Well, it's that time again, a host of bright eyed and bushy tailed students are being thrown out into the evil but brilliant world of fashion hoping to make a name and fortune for themselves, or failing that, at least enough to be able to eat (but not if anyone is around). So off I went to the LCF BA show at the Covent Garden Flower Cellar Market, with Bleu in tow to assess the latest fashionista's. I'm particularly fond of LCF, as I am one of their many alumni, and as I spotted my ex-tutors floating about I felt quite sad that I was no longer a student, but in fact now trying to make my mark in the big wide world.
The show started and the music was blaring and totally catwalk and again evoked memories of my own show last year. There were 28 students in total who had been whittled down from the entire graduating year. Surprisingly there was a distinct lack of menswear and I can't say that any of it blew me away.
My favourite in the menswear category, without a doubt was Asger Juel Larsen. Asger created a strong collection that made me think of futuristic warriors. All metallic knits, over sized tee's and shirts with wet look trousers. It was almost like a merger of the current rock-chick look, but for menswear. My pick of the collection would be the loosely knitted, armour style top, something I would definitely use in a photo-shoot, though may run if I met a man dressed like that.
There were a handful of womenswear designers that I would happily spend time flicking through their collections again and those worthy of note definitely played with shapes, textures and materials to create garments that definitely showed that LCF works in the commercial aspects with clever design.
The opening collection by Joanne Jones, was cohesive and well designed. The draped dresses won me over, while the delicate woven and bell details had me smiling and nodding in approval.
Katja Guenther was third to show and it was her punk style, monochrome collections, with plastic macs, zips, leather and perspex accessories that really caught our eye. The marble style prints on the plastic macs and dresses were so dazzling that I would, quite honestly buy one tomorrow, I adored them and would happily skip in the rain dressed in one.
This was shown a more feminine edge with chiffon dresses and delicate laser cut sections.
There was an immense amount of laser cutting this year and while laser cuts, make items appear like lovely snow flakes, for me it all began to feel a bit over done. I remember in my year, only one student (as I remember) used laser cutting and it felt revolutionary, somehow I now wanted something newer and more extraordinary.
Neliana Fuenmayor was evidently a very competent knit student and produced a collection in warm burgundy, gold and cream. The knitted panels, often embellished further with beading were displayed in a host of little dresses, that definitely 'rocked out some shoulders'. So on trend, so chick, so rebellious. A good display of her skill set, should see her do well.
(picture - Morgan O'Donovan)
Bleu and I both bounced up and down in our seats when Wun Ting Cecilia Ku's collection made an entrance. It was all black and sleek, accented only by hints of gold plating. It was so YSL - meets - Gucci - meets - Tom Ford and we were falling over ourselves with excitement at the detailed tux jackets, the gorgeously cut trousers and the flashes of velvets that made an appearance. This was total sexy-rock chick to the max.
Hye Young Sung dazzled me with a collection of draped wool jackets, and structured pieces, littered with stud detailing. There was definitely an 80's rock theme, working through a large number of the collections, but this particular set had a very, Alexander Wang, feel. All young and trendy, I can imagine these pieces being admired by the trendy New York East Side. I also heart all the zip detailed trousers and seeing as I'm a rock chick at heart, this was definitely one of my favs.
Winner of 'Collection of the Year', Hoi Lam Wong, with her kooky collection that combined florals, sequins and detailed tailoring. It was quirky and cool and though I was taken aback by its 'in your face' look (especially on the jumpsuit) I found myself loving the pieces that combined the unusually, mad, floral with sequin tux jackets. My new look perhaps?
As the show drew to a close, Bahar Alipour was the last to display and this collection felt heavily influenced by both Mexico and a Native American feel (as did the very first collection now I think about it). Bahar showed a strong use of styling and layering, as each outfit, made of a multitude of delicate layers, looked extremely well put together. There were wools, prints, draped trousers and delicate tops and shirts. It was an extremely strong collection and personally it felt new and exciting. I loved the colour palette of autumnal tones accented with red and blue and the use of fur with tailoring created a very strong and varied collection.
While other students appeared influence by last seasons catwalks - there were plenty of pieces that could relate back to Chanel, Prada and other big names, this didn't remind me of anything and I left smiling and looking forward to seeing the rest of the 'new kids on the block' at GFW this week.
Pics: Chris Moore