Sunday 1 March 2009

Roving Reporter : Emilio Pucci

This was the first Pucci collection with new boy 'Peter Dundas' at the helm. The Norwegian was charged with bringing the company up to date and he did that by pretty much ridding Pucci of all its tell-tell signs. 
Having had stints at Cavalli, Revillon (fur house) and Ungaro, he is definitely a man who understands the Italian mindset.
Personally I was disappointed to see no 'Pucci' prints, but in all fairness I never really liked them anyway as they were kind of dated. It did feel however that I was watching a different brand entirely. 
Dundas definitely sexed it up. Over the knee pirate boots were shown with a host of thigh skimming dresses, it was young, fun and very brassy. 

Following a stint at the fur house Revillon, Dundas obviously has a thing for fur and that was demonstrated here in huge fur coats and beautiful, sophisticated parkas trimmed in mountains of it. There is no way a Pucci girl will be cold this winter!

Prints were good, though lacked the traditional style, there was a slight Rococo in their influences. I really liked this high neck maxi. Again very grown up, but also quite fun and hippy.

Over sized jackets and tailing seem to be the theme of the day. Like at Dell'Acqua, Dundas teamed his with super skinny trousers (very indie), in hot, hot pink.

Love the turquoise tones in the collection, it really works well with the creams and salmon colours, a really lift and quite a traditional Pucci colour. 
This embellished dress is also band on trend and is something for A-listers everywhere!

Ahhhh there it is, the Pucci print, off the wall, a bit garish, but recognisable. Again, by keeping everything at thigh length and body con, Dundas is working hard to bring the brand up to date with a younger clientele.

The suit. It has been everywhere. Tailoring is back and it's definitely harsh and eighties in its styling. I do particularly love this one though. Great, strong shoulder line and cool, indie style peg legs. The little print top reminds us we are at a Pucci show, but the rest of the look is so modern it is hard to remember that fact!

Overall I wasn't blown away by it, but first collections are always a tough one. The shapes weren't overly trendy and hasn't fitted in particularly with the rest of the looks we have seen over the last two weeks. With such a drastic change at such a tough economic trading time, it could go either way. Whether new buyers to the brand will be worried about investing in a 'new,' (to them' label) while old buyers may feel alienated by the style overhaul is yet to be seen.
Watch this space!

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