Sunday, 19 September 2010

Jasper Conran

The tent was packed, no one had filled a show that week in the same way.
There were editors and Sugababes dotted about and the show started as the last few were squishing their way in.
I've seen Jasper's show twice before and in this third sitting I was again treated to a completely different look! While some designers have an obvious signature, I'm yet to work out what Jaspers is.
The collection started with sharp suiting and pencil skirts in navy and black accented with white. It all felt very calm and grown up. There were tiered white dresses, front vertical pleating on blouses. Trousers switched between skinny legs that stopped on the ankle and wider, slouchy varieties. Cardigans cut short at the waist, or were draped over the models shoulders. There was a distinct 'Pringle' 1950's feel.
The dresses ranged from square 60's shifts in a host of checks, both on solid fabric and also on sheer fabric, reminding us that Conran really is a master of surface decoration technique.
There were full skirts and full skirted dresses that hung well below the knee and were so lady like. They had an almost aw10 Prada feel to them.
The collection got more summery and we were treated to a selection box of colours. Lavender teamed with yellow, toffee with white and a host of terracotta to orange in both plain and floral prints.
Chiffon, satin and manipulated, surface decorated (almost like a broderie anglais) pieces danced down the runway as the models were free from troublesome heels and instead scooted down in white canvas pumps!
There were lots of shorts and tunics, I loved the striped tunics that worked the 'peekaboo' trend as they went from sheer to ribbon in horizontal stripes.
One of the final skirts, a super skinny knife pleat, I three tiers was definitely my favourite. Yes it was all quite classic and reserved but it was oh so beautiful and wearable for a host of ages and sizes.
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1 comment:

  1. I disagree darling; I believe Jasper has a signature form for his collections. He is intensely feminine, reserved with neat tailoring and often with floaty skirts and trousers.

    Great reportage though. Thank you.


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