Runway Round Up : Milan

So what did we learn from Milan?

When times get tough, the Fashion crowd dig in their heels, fill up their champagne glasses and ride it out!

Though there were designers who showed smaller collections, those who switched to presentations and even a couple who showed when their collections actually ability to be put in to production is still in doubt, fashion was still alive and kicking in Milan.

We saw fab furs, gorgeous suiting and superb mini capes. There were some brilliant basics, such as outerwear from Max Mara and while there were those that went OTT (yes we mean you D&G) over all Fashionista's created beautiful collections that left the drama behind and focused on wearability. 

All that is left to see is who will survive, who the buyers will go for and whether price points will be lower . . . Either way you will find it all here at Fash-Pack!

Roving Reporter : Dsquared

Starbucks?! At a fashion show?! On the run way?! What the @*%^?!

I'd say this shows the true credit crunch, when champagne is gone and ice latte's  are in, but in all fairness I think champagne is cheaper than the Starbucks! I would actually quite like to go to a show and be served an ice something-or-other, but to watch the models?!

Oh how hip that makes Dsquared! :-)

Loved the whole collection though. 

Incredibly youthful and fun, there was denim, ruffles, silk, hot colour, waistcoats, trenches and jackets.

Tartan, which has had a fair bit of usage throughout the shows in London, made a brief stop here. There were rock chic tee shirts and wet look leggings. My favourite was the feathered skirt (shown below).
A rock collection, cool, loaded up styling to represent a generation of kids with money to spend and fun to have!

Roving Reporter : Max Mara

More red! 

Max Mara do great suiting, tailoring and wearable outerwear. There is no airs and graces here, just good, honest, beautiful clothing. 

I have bought (for clients) trouser suits here and deem them some of the most gorgeous and chic in all the land!

Again it is the idea of mismatched tailoring, shown earlier in the week. This is a cunning bid by design houses to tell everyone that mix and match is cool in a bid to sell more pieces. It is all about versatile, investment, buys now sweetie!

Love this coat. Cropped sleeve (perfect for long gloves), great colour too.

I loved the neutral palette at Max Mara, winter whites, black, gun metal grey and natural tans accented by red, Perfect!

Roving Reporter : Fendi

Fendi have a habit of creating a signature accessory each season, whether the 'Spy' or the 'B', there is always something to lust after. Personally I'm still having accessory ache from not being able to afford (or appropriately wear) the cool belts they did with the giant buckles. I resisted buying the fakes (I don't do fake - I'd rather just go without thank you!) but this season, with talk of the IT bag being passe, it seems the clothes at Fendi were doing all the talking.

Mini Capes! They have been shown on a host of catwalks, this trend started a couple of seasons ago (in both mini and full) but never took off, mainly because capes are fun, but also incredibly impractical (I should know, I bought into it, it's gorgeous but a pain).

Will the mini take off again? I doubt it, But I really hope so, they're so cute!

I couldn't help feel that there was a bit of 'Joan of Arc' feel to the collection, slightly ancient warrior. Love this leather bodice with wool!

Again very warrior princess, velvet has been huge for A/W 09, especially in this burnt red!

Playsuits, they are creeping back in, they probably will be around forever, after all who doesn't want to wear a one piece!

Roving Reporter : Dolce and Gabbana

With diffusion line D & G having shown earlier in the week, these two are definitely old hats at this! 

Taking influence from screen sirens and 50's film era, they presented a gorgeous collection of chic clothes that showed both wearability and creativity. 

Hot pink was again the IT colour of the show, suggesting that come Sept/Oct, we will be all wrapped up in this mad hue. 

Marilyn Monroe was definitely the muse for this collection and her face was screen printed onto a host of dresses, ranging from sleek shifts to full on fifties, petticoat styles. 

Very 80's in its structure and colour, just check out those shoulders. But actually the hole fur coat thing has a very screen siren feel to it (maybe not in hot pink though).

I seriously WANT THIS COAT!

The detail on this dress is incredible, it is layered pieces at the shoulder, built up and sculptured. The fabric is essentially fused mesh. It is seriously incredible workmanship and I think  often D&G are so kitsch no one notices these little things!

And the Tux!

Again beautiful shoulder work, into a very gorgeous tailored tux. Remember folks, it is all in the detail!

Roving Reporter : Versace

I never used to like Versace at all. 

Maybe it was because, like Vuitton so easy to copy and fake it that it began to loose its exclusivity. Or perhaps overtime both our styles and tastes have developed, but for the last few seasons I have actively looked forward to their catwalk offering. 

No one can go back to their archives and re-invent the eighties like Versace. 

Though 'that' safety pin dress was worn in 1994, it epitomised the eighties style and this season Donatella went back to that era to produce a collection of wet looks, lurex style fabrics, cuts outs and hot colours to get the party started!

Wet look bodices, skirts, trousers and jackets were in abundance at the Versace show. I love the simple pairing of straight, boring, trousers with this moulded top. Keep the detail in one place please!

There were some incredible flashes of hot pinks, red and orange on the catwalk. These colours have been seen reiterated all over Milan, winter is going to be bright!

Check out the mismatched shoes!

So Versace, these dresses are pure signature! Love colour and the cut out details, these are coming to a red carpet near you!

Roving Reporter : Salvatore Ferragamo

Savaltore Ferragamo designer, Cristina Ortiz has not been successful thus far. Luckily showing her third season for Ferragamo, Cristina seems to now have the look down to a fine art. She presented a gorgeous collection of lady like tailoring, calf length trousers, cropped capes, top trenches and delicious furs. 

The colour palette, like elsewhere was fairly muted. A monochrome base was accented by red, purple and navy tones. 

Again like its designer buddies, there was no 'matchy-matchy' look. Rather tailored black jackets, with cream and camel tones within the rest of the look. I think again this is a credit crunch measure, reminding people that we can buy single pieces and work them in. Go for quality!

My favourite piece of the collection was this fabulous, structured shouldered knit. The chunky fair isle style, teamed with eighties like structure is totally on trend and a real dress up / dress down item.
More gorgeous fur (I am officially the worst veggie in the land!)

Again that mixture of colours within one look and I think you will agree she looks darn good!
There has been lots of sheer fabric around, goodness knows how this will work in the real world, but it does look gorgeous and is quite eighties rock; I wont be wearing this no. anytime soon though.

Roving Reporter : Etro

I've never paid much attention to Etro, but goodness knows why not!

I loved the colour palette, it had this real weird mix of cosmopolitan, country/hippy chic feel.

The opening looks were my favourite, especially this high waisted leather skirt (below), not overtly sexy, just total sophistication! 

Again we are seeing that 'paired down glamour'. Cute blouses and skirts, made more casual by gladiator sandals and basic macs.

Calf  length trousers are SO A/W 09!

I love this autumnal brown, actually one of my favourite colours! I loved the front pleats too. Relaxed tailoring is definitely the way to go.

Again prints has a slight hippy / Aztec feel. This definitely sits well with the tribal trend that is set to carry on from S/S 09 to the winter months.

There were loads of tribal print dresses, especially maxi dresses, something normally associated with the summer months. In cold Europe, I dread to see what the rain will do to these beauties, but they make a more relaxed alternative to the LBD.

Also note the fabulous statement necklace.

Though there were plenty of fur jackets and coats I was more interested in the gold brocade. There has been so much metallic, textured weaves on the catwalks. Not only in Milan but also in sunny London and NYC.

Roving Reporter : Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland are pretty sneaky. For the last few seasons Pringle have become more and more relevant and far more trendy!

There was of course the 'traditional' Pringle suiting, great trenches, beautifully tailored trousers and sweet dresses.

However once the basics were out the way. Pringle presented a cute and girly collection of feathered jackets, disco pink tops and bright orange shifts. There was also a host of on trend metallic tones. Bronze, silver and gun metal peppered the black and speckled monochrome tones. There was also some incredibly creative knitwear. New textures and loops replace last seasons tassel trend with a new twist. 

With knitwear this modern and shift dresses this cute there is no way that Pringle isn't the coolest thing going!

Roving Reporter : Roberto Cavalli

With Cavalli's diffusion label hanging in the balance, there was a brave face put on the main show. Cavalli showed a collection that was so true to form that hardcore Cavalli devotees will love it.

Cavalli is also championing the disco look for A/W 09 with lashings of sparkle. There was tones of wet look leathers in the form of jackets, leggings, skirts and boots.

A very skinny, eighties style for the uber young and glamorous Italian crowd.

Even the gloves were wet look and made the models look like they had been dipped in liquid silver. This collection was Cavalli, down to the lace detailed jeans and fur trimmed jackets.

I love the draped collars.

Has Cavalli been sneaking a peak at Marni?! More waders, it's so not going to be an easy look to pull off. Wet look, snake-esque dress. Very natural!

More wet look legs and fur . . .  Hmmm Must be Cavalli.

Roving Reporter : Marni

Marni's fall collection was truly a delicious melting pot of everything fab about winter. Lashings of fur were mixed with patterned, metallic, check brocade, jacquard weaves, roses and felted wool (yes again). 

The colour palette was awesome! Deep green/blues, purple, bronze, mustard hues, turquoise, monochrome and oatmeals. Ooooh delicious!

Cuts were quite simplistic and wearable. There were great tailored coats, cute shift shapes, all paired with funky tights and great peep toes.

I love these dresses, the cuts are so wearable for so many women and lets be honest, once the drama of the fashion circus is over it is all about being able to pop out in the damn thing! 

Love the mix of fabrics and gorgeous florals. I quite fancy those gloves too!

Many people are going to be pleased to see looser shapes back, and breathe out! Gone at Marni are the body con shapes, we can all relax again!

There has been lots of capes about, so this underground trend for those who love difficult outerwear! Great trousers too, a little bit rock chick even!

Westwood brought back tartan again and it seems that Marni agrees its time for a comeback. 

Gorgeous, print! Also check out this fantastic statement jewelry that ran throughout the show.

Roving Reporter : Prada

Last season Prada saw the first of many toppling models, this season, thankfully they all stayed up right, the collection however was anything but regular!

Ignoring the trend for eighties Disco, Prada went for a more outdoors, paired with the 40's theme. 

There was plenty of wool coats, skirt suits, waist belts and beautiful dresses. Like many of her fellow Milanese fashion week designers, Prada abandoned trousers for an uber girly collection.

I loved the boating waders that  were teamed with super glam dresses, not a look that will catch on, but fun, none the less.

Less fondly I am currently poring over strange, high waist, wool shorts, with knit tucked in, possibly the most frumpy thing I have ever seen!

However the coats and suiting were beautifully tailored and the embellished dresses, with applique florals and slashed panelling luscious. Worthy of note is the use of leather, wool and velvet, definitely the most popular fabrics for A/W. Velvet is back people!

Colour Palette: Red, Brown, Monochrome, Yellow.

Roving Reporter : Emilio Pucci

This was the first Pucci collection with new boy 'Peter Dundas' at the helm. The Norwegian was charged with bringing the company up to date and he did that by pretty much ridding Pucci of all its tell-tell signs. 

Having had stints at Cavalli, Revillon (fur house) and Ungaro, he is definitely a man who understands the Italian mindset.

Personally I was disappointed to see no 'Pucci' prints, but in all fairness I never really liked them anyway as they were kind of dated. It did feel however that I was watching a different brand entirely. 

Dundas definitely sexed it up. Over the knee pirate boots were shown with a host of thigh skimming dresses, it was young, fun and very brassy. 

Following a stint at the fur house Revillon, Dundas obviously has a thing for fur and that was demonstrated here in huge fur coats and beautiful, sophisticated parkas trimmed in mountains of it. There is no way a Pucci girl will be cold this winter!

Prints were good, though lacked the traditional style, there was a slight Rococo in their influences. I really liked this high neck maxi. Again very grown up, but also quite fun and hippy.

Over sized jackets and tailing seem to be the theme of the day. Like at Dell'Acqua, Dundas teamed his with super skinny trousers (very indie), in hot, hot pink.

Love the turquoise tones in the collection, it really works well with the creams and salmon colours, a really lift and quite a traditional Pucci colour. 

This embellished dress is also band on trend and is something for A-listers everywhere!

Ahhhh there it is, the Pucci print, off the wall, a bit garish, but recognisable. Again, by keeping everything at thigh length and body con, Dundas is working hard to bring the brand up to date with a younger clientele.

The suit. It has been everywhere. Tailoring is back and it's definitely harsh and eighties in its styling. I do particularly love this one though. Great, strong shoulder line and cool, indie style peg legs. The little print top reminds us we are at a Pucci show, but the rest of the look is so modern it is hard to remember that fact!

Overall I wasn't blown away by it, but first collections are always a tough one. The shapes weren't overly trendy and hasn't fitted in particularly with the rest of the looks we have seen over the last two weeks. With such a drastic change at such a tough economic trading time, it could go either way. Whether new buyers to the brand will be worried about investing in a 'new,' (to them' label) while old buyers may feel alienated by the style overhaul is yet to be seen.

Watch this space!