To me, Donna Karen and Calvin Klein sum up NY fashion: simple but sophisticated, in easy to wear shades. But with these new kids on the block, the party scene is beginning to show through, and it definitely has a rock-chick feel.
As with so many collections for A/W09, there is an 80s vibe coming through. Unlike the neon trends of past summers, this 80s comeback is harder and more rock-couture than neon-pop. With black lips and high ponytails, the styling seemed to have been borrowed from the early Madonna years.
There were leather staples in the form of a well tailored, skinny blazer with matching skinny-cut trousers; the tassels of the past year seem to be sticking around again (great for the recession).
Eighties leotards (think Fame) were referenced through jersey tops with huge cut-out sections (a la Rachel Roy), teamed with high-waisted, skater skirts. I loved this look - it was so Madonna, with a touch of council-estate chic (but in a good way).
The whole collection looked like it was based on Sam Ronson's wardrobe, as the more girly pieces left the runway (maybe that was the LiLo selection). The models were then clad in tartan trousers with a slight peg-leg cut, sheer shirting and prim cardigans that were delicately studded to take a rebellious spin on the twinset.
There was plenty of print too - one of my favourite pieces was a simple black shift dress with slightly curved, exaggerated shoulders and a skeleton-like print across sections. Very wearable and little bit rock-chick couture (my preferred look).
The further I got into the collection, the more convinced I became that we are to see a switch to the darker side of the 80s this fall. Ronson sent down the most outrageous jumpsuit. It was beautifully cut. Big, 80s shoulders, nipped-in waist, slightly volumised hips and with tapering at the ankle. This beauty was definitely one of the lynch pins of the collection. While not easily wearable (after all, it was marooned-based floral print, accented with blue, coral and yellow), there was something totally lovable about this crazy look.
When Charlotte wasn't looking to the 80s, she had evidently taken her time machine back to the 20s, as there were some great 20s-deco appliques. My particular penchant was for this skirt. The look had a little bit of PPQ about it. Total grown-up sophistication and glamour, but with a hint of rebellion - which lets face it, is why we love all the Ronsons. But right now, it's all about Charlotte!