Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Tim Soar

I only made it to one menswear show and that was Tim Soar.
Tim, who stocks on the likes of Asos.com is an excellent tailor and this was show here through some beautifully executed tuxedo jackets. For SS11, Soar has done away with buttons, more traditionally used for suiting and opted for slight wrap over style jackets, with fabric waist belts. Perhaps a play on the more traditional satin dinner belts favoured by men for black tie, Soar chose to create his belts in fabrics from else where in the collection and black wrap dinner jackets were fastened with denim and khaki belts.
The collection was clean cut and silhouettes were neat. Male models were join by androgynous girls, also suited and booted in neatly cut, sleeveless, tuxedo jackets, some paired with loose shorts, while my favourite was an excellently cut, wrap style tuxedo dress.
Aside from the suiting element (all black) Tim used washed denim for jeans and waistcoats and there was even a 'life vest' style denim piece with printed darker denim pockets.
While black was the main base, cream, grey, stone, khaki, mint and forest green all accented the looks. I loved the sporty start the collection, with shorts and jackets made from coated, water proof fabrics. There were white zip through varsity jackets, wide striped trousers with matching jackets that almost had a 'jail uniform' effect.
Trousers and shorts were mainly casual, borrowing from the cargo, patch pocket style.
I loved the idea of fastenless jackets, the belt idea was interesting, although I think I'd drop mine with a leather one, to ensure that the jackets that did really look expensive, kept their style.
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Ashish

So its about 5 to 5pm and fashpack are thinking we ought to start queueing for Ashish. The queue runs suprisingly smoothly and were in the showspace in less than ten minutes. We bag our favourite location to take the best pictures and have the best view and then.. CHAOS. Soon the seats fill up.. And then the standing.. And then the aisles. They was letting in so many people that the aisles were doubled up. We had to get a little authoritive and ask people to sit on the steps because we couldn't see anything anymore.. Literally, the world went dark. Finally the room is hushed and the chaos is calmed, the plastic is pulled back off the runway and the show begins!
The first model walks out with seriously straight hair, cowboy hat, tan cowboy boots and a leapord print halterneck dress and red bandanna. Of course its made all out sequins. This is then followed by. Another halterneck dress however this girl is rocking hers with a feathered head dress. So from straight off the cuff I'm thinking Wild wild west. However, there were some other features that made me think that were some other references that inspired this collection. Following the halterneck dresses were cowboy shirts with tan trousers with fringing on the seam confirming the Wild Wild West inspiration. Then a contrasting fabric was introduced to compare to the sequin textures. This was jersey cotton sweatshirts with track bottoms in grey with bandanna print. Models wore this with base ball caps and I couldn't help think of american football. Reinforcing the wild wild west feel were micro denim shorts with check shirts in orange, blue and white...in complete sequins of course followed with dark denim jackets with chain fringing rocking up this specific look. Patchwork style jumpsuits and dresses were seen with prints of spots, leapord, check with fringed seams and necklines. Both looks were work with either feathers in hair or base ball caps. A nice collection of draped low back dresses hit the runway looking the most easiest and wearable of all the looks. These came in a variety of prints including the patchwork look. A contrasting array of oversized sequined rugby shirts were worn with casual trousers of the bandana print. This was a really interesting look as most people consider a complete sequined outfit to be a more dressy look, slightly evening however Ashish toned this down and took sequins from night to day. I have to say that I loved the music for the collection. Probably a lot more 'ghetto' compared to all the other genres we've heard so far with its hard hitting drums, bass and bashment beats but it got the crowd going. The finale pieces were long evening style no sleeved dresses with tan fringing running vertically along the back of the dress to the floor. An excellent way to make an evening dress something different than just a dress for evening.
A masterclass of how to wear sequins. Thankyou Ashish!
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Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Amanda Wakeley

I was pretty much on a fashion high by the time we sat down for Wakeley. She is one of my favourite collections, as quite frankly, my alter ego is always head to toe in Amanda.
Beautiful grecian style maxis and short slip style dresses in hues of white, dove grey, silver, tan, chocolate and khaki.
There were several white slip dresses, one with a draped back the formed a distorted bow. Models strutted in bronze and silver long cuffs and neck plates.
A butter soft, milk chocolate flight jacket with matching pencil skirt was simply, to die for!
Skirts sported pencil styles but with side drapes that created rippled pocket effects.
Dresses in silk jersey were wrapped, draped and pulled in with wide cage like leather belts, that mirrored a sort of rib cage structure. It was impossible to decipher the exact cuts as the dresses were asymmetrical and draped and balanced to perfection.
There was a wrap tulip style, draped at the sides, with a pencil jersey skirt peeking through.
The collection moved into navy, silver and fuchia/coral. There were peasant drape tops and printed chiffon kaftans and maxis. Light blue appeared again at Wakeley in full on evening. Bandage style silk bodices with floor sweeping maxis.
I loved the silk jersey and leather pieces that were ruched into spine panelled leather. Stunning!
The final phase of the collection combined chains and silk jersey, with jewellery pieces draped over the top.
The structures were built with beaded neck and shoulder pieces with a centre front and spine pieces, chains draped off them inter linking all together. The final jersey dress had. A chain structure built all over it, practically impossible for the model to walk in!
A beautifully crafted collection, that combined the style, expected of Wakeley, with futurist and modernity that came as a welcomed surprise, I'm off to get some chains and wire cutters!
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Adam Entwisle

So its the last show at the on/off space at Victoria House..(Tear) but luckily we was sent out in style. A small pre drinks party was layed on with platters of fake pigs heads, chickens and cider of various flavours. Don't worry, the cider was real. So as the we all sip vigourously on our drinks hoping that by the time we are finished we won't feel the blisters we've gained from the last 3 days at Fashion Week, we had the chance to watch and listen to Marner Brown play live their debut single 'Dirty Weekend'. After rocking it out for a while, we are all escorted to our seats. Fashpacker team had best seats in the house quite frankly but its too difficult to explain where, just trust us on this one. Graced by a schwarzkopf goody bag filled with an apron, recipe book and some cadbury's nibbles, despite the fact the fashion hadn't even been seen yet, the crowd seemed to be pretty happy. Catwalk protective film is pulled back by on/staff in socks so that they don't ruin it themselves and revealed is a shiny silver reflective catwalk. Now we are well chuffed. The music starts and the first thing I noticed on the models was their amazing beehives. A beehive tends to be to an extent round, however these beehives came to a point and put the high in hives! Panning my eyes further down I see asymetric cotton dresses in white and camel with red interior. Dresses fell away from the body allowing movement and making the red interior make sense. There were some jumpsuits that were straight and loose in fit hanging from the shoulders yet belted at the waist giving a bit of curve so the verticle lines. Cap sleeves were nice feminine touches. There were some flowing dresses of lilac and cream bubble print with asymmetric detail, as well as long chiffon dresses appropriate for evening. Unfortunately, despite the build up, once I had seen the first few outfits of the collection, I felt I had seen it all. There was something typically uniform about the collection that unfortunately made me loose interest. Some really wearable pieces but the best thing for me was the shiny catwalk.
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Todd Lynn

Sitting right by where the models emerged was a perfect location. Great view and snapping angle!
The collection was based on a muted palette of black, watery grey, silver and a light foiled bronze.

Todd's collection is always fierce and the models, like fashion warriors didn't disappoint. Tailoring was sharp and androgynous with suiting cut so close to perfection it outlined the models form perfectly. Shoulders were strong, although not over exaggerated and trouser legs slim to the point of skinny.
Leather, stitch detailed panels were used to create structure and emphasised waists and shoulder blades. It almost outlined the human muscle structure.
Jackets featured funnel necks, while fronts were wrap over, biker styles.
Trousers had two sets of fabric, with fronts and backs juxtaposing leather and tailoring fabrics.
Double zip details on pockets and straps across the body securing leather panels and half capes to jackets were super cool and a look I definitely want to sport next spring.
There were a few dresses, mainly one shouldered, tailored pieces sporting structural ideas.
One had the most amazing mirrored, helter skelter structure down one side, while others used piping/wire to create several front curves that twisted and hung away from the body.

Menswear featured and again, the same palette and tailored, structural styled were used. The half tailored jacket / half cape was by far our teams favourite piece. But we want a Todd Lynn bad boy to sweep us off our feet!

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Jaeger

The show was divided in several sections according to palette and style. While the 9am start had obviously put off some people, with only Pixie Lott and Calum Best flying the celebrity flag.

It started with a real 60's mod vibe. Sleeveless, asymmetric (skinny) collared tux jackets, slim leg trousers, ribbon crochet knits and squared shoulder coats. Monochrome, camel and khaki were order of the day and tabbard style tunics and dresses with curved hems (like a single scallop) ran in different colours and prints throughout all sections of the collection.
Shirting and jackets had a safari feel in sheer khakis, with turn back sleeves.
Sharp cream trapeze coats and front belted, loose back pieces felt relaxed yet smart and I particularly liked the leather panelled pieces. Mixing fabrics within one garments, showing a cross over with a trend showcased last season. Suede backed dresses with perforated silk fronts were well executed.

Post 60's wonderment was mixed into an 80's rebellion of royal blue showcased on sweet heart neck line dresses, slim trousers and strong shouldered jackets, the power shoulder is going no where. I loved the peekaboo surface decoration, as shown at Conran. A mixture of clear and fabric stripes, this time asymmetrical.
Monochrome accented the collection with full shorts, asymmetrical ruffled hem dresses and wrap backed frocks. Flat shoes suggested an easy, daytime glamour.

Next came the fashion forward bit. Emerald green, shiny navy and ochre worked incredibly well as a palette. The ruched, pulley, parka in ochre is top of my spring must haves. Wide leg trousers and square cropped jackets in silk gazar and organza gave a very structural feel.

Photographic florals in pink on cream and black on white represented the final phase of this visually stunning journey and featured blown up graphic, strategically placed on tunic style dresses, again featuring asymmetrical ruffles on hems.

There was a definite sporty edge to the collection, with lots of bright parkas to juxtapose the prettier dresses. The mixtures of silk and leathers ensured that collection felt both youthful and grown up all at the same time and showed that Jaeger's ability to re-invent itself as the place for strong fashion forward design is as apparent as ever.
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Monday, 20 September 2010

Meadham Kirchoff

OMG the Topshop space is amazing! I know I'm the last with the news, as I've avoided going there all week and have opted to send my team of fashpackers instead. Shame on me!!
The huge platform has been turned into a bar/cafe - with lots of drinkies and a fantastic runway.
We grabbed a drink then tried to find the optimum seat. Being the first to dash to the pews we thought we'd cracked it til, the tallest and biggest of the fashion crowd opted to sit in front of us! Queue seat hoping several times!
We settled just before the start and though it seemed only giants came to Kirchoff we managed to find a few cracks to peer out at the runway.
True to form the collection was eclectic. Chiffons and lace were teamed with leather and heavy duty cottons. All the pieces had a real punk princess vibe with clashing tones of yellow, pink, lavender, khaki, red, royal blue.
We loved the cropped boxy biker jackets in dip dyed, colour run prints and the yellow and black prints.
Dresses were chiffon maxis that had a victoriana feel to them, with tiered ruffles and voluminous sleeves. There was lots of drama. Styling was excellent. Multicoloured wigs added to the rebellious stance and contrasted well with the chiffon. Sparkly shoes and vintage-esque lace collars sealed the deal. An 80's rebellious, princess collection, with coveted biker jackets and all the right tones to welcome us into a wild spring/summer 11
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Romeo Pires

Back to Vauxhall fashion scout for Romeo Pires shoot which had an interesting start. Footsteps... I'm thinking this pays reference to the dance movements that were around in the 20's with collection that clearly was inspired or themed with mime. Both male and female models had faces painted white (typical mime make up) with brushed back frizzy hair. I'm not sure if Romeo was experimenting with gender because minus the odd few tunics and couple of dresses, everything else in the collection could be worn by either man or woman. Footsteps had stopped now and we was listening to proper music when models in pairs graced the catwalk. A very neutral palette with a lot of white, creams, blacks and splashes of colour from prints with olive, rose pink and terracotta. Nice easy styles were seen at first with loosely fitted pantaloons held up by braces matched with ivory brogues and oversized linen shirts. This progressed into an even more less gender constructed collection with draping throughout shirts and trousers. Cuts were sharp and angular forming sculptural like pieces with draping adding softer lines. There were some contrasting textures with shirts looking like they were made out of what only I can describe as: paper mache. This calm palette progressed into prints of paint brushes forming stars on tunics and shirts to skulls arranged in a bowl like fruit all over dresses and shirts for men. Skulls were olive and digitalised onto black silk where's as the paintsbrushes were terracotta and were on pebble coloured shirts and tunics. Towards the end of the collection we graced with swing music where pleating now became a staple. Pleated seams along trousers and shorts for men and throughout shirts for women replaced the drapery return to a once again sharp and hard look. I'm not quite sure what to make of this collection but I do know that the brogues the models wore were my favourite piece... Ooops.
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Ada Zanditon

Ada is one of many designers to bill her 'show' as a presentation. This pretty much means a smaller venue, with a show run several times and most importantly, no seating.
We arrived early to secure the best standing positions, its all war at these events.
The silhouettes were heavily influenced by pyramids and origami.
Triangle inserts in the top and bottom of shift dresses allowed for two fabrics to be worked in together.
Body con tops, full skater skirts and a-line shifts were the shapes du jour, as well as printed maxis and some slim leg, faux leather, light blue trousers.
The origami influence became more apparent as the clothes became more 3D. A black dress with a shovel shaped front, dresses with raised pyramids standing to attention down the front, were contrasted by body con backs.
Triangle shapes appeared at shoulders of chiffon shirts and a multi pyramid, structured bolero in gold was my piece of the collection. Hair was sculptured into cones and pyramids, it was extremely intricate and suited the delicate yet bold collection. Quilting details were used to create the triangle forms. In contrast there were several more 'easy to wear' pieces. A full back trench/cape and skater skirt in stones was gorgeous and Ada's perspex accessories were strong again this season.
The print (predominantly in red, mixed with cream and blue hues) reminded me of looking into a kaleidoscope and was used both on panels of dresses and for full on maxi frocks.
Other tones included cream, gold, black, light blue and stone. A strong collection with a good mix of wearable and editorial pieces.
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David Koma

So another rammed venue at the BFC showspace today but somewhat understandably as David Koma and Holly Fulton ran back to back. His last collection I really loved and fell in love with this collection all over again. I didn't care that it wasn't overtly amazing in but respected his use for geometric shapes, panelling and the return of the skater skirt which I was quite frankly.. Bored of. The shows began with Tchaikovsky's ballet music from lake which quickly developed into a rock beat! We was soon then graced with a skater skirt dress in pastel pinks with panels of mint green. More followed of the same genre with contrasting fabrics to edge up the ballerina look. Black leather was introduced layered skater skirts turning ballerina into warrior princess. The skirts were full and the waist were small with caps sleeves on dresses or cut out fronts and backs to add sexy femininity to the look.
Stripes of colour injected a some excitement into the soft palette yet all came to a point emphasising again on the model's silhouette. The same applied to sharp blazers that were belted at the middle. Less and less fabric was seen as David experimented with geometric shapes and racer backs and cut outs making the collection a lot more fierce and interesting. Short dresses had chiffon tails and fronts as well as side panels replaced with mesh making this female warrior ready for battle. What's left, some armour of course! So David Koma gave gold panels to dresses accompanied with huge gold and black cuffs along with leather bands around middles. Some embellishing was applied to fronts of dresses through flat square gems as well as the leather extending through to the tulle skater skirts giving us contrasting textures. I wonder if we'll see another appearance of David Koma on Cheryl on this years X factor. So yes I know there are similarities to ss10.. But I don't care, I loved it all, would wear it all. I just need a leather whip..
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Holly Fulton

Running back to back with Koma, it seems that London's new fashion generation have what it takes to fill the BFC tent.
True to form Fulton showed some incredible graphic prints. It started with a graphic, hexagon print, reminding me of shattered glass. This came in a mix of monochrome, accented by orange and decorated wide leg trousers and mini shifts.
The silhouettes were clean, favouring a-line shifts, pencil skirts, wide leg printed trousers and some gorgeous, full skater skirts and skater skirted dresses.
Aside from her usual perspex, mirror and sparkly trimmings, Fulton used an almost shag-pile, carpet like trim (a bit like the fake green grass you see at the greengrocers).
This was used a tiered trim on skirts, to create a full on cropped bomber, in black and later on it bounced down the catwalk in a bright aqua!
The prints moved on to a distorted New York sky line (repeated along and down a towering maxi) as well as a mixed up and multi coloured Empire State building. Several of the prints (aqua bases with peach accents) reminded me of circuit boards and the whole collection was a riot of colour and excitement, I didn't want to blink for fear of missing something!
Moving away from traditional fabrics, Fulton experimented with laminated fabrics like a pvc with a perforated laser cut style design. This was done in skater skirt forms and the laminated fabric draped and flowed surprisingly well.
Calming yet bright tones of aqua, peach, yellow, blush, cream and pistachio ruled the roost at this show, but the embellishment ensured these pieces were no wallflowers!
It normally takes a designer years to cultivate a cult accessories following but Fulton is as popular for her 60's style frocks as she is her incredible perspex and shiny jewellery. The fringed/embellished clutches and the printed box bags were the best accessories of the week and I'm now saving up til SS11 just so I can own something Fulton!
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Sunday, 19 September 2010

Pam Hogg

The room was packed, we queued for what seemed like hours and the celebs were out in force.
The lead of the Noisettes, Pete Burns, Jodie Harsh, Janice Dickinson, Amber Rose and Nicky Hamilton Jones.
After hiding in the loos, I was joined by Random's (unticketed) intern 'Ella'.
The show began and I was surprised to find that I actually wanted to buy things! Normally Hogg is way to out-there for me, but it seems the legend that is Pam is catering to a wider crowd too. The looks started albeit with gimp-fetish accessories, a great wood print on silk jerseys that formed several draped dresses and tops.
The usual Pam Hogg returned with body con jumpsuits, panelled to fit and mix in cream with gold and silver lame pieces. However also on show were some cute flirty, skater skirted dresses that were perfect to party in.
Although referencing asylums through straps and straight jacket-esque trench coats, the cream coat with brown straps was actually beautiful! Trousers featured ankle straps, as did sleeves and cuffs. Next came the cream 'straight jacket' jumpsuits but the tailored pockets and square shoulders referenced a fairly 70's silhouette and actually made the crowd burst into applause, it was like my Paris Couture experience, except this time in a basement.
Skater dresses developed back bustles and models had tulle, camel toned pompoms attached to their head, but this added to the fun spirit that is Pam Hogg. While execution is meticulous the approach is forward thinking and fun. The overtones of sex were obvious, but somehow would translate well to the modern wardrobe. I loved the gold sparkly no. modelled by Daisy Lowe and the tulle pom pom knickers shown on Alice Dellal. Probably the best Pam Hogg collection I've seen. While remaining true to her ever so loyal fans she has brought Hogg to a whole new crowd of fashionistas.
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Julien J Smith

A monochrome palette as well as mustard from Julien J Smith to begin with. Straight cuts created shift and t-shirt dresses yet puff sleeves were added to give a more feminine touch to a collection that felt slightly military. Dresses were asymmetric with cut out backs as well the use of contrasting fabrics. This then developed into more dresses and long shorts with pebbled prints in bright turquoise or warm terracotta along with more military cuts.
Now I don't know if this is possible but somehow Julien J Smith managed to fuse both 80's glam and futuristic together giving us metallics on blouson jackets and plenty of zips. Silver discs were another added feature glamourising this militant silhouette. The models kept in tune with the theme and hair was swept back into ponytails with added streaks of turquoise and pink. Some models even wore woven visors. Nice!
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Mary Kantrantzou

Back to the Topshop space at Waterloo for Mary Katranzou. The same set up for Topshop Unique was for Mary and we were happy as the view is excellant pretty much for everyone. The models make up as really pale with pastel eyes of pink and blue. Hair was kept swept back into a half bun leaving the focus to the clothes. I presumed the collection was going to have oriental inspirations with the music which did later show through, yet what stood out for me was a person's living room. Katrantzou's print for her collection were living room suites of all types. She displayed this on plenty of dresses. To be honest the whole collection consisted of dresses plus two pair of shorts. The lines were really straight and predominantly vertical as well as cuts being sharp and quite square. Setting the scene were contrasting fabrics all in pastel colours. Femininising the silhouette frills and tassels took place on shoulders and hips adding curves as well as pleated chiffon extended sides to allow movement to the hard structure. Jewellery were statement pieces such candle stick holders completing the scenery print. Spicing up the pastel palette were touches of silver. Moving on from a structured look, dresses took the shape of lampshade and were embellished with crystals and tassels as well as beading. This really injected even more creativity to this already innovative collection. On the whole I was really impressed with this really interesting collection that incorporated so much yet where trends were still easy to identify.
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Fashion Fringe

So finally, what everyone has been waiting for, Fashion Fringe along with John Galliano arrived at Covent Garden. A very sleek and efficient entrance was granted to everyone with a reception of champagne until the show started. Finally at about quarter to 8, were allowed downstairs to take our seats. Less people than I expected but I wasn't complaining as I held on to my front row seat for dear life. They finally announced that they were starting. As Keisha, ex sugababe and Nicola from girls aloud were taken to their seats. Up first was Alice Palmer with a fantastic collection of knitwear in a palette of khakis, stone, indigo and greys along with haphazard pleating. A complete collection of both long and short dresses but all looking just as stunning as one another. Alice did an excellent job of having a dress where its upper clang to the body yet the bottom stood away without compromising on the pleated detail. I personally wanted her to win as I'm sure you guessed. Following Alice was Jacob Allen who went for a lighter palette of pastels pinks, oranges, butterscotches and sky blue. Chiffon was his top material and draping was his top detail, admittedly he created some stunning pieces with evidence of slight grecian inspirations. His collection also consisted of mostly dresses in both tall and short form. Models looked like pretty princesses. Lastly was Corrie Nielson who had the most couture collection of them all. She displayed really innovative designs that were almost fairy tale like. Her palette was very versatile but the tones remained muted. She experimented with shapes of the female silhouette with forming huge shoulders and very, very pronounced rear ends. I couldn't help but looking at the model and be reminded of Little Miss Muffet who sat on her tuffet or other characters from my childhood. Understandably and very well deserved John Galliano announced Corrie Nielson the winner. As winner she recieves something like £100 000 pounds and is on main schedule for next time. I love that after they announce the winner, they hand out boxes of wagamamas for you to nibble on and have pre made alcoholic drinks for you to down. Fashion fringe just knew how to please us to a T.
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Jasper Conran

The tent was packed, no one had filled a show that week in the same way.
There were editors and Sugababes dotted about and the show started as the last few were squishing their way in.
I've seen Jasper's show twice before and in this third sitting I was again treated to a completely different look! While some designers have an obvious signature, I'm yet to work out what Jaspers is.
The collection started with sharp suiting and pencil skirts in navy and black accented with white. It all felt very calm and grown up. There were tiered white dresses, front vertical pleating on blouses. Trousers switched between skinny legs that stopped on the ankle and wider, slouchy varieties. Cardigans cut short at the waist, or were draped over the models shoulders. There was a distinct 'Pringle' 1950's feel.
The dresses ranged from square 60's shifts in a host of checks, both on solid fabric and also on sheer fabric, reminding us that Conran really is a master of surface decoration technique.
There were full skirts and full skirted dresses that hung well below the knee and were so lady like. They had an almost aw10 Prada feel to them.
The collection got more summery and we were treated to a selection box of colours. Lavender teamed with yellow, toffee with white and a host of terracotta to orange in both plain and floral prints.
Chiffon, satin and manipulated, surface decorated (almost like a broderie anglais) pieces danced down the runway as the models were free from troublesome heels and instead scooted down in white canvas pumps!
There were lots of shorts and tunics, I loved the striped tunics that worked the 'peekaboo' trend as they went from sheer to ribbon in horizontal stripes.
One of the final skirts, a super skinny knife pleat, I three tiers was definitely my favourite. Yes it was all quite classic and reserved but it was oh so beautiful and wearable for a host of ages and sizes.
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Louise Amstrup

Louise decided to go for sexy bee keeper chic, with a touch of safari glamour. The colour palette started with refreshing tones of camel and cream that moved into several shades of blue from cold and icy to damn right stormy!
Prints were strong, true to Amstrup form and made me think of stormy weather, blown up, swirly and strong in tones of orange, red and yellow on grey, blue and cream bases. The collection showed a host of asymmetric dresses, that borrowed the shift form but draped beautifully at the front creating ripples.
While there were plenty of loose over coat style shirts, there were also some voluminous trench coats, cinched at the waist with a belt.
I loved the body con dresses and skirts that were exaggerated in their fit through seam details and fabric panelling choices. Asymmetric skirts showed off one sided, mini, structured peplums that caged out and added detail. The cropped leather/suede bomber in ice and light navy blue was definitely a fav piece.
The fabric choice of leather, suede and silk chiffon combined hard and soft perfectly.
Louise has a strong design signature that came through in this grown up and chic collection. Put us down for a chiffon scarfed bee keeper hat!
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Bryce Aime

Bryce Aime showed some definite Oriental influences. A pastel palette to begin with in jersey cottons. Leggings were worn with almost everything but there was a big focus on hair fascinatas and obscure shaped wedges. A lot of asymmetric lines with detail on one shoulder. Bias cuts were used on dresses. The collection became more feminine with frilled hems and ruffles for detail on dresses. Tweed was introduced creating more texture to the simple cotton jerseys before. Lastly, more dresses appeared in colours like avocado green and yellow ocre with sparkles.
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Spijkers en Spijkers

Interesting show from Spijkers. The main palette of the show was black, white and camel with print and fuschia for touches of colour. Plenty of straight lines and a more masculine look but touches of lace gave a feminine edge. Models hair were loose with defined waves and make up was nude with a pretty pink lip. After plenty of high waisted shorts and high waisted pilattsos in camel, the show got interesting as Spijkers displayed black jewelled buttons on camel frock coats and a-line tunics. Following this, the collection became really feminine with plenty of pinafores and daisy print dresses. Contrasting textures were used creating a slightly patchwork look. The palette took a turn from the nude one it was before to a brighter crisp white, yellow and fuschia. The prints on dresses appeared to be cut fruits but easily looked floral from a distance. Lace bustiers were teamed with pilattsos again and also featured on dresses incorporating the whole underwear to outerwear into this very prim and proper collection on the whole. Key points from Spijkers: lace and daisy print!
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Charlie Le Mindu

Hair!
That is pretty much the feel at Le Mindu.
Known for his hairy creations he didn't disappoint.
There were several play suits and 'swimsuit styles' in black pony hair and leopard print skins, as well as traditional leopard colouring there were those that were treated to a pink based rinse.
Short shift dresses with long haired capes and a powder blush pink, tiered hair dress were the piece de resistant. It felt quite 70's at times, especially with a pink leopard pink coat!
Big pink and yellow wigs were accessories ed with metallic pink wine bottles and a mirrored hollywood sign, it was definitely fetish inspired with several models strutting in the buff showing off hair pieces and bags.
The bags were fab and were actually a collaboration between Le Mindu and Danielle Foster.
My favourite was the leather pale pink heart bag with streams of trashy pink hair flowing off it!
Red and black leopard print was the show closer and the whole room was left aghast. Even if hairy clothing creeps you out, you can't deny that this guy is a incredible.
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