Sunday, 15 February 2009

Roving Reporter: BCBG Max Azria

Max Azria is a very busy man. Aside from heading up BCBG, Max is also showing two other collections this NY Fashion Week: one his own label, Max Azria, and of course the other for his must-have celebrity favourite, Herve Leger.

BCBG is one label, alongside the likes of Donna Karen and Calvin Klein, that does the New York look so well. Dresses were beautifully cut, with deconstructed and paneled dresses and coats the main staples of the collection.

Fabrics were sumptuous: think rich-looking silk, soft jersey and deep, opulent velvets. The colour palette was dark and moody. Perhaps purely because it was winter, Max chose to go for black, deep blue and splashings of cream, which brought the collection into a lighter phase.

Being A/W, coats were instrumental in this collection. There was a huge variety of cuts (though nearly all were black) from tailored dress coats, to this cocoon silhouette. Cocoon coats were the big thing about two winters ago, so if you still have yours tucked away make sure to drag it out. This one is particularly voluminous, but you can always cinch it at the waist with a belt.

It has often been said that the world of fashion doesn't cater to those who actually can buy it. Although we show garments on 16-year-old girls, we expect 40-year-old women to buy. Quite frankly, the hems often are far too shot, and the neckline too plummeting for most 'older' ladies. This, at BCBG, is not the case. Dresses and coats were elegant and trans-generational. Bias cuts ensured that even the sleekest dresses were forgiving.

Again, asymmetric dresses are here to stay, and quite frankly I'm pleased. I love dresses that create focal points, like the one above - it's simple and elegant, but the sweeping line draws the eye up the body. Quite superb! I love the bias cutting too.

I'm not to sure about the insane leg wear. Wet-look leggings were a tremendous hit this season, and thrown under rock-inspired dresses (on the right pair of pins), they look fantastic. But liquid-gold support tights ,I'm not too sure about. For me they ruined a beautiful selection of dresses and separates.

This open-necked, velvet twist dress is well cut and suitable for various figures and ages. The open neck ensures the eye is drawn down the body (not scarily across), and the twisted front can hide a multitude of sins.

Shoots are back! (shoe-boots for all those who missed the it season shoe of 2008). A great wardrobe staple, sadly again teamed with those insane leggings, though they are growing on me and I can deal with them when with boots.

Love the jersey slouch dress. Again, for a man with so much on his plate, this was beautifully executed. In times of economic downfall, women will be looking to buy good, cosy, wardrobe staples. I adore this shade of blue too.

We loved this jacket. Fantastic shoulder again. Ladies take note: Anything with a strong, 80s-inspired shoulders is in for A/W 2009.

This jacket and skirt combo is a perfect example of deconstructed dresses. The perfect panelling and that slight feeling that the skirt was inspired by an upside-down top left me feeling intrigued and wanting a closer look. The cream colour was also hugely instrumental in brightening up the whole collection.

An extremely classic palette but with inventive and creative silhouettes. The pattern cutting was outstanding and a beautiful take on modern, grown-up dressing.

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