Sunday, 21 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . Julien MacDonald

By sheer luck I ended up with a ticket to Julien MacDonald, a show I'd been desperate to get into for years. Showing down the road from Somerset House in The Banqueting House, Whitehall, the venue was definitely grand and reminiscent of my trip to Paris, Couture week.
The paps were out in force to cover the strong front row that included fashion editors, singers, tv presenters and IT girls. In fact in order to get everyone to sit down the show literally just went full steam ahead and started causing a final scurry from the winding catwalk that saw several models take to the floor at once, strutting on a circuit.
The show started with super chunky knitwear with raised and textured sleeves and cute fur collars. This was true winter wear that soon descended into trade mark Julien frocks. Following on from other emerging trends Julien again used fabric combinations to create interesting structure and texture to barely there dresses that combined cobweb knits and knife pleated and draped silks. the dresses were very much lingerie inspired, continuing the trend for underwear as 'outerwear' that is so popular this current SS10. Many of the dresses had inbuilt seam detailing, corsets and bust cups.
Coats and jackets were in super soft wool and were often tailored trenches or the loveliest cropped tux styles with skinny lapels and matching skinny or peg leg trousers.
My favourite coat was the caplet version that had post box slit armholes and a chic cape over the top. It was very military but with a historical edge.
Like other designers MacDonald mixed leather and suede (using panels) in jackets and coats. Zips were again exposed as has been the trend for several seasons. 
Silk jersey added a welcome break to the knit and was draped to perfection to create the chicest navy party frock. 
Trends have been emerging thick and fast this week and Julien was definitely in on them all. Sheer organza in nudes filledin slashed out details and created 'there but not there styles' as dresses were slashed away to expose skin that was in fact delicately veiled.
Winter white, navy, red, black, nudes and dusky blush pink are all set to be huge next season and Julien's collection seems to be bang on all the emerging trends at LFW. 
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