Sunday, 1 February 2009

Roving Reporter: Elie Saab

Elie Saab is a true fashion genius. His dresses are a Hollywood red-carpet favourite, and it seems A-list adulation is never far away.

I have been a HUGE Saab fan for years. This Lebanese designer creates some of the most show-stopping occasion wear.

This season's couture collections were all about intricate applique detailing, mainly taking a natural form and having huge influences from flowers. Other detailing included the use of elaborate bow sculptures to make the models appear like beautiful presents!

There were chic suiting combinations of full skirts and perfectly cut jackets, shown alongside classic Oscars wear. Full-length gowns, cinched waists and impeccable detail. Necklines were gathered and silhouettes draped and bias-cut to truly another level.

Colour palette was a combination of cool hues. The show started, like Chanel, with a selection of white outfits and caramel tones, followed by powder blue and dove grey.

To add even more glamour to the occasion, dresses were embroidered with Swarovski crystals on straps and waistbands. There were plenty of asymmetric dresses, both one-sleeved and with full, ballooning sleeves.

The lines of the collection were mainly waisted, but empire lines ensured that there was a good selection of silhouettes for every body type.

One of my favourite pieces was a floor-length caramel-toned dress with large appliqued roses creeping up from the hem: a modern-day fairy-tale wedding dress.

The collection suddenly shifted to a black palette, with knee-length shifts (fully appliqued), full 50s-style net skirts and kimono sleeves and floor-sweeping gowns (sprinkled with sparkle, full on ruffles and striking bodices). This sudden shift to black felt like a token nod to the colour that seemed to be the basis for many collections throughout couture week, but one I never match up to Saab. He always reminds me more of cool colours and vibrant metallic tones. This was confirmed for me when the collection bounced back to dove grey and a golden cream for the final two show stoppers.

Naturally the last dress was a wedding dress (with a slightly jaunty-angle veil). What caught my attention though was the penultimate piece. A ruffled tier dress with a sheer bodice that only protected the model's modesty through strategically placed embroidery and sequins.

Favourite Piece: EEEEK! I don't know. I LOVE LOVE LOVE SAAB, so I was partial to a few.

I loved all the dove-grey pieces, as that's one of my favourite colours. All the floor-sweeping pieces were divine! Anything empire-line (as that's MY shape) and the waist-gathered dresses, as they are definite red-carpet ones. (Did I mention I liked Saab?)

Styling: Hair was quite messily scraped back off the face, with all models having bits of frizzy baby hair poking up. Makeup was clean. Shoes were insane! They looked like demented platform Crocs. Bizarre!

Trend: More floral, more applique, more sparkles and 3D-ness.


  1. this collection is GORGEOUS, so romantic! I think the soft beige and greys did more justice to the details than the black dresses

    Bex Attar

  2. oh my god....!!! gorgeous ... i lurrvvve his work... n what a change from the previous collections ( sorry to say , he was getting repetitive at times) love the applique... dress no. 4 and 8 from the top are my favourite... !!!

  3. The last black gown, put it with a yellow-and-white diamond necklace...kill me. Perfect.


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