Monday, 22 February 2010

Editor @ Large . . . JAEGER

Jaeger us always one of my favourite shows of the week. For me it strikes the right balance between designer edge and consumer awareness. On the right woman it will look grown up and sophisticated but equally, paired with the right attitude (and shoes) it can play dirty with any other 'cool designer house'.
Jaeger did nothing to dispel the idea that designers get together to discuss trends pre fashion week, as all the key elements I have seen at other shows were present here at Jaeger.
the colour palette was predominantly neutral and monochrome with flashes of navy, a moss like green and purple.
The collection had quite a strong Russian military vibe but also borrowed from a sixties aesthetic in the form of a line mini dresses with funnel and grandad style collars. These came in a selection of colours, textures and fabrics that included a mohair like knit and a quilted version.
Jackets mixed military detailing with sixties finishes such as long line, loose tux cuts, skinny lapels and contrast piping and edging. Front fastenings included criss cross buckling, that was a feature also seen on day 3 of LFW.
Again fur, suede and leather played a big role in today's collection. There were several waterfall front gilets in suede and fur as well as a tan leather jacket. Unstructured/oversized jackets had a very androgynous feel and paired with slim leg trousers were well balanced. Felted wool, textured knits and ribing were all combined to create interesting slouchy knitwear pieces that were a perfect statement piece for AW10.
Laser cutting (which has been growing in popularity season on season) was used here to create my favourite cape of the week. The cropped cut, ribbon tie and delicate cut out design made it very fairytale. There were the standard graphic prints for shift dresses and blouses in both monochrome and purple/moss green as well as beige and black stripe design (quite a signature for Jaeger).
Interestingly the oversized checks that appeared at Osman this morning appeared again here, albeit in black/cream, suggesting this is a trend to watch.
The final phase of the collection saw navy velvet, further lazer cutting (overlaid on silk to create two tone and texture) as well as some clever beaded patterns that looked like lace and were over all very effective. Another strong collection by this British institution.

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