Wednesday, 22 September 2010
Tim Soar
Tim, who stocks on the likes of Asos.com is an excellent tailor and this was show here through some beautifully executed tuxedo jackets. For SS11, Soar has done away with buttons, more traditionally used for suiting and opted for slight wrap over style jackets, with fabric waist belts. Perhaps a play on the more traditional satin dinner belts favoured by men for black tie, Soar chose to create his belts in fabrics from else where in the collection and black wrap dinner jackets were fastened with denim and khaki belts.
The collection was clean cut and silhouettes were neat. Male models were join by androgynous girls, also suited and booted in neatly cut, sleeveless, tuxedo jackets, some paired with loose shorts, while my favourite was an excellently cut, wrap style tuxedo dress.
Aside from the suiting element (all black) Tim used washed denim for jeans and waistcoats and there was even a 'life vest' style denim piece with printed darker denim pockets.
While black was the main base, cream, grey, stone, khaki, mint and forest green all accented the looks. I loved the sporty start the collection, with shorts and jackets made from coated, water proof fabrics. There were white zip through varsity jackets, wide striped trousers with matching jackets that almost had a 'jail uniform' effect.
Trousers and shorts were mainly casual, borrowing from the cargo, patch pocket style.
I loved the idea of fastenless jackets, the belt idea was interesting, although I think I'd drop mine with a leather one, to ensure that the jackets that did really look expensive, kept their style.
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Ashish
The first model walks out with seriously straight hair, cowboy hat, tan cowboy boots and a leapord print halterneck dress and red bandanna. Of course its made all out sequins. This is then followed by. Another halterneck dress however this girl is rocking hers with a feathered head dress. So from straight off the cuff I'm thinking Wild wild west. However, there were some other features that made me think that were some other references that inspired this collection. Following the halterneck dresses were cowboy shirts with tan trousers with fringing on the seam confirming the Wild Wild West inspiration. Then a contrasting fabric was introduced to compare to the sequin textures. This was jersey cotton sweatshirts with track bottoms in grey with bandanna print. Models wore this with base ball caps and I couldn't help think of american football. Reinforcing the wild wild west feel were micro denim shorts with check shirts in orange, blue and white...in complete sequins of course followed with dark denim jackets with chain fringing rocking up this specific look. Patchwork style jumpsuits and dresses were seen with prints of spots, leapord, check with fringed seams and necklines. Both looks were work with either feathers in hair or base ball caps. A nice collection of draped low back dresses hit the runway looking the most easiest and wearable of all the looks. These came in a variety of prints including the patchwork look. A contrasting array of oversized sequined rugby shirts were worn with casual trousers of the bandana print. This was a really interesting look as most people consider a complete sequined outfit to be a more dressy look, slightly evening however Ashish toned this down and took sequins from night to day. I have to say that I loved the music for the collection. Probably a lot more 'ghetto' compared to all the other genres we've heard so far with its hard hitting drums, bass and bashment beats but it got the crowd going. The finale pieces were long evening style no sleeved dresses with tan fringing running vertically along the back of the dress to the floor. An excellent way to make an evening dress something different than just a dress for evening.
A masterclass of how to wear sequins. Thankyou Ashish!
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Tuesday, 21 September 2010
Amanda Wakeley
Beautiful grecian style maxis and short slip style dresses in hues of white, dove grey, silver, tan, chocolate and khaki.
There were several white slip dresses, one with a draped back the formed a distorted bow. Models strutted in bronze and silver long cuffs and neck plates.
A butter soft, milk chocolate flight jacket with matching pencil skirt was simply, to die for!
Skirts sported pencil styles but with side drapes that created rippled pocket effects.
Dresses in silk jersey were wrapped, draped and pulled in with wide cage like leather belts, that mirrored a sort of rib cage structure. It was impossible to decipher the exact cuts as the dresses were asymmetrical and draped and balanced to perfection.
There was a wrap tulip style, draped at the sides, with a pencil jersey skirt peeking through.
The collection moved into navy, silver and fuchia/coral. There were peasant drape tops and printed chiffon kaftans and maxis. Light blue appeared again at Wakeley in full on evening. Bandage style silk bodices with floor sweeping maxis.
I loved the silk jersey and leather pieces that were ruched into spine panelled leather. Stunning!
The final phase of the collection combined chains and silk jersey, with jewellery pieces draped over the top.
The structures were built with beaded neck and shoulder pieces with a centre front and spine pieces, chains draped off them inter linking all together. The final jersey dress had. A chain structure built all over it, practically impossible for the model to walk in!
A beautifully crafted collection, that combined the style, expected of Wakeley, with futurist and modernity that came as a welcomed surprise, I'm off to get some chains and wire cutters!
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Adam Entwisle
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Todd Lynn
The collection was based on a muted palette of black, watery grey, silver and a light foiled bronze.
Todd's collection is always fierce and the models, like fashion warriors didn't disappoint. Tailoring was sharp and androgynous with suiting cut so close to perfection it outlined the models form perfectly. Shoulders were strong, although not over exaggerated and trouser legs slim to the point of skinny.
Leather, stitch detailed panels were used to create structure and emphasised waists and shoulder blades. It almost outlined the human muscle structure.
Jackets featured funnel necks, while fronts were wrap over, biker styles.
Trousers had two sets of fabric, with fronts and backs juxtaposing leather and tailoring fabrics.
Double zip details on pockets and straps across the body securing leather panels and half capes to jackets were super cool and a look I definitely want to sport next spring.
There were a few dresses, mainly one shouldered, tailored pieces sporting structural ideas.
One had the most amazing mirrored, helter skelter structure down one side, while others used piping/wire to create several front curves that twisted and hung away from the body.
Menswear featured and again, the same palette and tailored, structural styled were used. The half tailored jacket / half cape was by far our teams favourite piece. But we want a Todd Lynn bad boy to sweep us off our feet!
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Jaeger
It started with a real 60's mod vibe. Sleeveless, asymmetric (skinny) collared tux jackets, slim leg trousers, ribbon crochet knits and squared shoulder coats. Monochrome, camel and khaki were order of the day and tabbard style tunics and dresses with curved hems (like a single scallop) ran in different colours and prints throughout all sections of the collection.
Shirting and jackets had a safari feel in sheer khakis, with turn back sleeves.
Sharp cream trapeze coats and front belted, loose back pieces felt relaxed yet smart and I particularly liked the leather panelled pieces. Mixing fabrics within one garments, showing a cross over with a trend showcased last season. Suede backed dresses with perforated silk fronts were well executed.
Post 60's wonderment was mixed into an 80's rebellion of royal blue showcased on sweet heart neck line dresses, slim trousers and strong shouldered jackets, the power shoulder is going no where. I loved the peekaboo surface decoration, as shown at Conran. A mixture of clear and fabric stripes, this time asymmetrical.
Monochrome accented the collection with full shorts, asymmetrical ruffled hem dresses and wrap backed frocks. Flat shoes suggested an easy, daytime glamour.
Next came the fashion forward bit. Emerald green, shiny navy and ochre worked incredibly well as a palette. The ruched, pulley, parka in ochre is top of my spring must haves. Wide leg trousers and square cropped jackets in silk gazar and organza gave a very structural feel.
Photographic florals in pink on cream and black on white represented the final phase of this visually stunning journey and featured blown up graphic, strategically placed on tunic style dresses, again featuring asymmetrical ruffles on hems.
There was a definite sporty edge to the collection, with lots of bright parkas to juxtapose the prettier dresses. The mixtures of silk and leathers ensured that collection felt both youthful and grown up all at the same time and showed that Jaeger's ability to re-invent itself as the place for strong fashion forward design is as apparent as ever.
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Monday, 20 September 2010
Meadham Kirchoff
The huge platform has been turned into a bar/cafe - with lots of drinkies and a fantastic runway.
We grabbed a drink then tried to find the optimum seat. Being the first to dash to the pews we thought we'd cracked it til, the tallest and biggest of the fashion crowd opted to sit in front of us! Queue seat hoping several times!
We settled just before the start and though it seemed only giants came to Kirchoff we managed to find a few cracks to peer out at the runway.
True to form the collection was eclectic. Chiffons and lace were teamed with leather and heavy duty cottons. All the pieces had a real punk princess vibe with clashing tones of yellow, pink, lavender, khaki, red, royal blue.
We loved the cropped boxy biker jackets in dip dyed, colour run prints and the yellow and black prints.
Dresses were chiffon maxis that had a victoriana feel to them, with tiered ruffles and voluminous sleeves. There was lots of drama. Styling was excellent. Multicoloured wigs added to the rebellious stance and contrasted well with the chiffon. Sparkly shoes and vintage-esque lace collars sealed the deal. An 80's rebellious, princess collection, with coveted biker jackets and all the right tones to welcome us into a wild spring/summer 11
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Romeo Pires
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Ada Zanditon
We arrived early to secure the best standing positions, its all war at these events.
The silhouettes were heavily influenced by pyramids and origami.
Triangle inserts in the top and bottom of shift dresses allowed for two fabrics to be worked in together.
Body con tops, full skater skirts and a-line shifts were the shapes du jour, as well as printed maxis and some slim leg, faux leather, light blue trousers.
The origami influence became more apparent as the clothes became more 3D. A black dress with a shovel shaped front, dresses with raised pyramids standing to attention down the front, were contrasted by body con backs.
Triangle shapes appeared at shoulders of chiffon shirts and a multi pyramid, structured bolero in gold was my piece of the collection. Hair was sculptured into cones and pyramids, it was extremely intricate and suited the delicate yet bold collection. Quilting details were used to create the triangle forms. In contrast there were several more 'easy to wear' pieces. A full back trench/cape and skater skirt in stones was gorgeous and Ada's perspex accessories were strong again this season.
The print (predominantly in red, mixed with cream and blue hues) reminded me of looking into a kaleidoscope and was used both on panels of dresses and for full on maxi frocks.
Other tones included cream, gold, black, light blue and stone. A strong collection with a good mix of wearable and editorial pieces.
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David Koma
Stripes of colour injected a some excitement into the soft palette yet all came to a point emphasising again on the model's silhouette. The same applied to sharp blazers that were belted at the middle. Less and less fabric was seen as David experimented with geometric shapes and racer backs and cut outs making the collection a lot more fierce and interesting. Short dresses had chiffon tails and fronts as well as side panels replaced with mesh making this female warrior ready for battle. What's left, some armour of course! So David Koma gave gold panels to dresses accompanied with huge gold and black cuffs along with leather bands around middles. Some embellishing was applied to fronts of dresses through flat square gems as well as the leather extending through to the tulle skater skirts giving us contrasting textures. I wonder if we'll see another appearance of David Koma on Cheryl on this years X factor. So yes I know there are similarities to ss10.. But I don't care, I loved it all, would wear it all. I just need a leather whip..
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Holly Fulton
True to form Fulton showed some incredible graphic prints. It started with a graphic, hexagon print, reminding me of shattered glass. This came in a mix of monochrome, accented by orange and decorated wide leg trousers and mini shifts.
The silhouettes were clean, favouring a-line shifts, pencil skirts, wide leg printed trousers and some gorgeous, full skater skirts and skater skirted dresses.
Aside from her usual perspex, mirror and sparkly trimmings, Fulton used an almost shag-pile, carpet like trim (a bit like the fake green grass you see at the greengrocers).
This was used a tiered trim on skirts, to create a full on cropped bomber, in black and later on it bounced down the catwalk in a bright aqua!
The prints moved on to a distorted New York sky line (repeated along and down a towering maxi) as well as a mixed up and multi coloured Empire State building. Several of the prints (aqua bases with peach accents) reminded me of circuit boards and the whole collection was a riot of colour and excitement, I didn't want to blink for fear of missing something!
Moving away from traditional fabrics, Fulton experimented with laminated fabrics like a pvc with a perforated laser cut style design. This was done in skater skirt forms and the laminated fabric draped and flowed surprisingly well.
Calming yet bright tones of aqua, peach, yellow, blush, cream and pistachio ruled the roost at this show, but the embellishment ensured these pieces were no wallflowers!
It normally takes a designer years to cultivate a cult accessories following but Fulton is as popular for her 60's style frocks as she is her incredible perspex and shiny jewellery. The fringed/embellished clutches and the printed box bags were the best accessories of the week and I'm now saving up til SS11 just so I can own something Fulton!
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Sunday, 19 September 2010
Pam Hogg
The lead of the Noisettes, Pete Burns, Jodie Harsh, Janice Dickinson, Amber Rose and Nicky Hamilton Jones.
After hiding in the loos, I was joined by Random's (unticketed) intern 'Ella'.
The show began and I was surprised to find that I actually wanted to buy things! Normally Hogg is way to out-there for me, but it seems the legend that is Pam is catering to a wider crowd too. The looks started albeit with gimp-fetish accessories, a great wood print on silk jerseys that formed several draped dresses and tops.
The usual Pam Hogg returned with body con jumpsuits, panelled to fit and mix in cream with gold and silver lame pieces. However also on show were some cute flirty, skater skirted dresses that were perfect to party in.
Although referencing asylums through straps and straight jacket-esque trench coats, the cream coat with brown straps was actually beautiful! Trousers featured ankle straps, as did sleeves and cuffs. Next came the cream 'straight jacket' jumpsuits but the tailored pockets and square shoulders referenced a fairly 70's silhouette and actually made the crowd burst into applause, it was like my Paris Couture experience, except this time in a basement.
Skater dresses developed back bustles and models had tulle, camel toned pompoms attached to their head, but this added to the fun spirit that is Pam Hogg. While execution is meticulous the approach is forward thinking and fun. The overtones of sex were obvious, but somehow would translate well to the modern wardrobe. I loved the gold sparkly no. modelled by Daisy Lowe and the tulle pom pom knickers shown on Alice Dellal. Probably the best Pam Hogg collection I've seen. While remaining true to her ever so loyal fans she has brought Hogg to a whole new crowd of fashionistas.
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Julien J Smith
Now I don't know if this is possible but somehow Julien J Smith managed to fuse both 80's glam and futuristic together giving us metallics on blouson jackets and plenty of zips. Silver discs were another added feature glamourising this militant silhouette. The models kept in tune with the theme and hair was swept back into ponytails with added streaks of turquoise and pink. Some models even wore woven visors. Nice!
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Mary Kantrantzou
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Fashion Fringe
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Jasper Conran
There were editors and Sugababes dotted about and the show started as the last few were squishing their way in.
I've seen Jasper's show twice before and in this third sitting I was again treated to a completely different look! While some designers have an obvious signature, I'm yet to work out what Jaspers is.
The collection started with sharp suiting and pencil skirts in navy and black accented with white. It all felt very calm and grown up. There were tiered white dresses, front vertical pleating on blouses. Trousers switched between skinny legs that stopped on the ankle and wider, slouchy varieties. Cardigans cut short at the waist, or were draped over the models shoulders. There was a distinct 'Pringle' 1950's feel.
The dresses ranged from square 60's shifts in a host of checks, both on solid fabric and also on sheer fabric, reminding us that Conran really is a master of surface decoration technique.
There were full skirts and full skirted dresses that hung well below the knee and were so lady like. They had an almost aw10 Prada feel to them.
The collection got more summery and we were treated to a selection box of colours. Lavender teamed with yellow, toffee with white and a host of terracotta to orange in both plain and floral prints.
Chiffon, satin and manipulated, surface decorated (almost like a broderie anglais) pieces danced down the runway as the models were free from troublesome heels and instead scooted down in white canvas pumps!
There were lots of shorts and tunics, I loved the striped tunics that worked the 'peekaboo' trend as they went from sheer to ribbon in horizontal stripes.
One of the final skirts, a super skinny knife pleat, I three tiers was definitely my favourite. Yes it was all quite classic and reserved but it was oh so beautiful and wearable for a host of ages and sizes.
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Louise Amstrup
Prints were strong, true to Amstrup form and made me think of stormy weather, blown up, swirly and strong in tones of orange, red and yellow on grey, blue and cream bases. The collection showed a host of asymmetric dresses, that borrowed the shift form but draped beautifully at the front creating ripples.
While there were plenty of loose over coat style shirts, there were also some voluminous trench coats, cinched at the waist with a belt.
I loved the body con dresses and skirts that were exaggerated in their fit through seam details and fabric panelling choices. Asymmetric skirts showed off one sided, mini, structured peplums that caged out and added detail. The cropped leather/suede bomber in ice and light navy blue was definitely a fav piece.
The fabric choice of leather, suede and silk chiffon combined hard and soft perfectly.
Louise has a strong design signature that came through in this grown up and chic collection. Put us down for a chiffon scarfed bee keeper hat!
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Bryce Aime
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Spijkers en Spijkers
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Charlie Le Mindu
That is pretty much the feel at Le Mindu.
Known for his hairy creations he didn't disappoint.
There were several play suits and 'swimsuit styles' in black pony hair and leopard print skins, as well as traditional leopard colouring there were those that were treated to a pink based rinse.
Short shift dresses with long haired capes and a powder blush pink, tiered hair dress were the piece de resistant. It felt quite 70's at times, especially with a pink leopard pink coat!
Big pink and yellow wigs were accessories ed with metallic pink wine bottles and a mirrored hollywood sign, it was definitely fetish inspired with several models strutting in the buff showing off hair pieces and bags.
The bags were fab and were actually a collaboration between Le Mindu and Danielle Foster.
My favourite was the leather pale pink heart bag with streams of trashy pink hair flowing off it!
Red and black leopard print was the show closer and the whole room was left aghast. Even if hairy clothing creeps you out, you can't deny that this guy is a incredible.
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