Showing posts with label art deco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label art deco. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 February 2009

Roving Reporter : Charlotte Ronson

This is one hell of a talented family! When Mark and Sam aren't lighting up the world of music (producing and DJing respectively), sister Charlotte is rocking NYC with her edgy fashion label. It's been great to see collections by the likes of Acne and Ronson, who seem to be bringing a new vibe to New York Fashion Week.

To me, Donna Karen and Calvin Klein sum up NY fashion: simple but sophisticated, in easy to wear shades. But with these new kids on the block, the party scene is beginning to show through, and it definitely has a rock-chick feel.

As with so many collections for A/W09, there is an 80s vibe coming through. Unlike the neon trends of past summers, this 80s comeback is harder and more rock-couture than neon-pop. With black lips and high ponytails, the styling seemed to have been borrowed from the early Madonna years.

There were leather staples in the form of a well tailored, skinny blazer with matching skinny-cut trousers; the tassels of the past year seem to be sticking around again (great for the recession).

Eighties leotards (think Fame) were referenced through jersey tops with huge cut-out sections (a la Rachel Roy), teamed with high-waisted, skater skirts. I loved this look - it was so Madonna, with a touch of council-estate chic (but in a good way).

The whole collection looked like it was based on Sam Ronson's wardrobe, as the more girly pieces left the runway (maybe that was the LiLo selection). The models were then clad in tartan trousers with a slight peg-leg cut, sheer shirting and prim cardigans that were delicately studded to take a rebellious spin on the twinset.

There was plenty of print too - one of my favourite pieces was a simple black shift dress with slightly curved, exaggerated shoulders and a skeleton-like print across sections. Very wearable and little bit rock-chick couture (my preferred look).

The further I got into the collection, the more convinced I became that we are to see a switch to the darker side of the 80s this fall. Ronson sent down the most outrageous jumpsuit. It was beautifully cut. Big, 80s shoulders, nipped-in waist, slightly volumised hips and with tapering at the ankle. This beauty was definitely one of the lynch pins of the collection. While not easily wearable (after all, it was marooned-based floral print, accented with blue, coral and yellow), there was something totally lovable about this crazy look.

When Charlotte wasn't looking to the 80s, she had evidently taken her time machine back to the 20s, as there were some great 20s-deco appliques. My particular penchant was for this skirt. The look had a little bit of PPQ about it. Total grown-up sophistication and glamour, but with a hint of rebellion - which lets face it, is why we love all the Ronsons. But right now, it's all about Charlotte!

Thursday, 22 January 2009

Runway Roundup: And the winner is... MANJIT DEU (WE LOVE YOU!)


It should be noted that Fash Pack were officially invited to this show by Manjit himself, and let me tell you, I'm so honoured!

I was told about 6 weeks ago that this boy on the LCF graduate course was outstanding and had created a final piece to end all final pieces. But I have to tell you, I didn't expect what I saw...

Manjit, 24 years old, hails from West London and completed his BA (Hons) at Winchester. Manjit said that a year and half ago, he never dreamed this moment would ever come and when I spoke to him (post-announcement that he did indeed -as we all knew the second we saw it - have the collection of the year), he was visibly shocked (and crying a little bit).

Inspired by Miami South Beach, Art Deco and a love of sequins (and I quote: 'Sequins have always been within me'), the collection was truly more outstanding than I will be able to describe to you. Oversized sequins adorned mini dresses that were excellently executed. Draped over and protruding like feathers, rectangular sequins created stronger squared shoulders and hips on garments that were cut close to the body.
There were pink, ice-blue and white versions on various scales.
There was also a fabulously draped 50s-style full skirt that was adorned in huge sequins. It was truly a red carpet fest of looks. Manjit's personal favourite piece was the short pink dress, again covered in large sequins that swished as the model walked. I, however, was torn between the final piece and a perfectly tailored powder pink trench coat that fit the model perfectly. It had an oversized and manipulated draped cape that was totally plastered in pink sequins and was truly fantastic!
I want one!!

The collection had its sequins hand sewn in Bombay by embroiderers who regularly work with McQueen, Dior and Gucci, perhaps already signifying that Manjit was destined for stardom.
The piece that sealed the deal for Manjit must have been the final piece, which had a Tilda-Swinton-meets-Dior feel to it, such was its presence. The audience gasped as this final piece made itself
known. A floor length white dress, with structured box shoulders and body that was draped,
manipulated and tucked in all the right places, making a perfect Oscar style dress.
Covered in sequins, the bodice part of the dress was like liquid gold. As the sequins dispersed over the skirt it was like watching a red-carpet event, only more beautiful, creative and exciting.
When there was confusion over the winner's name (a typo or bad handwriting) you could hear the rumbles of 'it has to be Manjit' with Fash Pack sure it was, but still crossing all our fingers and toes, we were relieved that justice was done, and the fashion crown went to the most deserving and worthy head.Manjit, we predict great things. Don't let us down (and keep sparkly)!P.s. I assume my new trench is in the post?!