of twinkles. Ironically are favourite piece was a jumper emblazoned with 'sunday Best' showing that Lupfer has cornered the quirky knit market. However with jumper dresses that experiment with beading and chiffon drapes and well cut coats and capes, Lupfer should successfully begin to branch out and gain new fans.
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Sunday, 21 February 2010

Jasper Garvida

This collection was based on the 1920's film star Louise Brooks, with her stylish grace and elegance. The models all had their hair side parted with bright red lipstick.
The predominant colours for the collection were bottle green and black. Broken up with greys and cremes.
The the 1920's theme ran through the collection in the pattern cutting, with the iconic 'Sunrise' set into the front on shift dresses.
There were knitted boleros worn over dresses, exaggerated shoulders, sequins and jersey rib high collars. This collection had the 1920's influences, but it also seemed to have gained a lot of design inspiration from outside of this era. Although, it was still a beautiful collection that brought together stylistic sophistication and femininity.

John Rocha

Celebrating John Rocher's love of contradiction, this collection focused on the boundaries between fragile, strong and tender.
The collection was very textured with layered leather pleats in full dresses and gathered chiffons. The models wore tall black hats covered in soft chiffon, continuing with the textured theme and the strap that went under their chin was similar to that of a riding hat.
A lace pattern was laser cut onto black felt and created into the dramatic A-line dresses, this was combined with accents of leather and cut out knee leggings..amazing!!!
They were chunky knitted dresses worn with knee high socks and cycling shorts, with a bit of skin poking through, this looked fab! The attention to detail was to perfection and this ran through to the knee high creme socks that had small black bows, adding a girlie touch to the 'tough' outfits.
The furs and leathers on both mens and womenswear were unfinished at the edges, creating unusual shapes and statement pieces. The men wore bowler hats, chunky knits and well tailored suiting. The textural theme ran through to creating oversized waistcoats in the fur and layered pleated leather, which were worn over shirts and blazers. Emphasizing the contradictions he was trying to make.
The collection, has to be one of my favorites for Fashion Week so far!

Topshop Unique

This was the woodland version of Shakira's Shewolf- quite literally!
The hair was wild and unkept, the make up was natural and dewy and the eyebrows...unforgetable!

The models walked on a bed of rustic coloured leaves wearing headpieces with ears, noses or antlers depending on which animal they were.
The clothes were all about comfort and layering with chunky knits, jersey and beauty coats. The snug feeling contined through the collection with cable knit thigh high socks and furry mittens, looking more like paws!
The colours were earthy with greens, browns all lifted with creams and pinks. The shoes were sturdy lace up boots decorated with fur, continuing with the theme.
The collection featured trousers, bungarees, amazing dresses that hugged the waist and flared out over the hips. The coats were stunning and had small draping bustles at the back, which sat beautifully.
The collection has made us more excited abouy winter again. It's looks so cosy, warm and loads of fun!

Editor @ Large . . . Meadham Kirchoff

This was my first foray into the Topshop show space this season but from previous shows I knew that Topshop's new home was nothing short of perfect. The drinks and canapes were flowing and the whole catwalk area was decorated in a 'gypsy' style, trinkets and mismatched rugs adorned the runway.

The show started in complete darkness to reveal models slopping along the catwalk in cut up, flat boots and heavy socks. The clothes can only be described as Peruvian Chic, for the mismatched nature of the prints, layers and clashing colours. 
There was plenty of sparkly embellishment and the whole look was very 'Lost and Found.
Mohair knits were embroidered with florals and sequins and were layered under silk chiffon, tiered and floor length evening gowns,again giving a rather disjointed feel. Skirts were floor or calf length and came in a hue of bright florals including red, pink and orange. 

My favourite pieces were the floral embellished/painted leather biker jackets that were very masculine, only given a feminine twist by their floral appearance. 
Meadham hasn't followed a single trend but rather chosen to create individualistic pieces and for this we salute you Kirchoff.

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Editor @ Large . . . Julien MacDonald

By sheer luck I ended up with a ticket to Julien MacDonald, a show I'd been desperate to get into for years. Showing down the road from Somerset House in The Banqueting House, Whitehall, the venue was definitely grand and reminiscent of my trip to Paris, Couture week.
The paps were out in force to cover the strong front row that included fashion editors, singers, tv presenters and IT girls. In fact in order to get everyone to sit down the show literally just went full steam ahead and started causing a final scurry from the winding catwalk that saw several models take to the floor at once, strutting on a circuit.
The show started with super chunky knitwear with raised and textured sleeves and cute fur collars. This was true winter wear that soon descended into trade mark Julien frocks. Following on from other emerging trends Julien again used fabric combinations to create interesting structure and texture to barely there dresses that combined cobweb knits and knife pleated and draped silks. the dresses were very much lingerie inspired, continuing the trend for underwear as 'outerwear' that is so popular this current SS10. Many of the dresses had inbuilt seam detailing, corsets and bust cups.
Coats and jackets were in super soft wool and were often tailored trenches or the loveliest cropped tux styles with skinny lapels and matching skinny or peg leg trousers.
My favourite coat was the caplet version that had post box slit armholes and a chic cape over the top. It was very military but with a historical edge.
Like other designers MacDonald mixed leather and suede (using panels) in jackets and coats. Zips were again exposed as has been the trend for several seasons. 
Silk jersey added a welcome break to the knit and was draped to perfection to create the chicest navy party frock. 
Trends have been emerging thick and fast this week and Julien was definitely in on them all. Sheer organza in nudes filledin slashed out details and created 'there but not there styles' as dresses were slashed away to expose skin that was in fact delicately veiled.
Winter white, navy, red, black, nudes and dusky blush pink are all set to be huge next season and Julien's collection seems to be bang on all the emerging trends at LFW. 
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video

Editor @ Large . . . Todd Lynn

I've been wanting to see Todd Lynn for ages, so I was super excited to see the show and the king of rock and roll didn't disappoint.
The collection slotted nicely into the trends we've seen emerging this week. There was plenty of leather, wool and fur combined to create garments that were both futuristic, structural and warrior like. The tailoring was exceptional, particularly the wool and leather panelled trench coats with back vent, pleat and button detailing. 

Trousers were skinny and occasionally worn under mini leather skirts.
The menswear was again extremely tailored and mixed leather panelling into wool jackets. 

Biker jackets were a main feature for the womenswear, often with asymmetric fronts, piping and stitch seam detailing that created extra structure. Fur was used in full thickness, fox toned pieces adorned collars in all its lustre. Even the fur however was manipulated to create strong shoulder lines and sometimes only forming half a sleeve, with a leather skinny sleeve emerging from within. 

Laser cutting was again used to create strips of leather that were woven into architectural bolero structures again giving the appearance of armour. The muted palette of earthy tones (chocolate, grey, black and dirty silver/bronze) ensured that all eyes lay on the attention to detail of each piece. The cutting was superb and so far my favourite of fashion week.

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Editor @ Large . . . Jasper Conran

aving got over the excitement of spotting the Sugababes on front row, we settled into watch Conran watch his magic.
All futuristic, Jasper sent his models down the runway in various shades of red, black, cream, fuschia and orange often clashing the colours together. The collection used a lot of lazer cutting to create cut out panels that were either replaced by barely there chiffon or pulled away and pinned up to create structure. 
The collection was very structured and had an almost origami feel to it at times. Jasper created the most amazing structured knits that curved up over the models backs and created strong, angular shoulders. 
Tops were often full and draped at back or worked into egg like cape shapes that engulfed the models like shells, with pillar box cape slits for arm holes. There was an amazing petal dress that had layers and layers of nude petal shapes again referring to origami. 
Many of the dresses had an almost art deco feel as foiling, pvc and mirrored mosaics were used to embellish the garments. 
This technique was used on silk, chiffon and wool creating a multitude of textures. If you didn't catch the show, check it out the pictures! Literally out of this world! http://fash-pack.blogspot.com  www.twitter.com/fashpack
video

Editor @ Large . . . Elliot J Frieze

We dashed across to Victoria House for the Frieze show and after having hovered in fourth row we were quickly bumped to prime front row seats, it's all about connections darlings.
The show was a mixture of mens and womenswear, making a nice break from the gorgeous slender ladies we've been seeing all week.
With a definte 1940's flight wear inspiration Frieze effortlessly mixed suiting wool with panels of gorgeous tan leather (a definite trend for AW10). The strong palette of the darkest navy, tan and grey was chic and elegant and slotted in nicely with other designers chosen colours this week.
For womenswear jackets were tailored to perfection following the bodies contours and often fluting out at the bottom to add a feminine charm to an otherwise masculine item. Frieze sent down the skinniest pencil skirts that had buttons embellished vents, adding that extra attention to detail. There was a gorgeous leather suit and some delicately draped wool dresses that would make both great occassion and work wear (for the uber stylish). There was also a return to the double breasted suit for women, a trend that would look ever so hot on the streets of NYC as well as London.
Menswear was again excellently tailored and the wool looked beautifully soft. Jackets were cut long, with a single button fastening, while trousers tended to have a more relaxed cut, slighlty bagging out from the knee, cinched in by extra chunky socks. The trousers almost had a grown up, jogging bottom feel to them. Jackets were often edged in leather piping which added a contrast colour and buttons were always a contrast tan to either grey, check (grey/brown) or navy wool.
A beautifully executed 40's style collection that will have both boys and girls excited to see winter again.

Editor @ Large . . . Betty Jackson

Betty Jackson is without a doubt always worth getting up early for. Perched behind Erin O'Connor and Hilary Alexander I had a fabulous view and I was so overwhelmed by the collection I can't even tell you what the music was!

The collection started with trade mark Jackson, superb felted wool coats and jackets. For AW10 Jackson has opted for oversized patch pockets as the main feature, that grew and formed partially outside of the garment and overhung the hem.
Jackets and coats flowed between tailored styles and cropped jackets that borrowed from cape like styles, with trench like features.

Trousers were all rather loose fitting, mainly with pleated waists, either all the way round or flat front trousers with pleated sides. The harem pant remained a popular style with dropped crotches in a number of colour ways and fabrics. Leg fittings were loose and on occasions featured calf crops.

Volume was given to trouser bodies by clever pleating and fabric manipulation.
Sleeve shapes fell in line with other trends seen this week with leg of muttons (this time tres over sized) and in built sleeves that rounded out from the body creating a cape like effect.
Skirts came in a all kinds. Mini leathers, pencils with side ruching detail and full on 70's style a-line, almost cardboard like in its shape.
There were plenty of easy to wear shifts with asymmetric detailing and drapes to create style and my favourite was a min tanned leather shift dress, that makes the leather trend available to a wider audience. Playsuits also featured in various printed silks.
Print played a huge role in the collection and there was a mixture of abstract gingham style prints (that had a safari feel) in brown/cream and a red/white combo. Also popular (as with others) was a winter, 70's style retro floral print, which was style in mix and match colourways and adorned silky skirts and loose fitting, pleated trousers.

The colour palette was huge, with gold, navy, grey, cream, red, tan, dirty blush pink and a gorgeous dirty greenish gold all making an appearance.
Fabric choice was varied too and Jackson effortlessly mixed corduroy, silk, wool, felt and leather. Denim was also popular and has made a surprising return to the catwalk this season, Jackson did a D & G and mixed various shades and weights within one outfit.

A truly outstanding and wearable collection with plenty of attention to detail, adding to my wish list ... Dirty gold hairy wool coat and retro florals.
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video

Saturday, 20 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . PPQ

Omg, what a night! I had desperately tried to make it to Jacob Kimmie only to be stopped by the entirely useless system we call TFL! This in turn made me miss Jasper Garvida (but thankfully my trusty assistant was there and will write up posts shortly. I did however miss Ann Sofie Back with no back up and shall remain gutted until further notice.

So with that I headed back with Marc to Somerset House with plenty of time to spare before the PPQ show. I was super excited as these tickets arrived late last night by courier! 
We queued up, had our tickets check several times before finally making it into the show space. The room was heaving and the paps were having a field day with a front row that included: Pixie Lott, Jodie Harsh, Elliot Tittensor, Larry Lamb and Kaya Scodelario and these are just the few I spotted! 

The show itself was fantastic and possibly one of my fav so far. It skipped between 3 distinct decades. 
There were some swinging sixties cuts in the form of cute mini dresses and a gorgeous 'Pringle/Chanel'-esque cardigan that was trimmed in gold. 
70's style Ossie Clark bias cut floor skimming frocks and gathered, chiffon, bell sleeves with tiny buttons; and 80's Madonna mini dresses, all body con and peplumed.

The collections palette was black and gold and stuck to this throughout, allowing for experimentation in fabric and structure. The use of only two colours also meant that the garments could really do the talking and we weren't distracted from the beautifully cut trench coats and gathered waist peplums with just the right amount of volume. 

It was commented how 'early Gucci' the collection felt and it did. It was very sexy and provocative and had just the right amount of oomph and glamour. 

The gold was rich (it reminded me of chocolate wrapping) and the tone of black changed depending on the fabric. 
PPQ experimented with everything from the yummiest looking fur collared coats (the trench half draped in fur being a particular fav) and created structure through panelling their dresses mixing silk and satin with ease. 

I loved the strapless, sweetheart neckline dresses that are bound to be a hit with all girls about town and the three tiered cape and the dress with its own caplet had me literally drooling!

Ultimate piece for me though was the first set of dresses on the catwalk. Which saw velvet, strapless minis adorned in upholstery gold tassels, that is for me the ultimate trimming; What's more is that it looked unbelievably chic!  
(I'm off to my local haberdashery).
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Editor @ Large . . . Bora Aksu

I always love Bora Aksu and today was no exception. Avsh Alom Gur was sitting behind me (I was on front row naturally) and as I pondered why we aren't seeing his creative flair this season, the show began. 

Bora Aksu showed his usual futuristic flare with twisted knits, draped chiffons and silk dupions all in fantastic array of sugared pink, blue and camel. Aksu effortlessly mixed web knits and silk tulle ruffles to create structure and texture, utilising this technique to create shoulder details and emphasise waspie waists.
 
Like earlier shows, brocade in metallic tones made an appearance and textured marble prints created depth to garments. Skirts bell shaped while dress shapes borrowed bubble and tulip hems and shoulders were strong. Dress panelling was again order of the day and these body con tops seem here to stay. Central panelling in an hour glass shape in nudes and silks showed how perfect the pattern cutting was.
Bora is one master dj of fabric mixing and created a stunning futuristic yet on trend collection.

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Editor @ Large . . . David Koma

Having run from Prophetik to Aminaka Wilmont, to find that we'd missed the show so it was another run back to where we started! David Koma was unsurprisingly rammed and we queued outside for ages! When we finally got inside the show was pretty much full and I was literally the last person they let in! 
I couldn't see a thing so we climbed up on a ledge (oh what we fashion folk do) to watch this master work his magic. The collection was based in black with metallic hues that added the detail. Like his last collection Koma used embellishment to create curves and surface texture with python style leather stripe being twisted into origami like shapes on shoulders, hips, sleeves and bust lines. 
Dresses were super body con with panels to give added detail and structure to the pieces. The dresses were all about simplicity in cut with the features being created in the playfulness of the leather straps. A strong and cohesive collection that will no doubt please A listers the world over. 
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Editor @ Large . . . Prophetik

It seems to be that medival is the theme of day one as the Prophetik collection followed suit with huge puffball shoulders, leg of mutton sleeves and cinched waists that ended up in full, floor length skirts and dresses. It had all the inspirations of a witch hunt and menswear was layered with cropped waistcoats, long pleated back frock coats and skinny leg trousers tucked into riding boots.

Clothes featured deconstructed construction with pintucks and drapery and while parts of the collection were quite formal, there were plenty of commercial off the should jumpers, t shirt dresses and jean jackets.

Colours were very USA, with blue hues, red, black, white and brick tones.
Like earlier there was plenty of velvet setting the collection bang on trend. While there were avant guarde pieces, overall it was a very commercially viable collection, with strong menswear.

Kinder Aggugini

Inspired by Juliette Recamier, a french woman who stood up to Napolean I. Juliette was a beautiful accomplished woman with a real love for literature.
The collection is based on a beautiful feisty woman who lives like a true rock star...
The show was amazing and set us up for a busy day! The french influences ran through the collection in their ornate prints in navy and cream.
Military style cardigans were worn over long dresses, looking effortlessly elegant! The military style reflected in the coats, which were stunning! The cuts were clean and sharp and buttons were big and bold.
Kinder Aggugini put his own touch to the much loved cape (seen a lot in shows this fashion week) by having flashes of colour from the lining.
The models hair was slicked into a centre parting and some wore small 'cut out' berets on their heads, adding a fun touch to the show!

Friday, 19 February 2010

Vauxhall Fashion Scout - Ones To Watch

Eudon Choi
This collection brought together urban chic, with simple minimalist make up and strong eyebrows. The collection was in soft browns, creams and greens.
The leather jackets carried such attitude due to their high collar and definite shape. The parkas and coats were long in length with leather buckle strap detailing as a fastening.
This was all contrasted with beautifully tailored pieces with contrast panelling and padded shoulders.

David Longshaw
This collections brought an 80's influence due to a circular print in brown tones which was lifted with accents in an electric blue.
Shoulders played an important part, with them being the focus in stunning boleros and high shoulder pads.
Strong contrast panelling made the collection really strong and dramatic, but this was soften with pleated chiffon draping on across the body.
The hair was sleeked back given this collection a meticulous finish!

Askh
Featured both men and womenswear, we were wowed with beautiful knitwear in soft pastel tones of browns, pinks and creams. The knitted jumpers were embellished across the shoulders with small shimmering shapes that looked like little pieces of porcelain. The knitwear was contrasted with neutral toned suede leather. The leather dress had panels of chiffon with string detailing, giving an edwardian and bondage characteristic!

Florencia Kozuch
South American hats were worn against chunky knit cardigans with thick black leather belts, that featured a horn in the middle.
The knitwear was a 'candy floss' appeal due to its soft and weightless character that made it so delicate!
The collection was very feminine and lady like, with tailored dresses, exposed at the back and formed shoulders.

Ones To Watch put on an amazing show, and these designers are truely ones to watch...

Danny Tang

Sitting front row, we were able to get an amazing view of this stunning collection and see Jade from Britain Next Top Model featured on the catwalk.
All the models had delicate pieces of lace on their faces, but all had different hair styles, expressing the models individuality.
The colour scheme was gun metal grey with vibrant red, such a dramatic contrast, tied together with a Latina romantic feel. The collection featured pleated skirts, long line waist coats, puff ball hems with netting over silk and the most amazing and elegant evening dresses!
The evening wear brought together Kang's 'Urban Victorian' inspiration, with lace collars that sat beautifully on the neck. The dresses were in a vibrant red juxtaposed with black lace or chiffon. The fish tail shapes fitted the body perfectly and brought out the elegance of this collection!

Charlie Le Mindu

Charlie Le Mindu impressed yet again with a collection of 'couture creations' made of real human hair, inspired by cults and religious secrets. The collection featured a lot of religious crossed that were worn on the tops of the models heads, making a definite statement!
Black and navy were the prominent colours, adding a depressing and macabre mood, but this was lifted with accents of aqua and green and blue glitter!!
The hair was dyed to look like feathers, with tones of greys and blacks. The hair was created into the most beautiful coat, that was edged in an aqua coloured fur. Stunning!
The hair was long, black and straight, draping over the body whilst set against lace underwear and leggings. The hair was formed into very dramatic headpieces (one just like the beefeater!) Making this show unforgettable, and an amazing start to London Fashion Week!

Editor @ Large . . . Caroline Charles

Continuing the theme from Paul, Caroline had a stonking turnout. As usual she had divised her show into 4 sections, which seamlessly eased into one another. Set 1 'Metropolis Urban' took on winters much favoured monochrome palette and was accented but tiny hints of green in the form of skinny patent belts. 
Set 1 was all about easy work wear. Shift dresses both sleevless and cap sleeved featured and well cut jackets were cinched with eiter wide or super skinny patent belts. Obi belts (popular a few seasons ago) made a welcomed return to the catwalk, used to pull in and fasten textured wool blanket coats. 
Section one also featured a gorgeous wool jumper dress, with a polo neck and tulip cut front. There was also similarities with Costelloes collection as the vintage, rounded collar fur jacket reappeared for Caroline's collection, def a must have for AW10! 
'Rural Hobo' (set 2) had all the feel good of 40's Dig for Victory, a popular inspiration for Charles. There were flat riding boots, gorgeous leather and fur deer hunter hats and plenty of brown check suiting and tweed pencil skirts. Autumnal toned floral prints appeared on shifts and skirts and jackets were snug and tailored. 
Set 3 'Boho Cocktail' showed off the skinniest knife pleat skirts, calf length in moss and ruby red hues, coats again utilised the blanket shape and took on patchwork and brocade textures.

The final section was a Caroline Charles stapled and showed off her famous evening wear. The beading was superb as always and the collection came in a rainbow of colours (though nearly always based in black) and referenced the oriental stylings in its beading technique and stand up collars. There was also a return to velvet (popular this season at NY Fashion Week) with swinging velvet evening jackets (very androgynous in cut). The final section of cropped evening jackets were divine, almost like beautifully beaded art deco shrugs.
Very rock chick. I do love gold!

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Editor @ Large . . . Paul Costelloe

The BFC tent was literally full to capacity for the first show of LFW. Paul Costelloe, always the first off the starting blocks showed a truly trendy collection. The first section reminded me of medival punks. Gold brocade teamed with black leather leg warmers, huge leg of mutton sleeves, exposed zips and graduated hem lines (short at front long at back) made these girls the queens of the catwalk strutt! Hair was huge and rounded and eyes were kept smokey to give off a rebel vibe.
The collection swiftly moved from beautiful brocade to wintery checks in shades of black/grey and brown, really reminded me of highland winters and Scot heritage. Coats were cut in frock shapes and floor sweeping belted numbers gave off a slightly spy feel. Mini check dresses had leather bustiers again referencing the eighties. Skirts and coats also featured huge bell shape skirts, again mixing eighties and medival inspirations. The third phase of the collection showed of pink/purple retro floral prints and dark chocolate brown fur coats that had a real vintage feel. The final stage showed silver lames twisted into evening dresses and cut into androgynous jackets. Menswear popped up in the form of autumnal toned suiting and satin edged evening wear. A commercial but intricately designed collection.

Monday, 15 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . SS10 shoot

Last week we shot our main fashion spread for RANDOM SS10!
Danielle Foster and Alex Prinz from D1 were our victims for this freezing cold day in Dalston and poor Alex hasn't quite been the same since!

Shooting on the roof of a Dalston development we were exposed to the elements.
Clothes came from the likes of Rokit, Fred Perry and McQ as well as some divine Sportsmax by Max Mara.
I love this shot, the outfits are in total unison.

I wanted a shoe shot and bullied our amazing photographer Davide Sometti into getting my shot in the most artistic way possible!

The shots can be seen in the new issue of RANDOM out in MAY!

Thursday, 11 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . An Ode to Alexander McQueen

Many of you will now know that tragically Alexander McQueen committed suicide. This has been a year of 'celebrity' loss, but it's McQueen's disappearance that will hit me most.

I decided to go into fashion after seeing a video of a McQueen collection at the V & A. It was the moth collection, where he had made all his models bandaged and tortured souls. I was astounded. I remember standing there watching it, over and over, maybe for half an hour or more. There was such beauty and such pain, in perfect measure in perfect harmony. I understood it and was yet confused. I knew then that I wanted to work in fashion. I through myself into experimenting with wire clothing and randomness. I wanted to make it to his level, even though I knew I never would. I read everything I could on him, I went to his offices and spoke to people there, I was consumed by his clothes and wolfed down his brilliance. In later years I followed his work, I always watched the shows online and held the products longingly in store. I still have my McQueen jeans, which I never wore but will never bin. 

When I read he was dead (twitter, the power of social networking) I went straight on Net A Porter and bought an Alexander McQueen ring, i'll be skint for the rest of the month but I don't care. I had to have it. I may not wear it, I might just keep it in a box. My piece of a man that changed my life. Never underestimate the power of inspiration. 

McQueen wowed everyone the world over. A master tailor, a genius, a creative, someone who understood women's and men's clothing alike. 

McQueen was found dead today 11/02/10

RIP x

Saturday, 6 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . EDDIE


The other day I told you about Alex and mine adventure to Brighton to make the first ever music video for EDDIE
Here is the result! xx