Well, it's that time again, a host of bright eyed and bushy tailed students are being thrown out into the evil but brilliant world of fashion hoping to make a name and fortune for themselves, or failing that, at least enough to be able to eat (but not if anyone is around). So off I went to the LCF BA show at the Covent Garden Flower Cellar Market, with Bleu in tow to assess the latest fashionista's. I'm particularly fond of LCF, as I am one of their many alumni, and as I spotted my ex-tutors floating about I felt quite sad that I was no longer a student, but in fact now trying to make my mark in the big wide world.
The show started and the music was blaring and totally catwalk and again evoked memories of my own show last year. There were 28 students in total who had been whittled down from the entire graduating year. Surprisingly there was a distinct lack of menswear and I can't say that any of it blew me away.
My favourite in the menswear category, without a doubt was Asger Juel Larsen. Asger created a strong collection that made me think of futuristic warriors. All metallic knits, over sized tee's and shirts with wet look trousers. It was almost like a merger of the current rock-chick look, but for menswear. My pick of the collection would be the loosely knitted, armour style top, something I would definitely use in a photo-shoot, though may run if I met a man dressed like that.
There were a handful of womenswear designers that I would happily spend time flicking through their collections again and those worthy of note definitely played with shapes, textures and materials to create garments that definitely showed that LCF works in the commercial aspects with clever design.
The opening collection by Joanne Jones, was cohesive and well designed. The draped dresses won me over, while the delicate woven and bell details had me smiling and nodding in approval.
Katja Guenther was third to show and it was her punk style, monochrome collections, with plastic macs, zips, leather and perspex accessories that really caught our eye. The marble style prints on the plastic macs and dresses were so dazzling that I would, quite honestly buy one tomorrow, I adored them and would happily skip in the rain dressed in one.
This was shown a more feminine edge with chiffon dresses and delicate laser cut sections.
There was an immense amount of laser cutting this year and while laser cuts, make items appear like lovely snow flakes, for me it all began to feel a bit over done. I remember in my year, only one student (as I remember) used laser cutting and it felt revolutionary, somehow I now wanted something newer and more extraordinary.
Neliana Fuenmayor was evidently a very competent knit student and produced a collection in warm burgundy, gold and cream. The knitted panels, often embellished further with beading were displayed in a host of little dresses, that definitely 'rocked out some shoulders'. So on trend, so chick, so rebellious. A good display of her skill set, should see her do well.
(Neliana's models backstage looking effortlessly cool - great detailing)(picture - Morgan O'Donovan)
Bleu and I both bounced up and down in our seats when Wun Ting Cecilia Ku's collection made an entrance. It was all black and sleek, accented only by hints of gold plating. It was so YSL - meets - Gucci - meets - Tom Ford and we were falling over ourselves with excitement at the detailed tux jackets, the gorgeously cut trousers and the flashes of velvets that made an appearance. This was total sexy-rock chick to the max.
Hye Young Sung dazzled me with a collection of draped wool jackets, and structured pieces, littered with stud detailing. There was definitely an 80's rock theme, working through a large number of the collections, but this particular set had a very, Alexander Wang, feel. All young and trendy, I can imagine these pieces being admired by the trendy New York East Side. I also heart all the zip detailed trousers and seeing as I'm a rock chick at heart, this was definitely one of my favs.
Winner of 'Collection of the Year', Hoi Lam Wong, with her kooky collection that combined florals, sequins and detailed tailoring. It was quirky and cool and though I was taken aback by its 'in your face' look (especially on the jumpsuit) I found myself loving the pieces that combined the unusually, mad, floral with sequin tux jackets. My new look perhaps?
As the show drew to a close, Bahar Alipour was the last to display and this collection felt heavily influenced by both Mexico and a Native American feel (as did the very first collection now I think about it). Bahar showed a strong use of styling and layering, as each outfit, made of a multitude of delicate layers, looked extremely well put together. There were wools, prints, draped trousers and delicate tops and shirts. It was an extremely strong collection and personally it felt new and exciting. I loved the colour palette of autumnal tones accented with red and blue and the use of fur with tailoring created a very strong and varied collection.
While other students appeared influence by last seasons catwalks - there were plenty of pieces that could relate back to Chanel, Prada and other big names, this didn't remind me of anything and I left smiling and looking forward to seeing the rest of the 'new kids on the block' at GFW this week.
Pics: Chris Moore
(Manjit Deu - Sequin Vest)
Unfortunately I failed on the shoe front. Not yet of Elle-editor status, I have to Metro it to my shows, so it's flats all the way! I will be rocking my black dress (Burberry rip-off) with gothic-like studs, black long-sleeve top (it is winter, after all), black tights, a vintage gold leaf cuff (to add a bit of glam) and finally black knee-high patent flat boots.
Manjit, we predict great things. Don't let us down (and keep sparkly)!
P.s. I assume my new trench is in the post?!
For shirts, Connie seems to like sheer and paint-spackled. A strip of neon-yellow down the front here, a dip-dyed rectangle of teal there. Throw those with some fuchsia trousers and no one can ignore you.
The boys out there who step into these looks had better tone up – besides the pec-baring sheer shirts and bum-displaying hot pants, Connie is a fan of high-waisted shorts for males. I don’t do menswear as much as Rivkie here, but I can say one thing: This is the first collection in awhile that brings men’s bodies up for scrutiny as much as women’s often are.
In Marina Nicolaidou’s master’s collection for the London College of Fashion show, I found the same train of thought take a new direction (and for menswear). Marina had it all – the leave-me-alone jackets, the jodhpurs with their crotches at knee-level – but with her looks all in white, she achieved a vibe that was so off-puttingly surgical that I loved it.
Marina played around with Mao collars, bow-in-back jackets and coats that feel more like robes than outerwear. But one of her most interesting pieces was subtle. Was that a high-riding cummerbund she put under one of her coats, or is she suggesting than men should belt their waists? Her experiment with length, as seen in the knee-length jacket that hit almost the same point of leg as her shorts, was pulled off well.
I’m not sure how many men we can expect to see wearing gauzy white shorts, and was that a male playsuit I saw? But overall, Marina gave me just what I was looking for – clean, well cut looks with flavours of the incomparable Yves.
Having witnessed rows and rows of excellent but somewhat predictable tailoring, it took these fun collections to revive my faith in menswear designers. 
Dimitri Stavrou’s MA collection for the London College of Fashion runway show would make David Bowie and Dazed & Confused fans proud. Using fringe reminiscent of loosely crimped horsehair, Dimitri added movement and attitude to his menswear.
Want your fringe down the side of your blazer? Just pick your colour – metallic gold, silver or black. Want it along the hem of your vest? No problem. Dimitri even added his signature embellishment to the back of calf-high Docs for a bit of a Rapunzel-meets-moonboot effect. (Strangely, I mean that in a good way.)
Could Dimitri Stavrou be London’s next rebel boy? Gareth Pugh’s gone off to Paris, so someone has to take the role.
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