Editor @ Large . . . Fashion Finds

I have spent the last few evenings applying for Fashion Week tickets, but with the growing economic crisis, the number of designers shunning the catwalk (booooo!) for a video presentation jumps dramatically season on season. 

Check out the current video look book from Neurotica, for A/W 09. I love the dark and twisted prints. The garments are so wearable but have just enough to edge to prove you are a hip fashionista!

Note how well the whole production gels together. From spooky lighting to eery music.
Oh and the Make Up was done by my friend Vanessa Collins!

Roving Reporter . . . Molessa

Don't you just love the age of the digital camera? Having filled mine up at AFW I plugged it in to empty it's wares, only to find pictures that dated from my graduation! , Paris Couture Week and LFW showroom trips! That is when I came across this pictures of some of the new A/W range from Molessa and remembered how on-trend and 'Tribally Futuristic' it was! I have actually been thinking about the first silver/nude toned dress quite a lot (actually I have been thinking about myself in that dress) and so I felt it was high time to put it up on the blog!

For enquiries about Molessa contact info@felicities.co.uk

Flats Tells Us . . . What's Hot - Runway Roundup

After all the London shows and trend spotting, I have put together ALL my must have styles for A/W 09.
Smiles rose to many faces when it seemed that everybody seemed to be using lots of prints and full length dress which were truly red carpet worthy.
My favourite collection was Avsh Alom Gur who took a playful and ironic twist to the current economic slowdown, using credit crunch slogans.

Glee for all those, who like me, were happy to see wet look leggings, teamed with Dr Martin boots, oversized t-shirts and floral prints are still chic for day and evening wear - a thrown together look. Topshop is perfect for this look.
Models seem to really be picking up on this! Luckily for them, their slender legs look perfect in wet look leggings! Don’t worry though if you haven't got the legs of Giselle, I'm going to still be rocking mine! (part of the normal sized fashion clan).

MUST HAVES:

- Dr Martins, In any colour or pattern (they're cool in any style).

- Floral print dresses and blouses which Topshop again triumph as the place to go to!

- Wet look leggings, I’d stick to black but if you’re braver than me hit the colour and head to American Apparel. 

- For really cool over sized t-shirts with cools prints and pictures head down to Brick Lane's Sunday market for some really cool bargains!

- You must purchase any insect inspired accessories and jewellery for a quirky look which a certain Roving Reporter and myself keep raving about! Mulberry did them as their free press gift and the over sized, bug brooches were a huge hit, being rocked by Fashionistas and Pop Princes alike! (Will Young was shown in Heat Mag rocking his).

- Blazers and funky checked jackets in all variations and styles, great to make an outfit for day or evening. Beyond Retro have plenty of options all that make me go week at the knees.

Flats Tells Us . . . What's Hot - Make Up

Running around, trying to make all the London Fashion Week shows; grabbing vitamin water at every venue, which became Fashion Week breakfast, lunch and dinner, which I squeezed in between some truly admirable shows, I got to do plenty of trend spotting, oh and of course the much loved celeb spotting.

Here is MY MAKE UP ROUNDUP:

Make up – A/W 09 really seems to be about two looks:

1. Pale dewy skin with a bright lip

And . . .
2. (To my delight) A grungy look, with lots of eyeliner, dark eye-shadows and a simple clear gloss for lips is also hitting the runways.

Must haves:

- black LIQUID EYELINER – Rimmel do a great cheap eyeliner.

- A BRIGHT LIPSTICK or gloss, Charles Fox do great colours and long lasting.

- A must have for every quick fashion fix is VASELINE, I live by the stuff, for hair, skin and lips.

The Scene: . . . Fashion Week Comes To a Close

Tonight saw the final round of closing parties, so the fashion crowd got dressed up to the nines to rock the night away, at some of the coolest clubs, to the best tunes but more importantly expecting free drinks!

After such a fun night with 'Heels' and 'Flats' at BBB, we decided we needed a second outing, this time joined by 'Black Boots' (you can see the theme right).

We trooped off to our first stop of the evening, Ghost in Farringdon. 

Not as easy as it sounds though. 

How many fashion girls does it take to decipher a map and a set of directions? 

Apparently four . . .  But maybe that's just us? 

Once we eventually found the club, we joined the queue of . . . two people. 

Yes that is right, two, NEVER a good sign. If you can get easily, lets be honest what's the point!

We also discovered a fashion first, a fashion show running on time! We arrived fashionably late (which in fashion terms means 30-60min late, which confusingly is actually on time) only to find that the whole show had been done! 

Never mind we were in time for the free drink of . . . beer and lemonade, sorry I meant cocktail (or fizzy fruit juice). 

Having discussed what or should I say who would make the best dance off competition ever (M vs T vs H - it's only a matter of time ladies), we settled in for the ultimate fashion sport . . . People watching . . .

Unlike BBB there was no set crowd (practically unheard of in fashion circles). Here Dazed kids were united with Vice-ers, while the Super Super crew through some shapes on the dance floor, fashion harmony at its best.

As the booze dried up, so did the crowd and the music. The rent-a-mob was off and soon the DJ stopped playing timeless classics, opting for some disco-funky-house-thing.

This was our queue to leave and with 'black boots' & 'flats' up early the next morning they disappeared of to bed, while 'Heels' and I (ever the party girls) joined an 'editor at large' who for this blog will now be called 'nikes' (yes I am a shoe obsessive) (I'm afraid the publication shall remain nameless, you will just have to guess) and friends ('buttons' and 'stylista') to head to D1's fashion party at Whiskey Mist.

Post bag-gate (is it lost / is it at home / was it stolen) we made it to WM only to get ID'd! No fair!!! After much prodding, was I really 18+ (it's my youthful looks!) we made it inside.

For those of you that have read about WM but never been, it is tiny, tiny, with pricey drinks (note there were no freebies, boo fashion week parties) and a costing cloakroom I would just keep reading about it! Having said that the music was quite frankly the best I've heard in ages!

As we shook our thing, with 'Heels' displaying some incredible 'Carmen Electra' shapes - (this girl can really move!), we attracted quite a crowd, though Im under no allusion that it was 'Heel's' skirt (to borrow from Bridget Jones, had gone home 'sick') that was creating all the fuss. 

This then allowed for a string of men, some desperately trying to compete on the moves front (don't try it) before 'Heels' found us Pedro the massusse - she really is a useful party companion.

Yes that is right, one moment, me and 'stylista' are shaking our thing, only to see 'heels' enjoying a foot and leg massage in WM! Apparently, though we are sure he was spinning a line, (he did have a card) he works for Chelsea football club. Either way, he had hands of a G-d and my back feels amazing! When he did crack my neck though, I must admit I panicked, thinking I had suddenly got stuck in some weird horror film. But actually Pedro, we love you! 

Thank goodness for 'Heels' (classy) little skirt! :-) - But yes 'Nikes' we are sure your massages are better. 

Many fag breaks later, post quick run to The Hilton to buy cigarettes from the concierge (we are a classy bunch) we had danced as much as possible. 'Buttons' was definitely tres tipsy, 'Heels' could barely stand (due to big shoes, not alcohol consumption) and the rest of us were in need of our beds, we headed off into the night (which was now early morning).

Until the next shindig . . .  

The Scene . . . BBB

BBB?

Decipher the code . . . 

Beach Blanket Babylon played host to 'The House of Blue Eyes' on the last night of fashion week. Being a Shorditch virgin (I know,  I know, what kind of fashionista am I) I had never heard of, no matter frequented the BBB establishment.

After a bit of dutch courage provided by my secret PR girls - (for reasons of confidentiality we will call them 'Heels' and 'Flats), we headed off to join the crowd of restless guests outside the venue. 

We eventually made our way to the front of the queue, (it should be noted that we were fairly lax about the whole thing, with no clue at all as to who's list we were on and to be fair we were far more fascinated by watching Hillary Alexander having a fag outside the venue than getting in.) Some how, though 'Flats' and I were being squashed, 'Heels' dragged us through and got us in. The venue was crammed, I should probably mention that at this point I'm beginning to realise that BBB is frequented by the more colourful 'Vice' and 'Bowery' style scene. As I'm past by an exotically dressed guy in full on feathers and hardcore make-up. I feel a wee bit under dressed, which is funny as I'm in pink leopard print!

Get some ridiculously expensive drinks and am served wine in a TUMBLER, I think I have fallen into some bizarre university party. 'Heels' and 'Flats' discuss wine origins (I reckon it was Tesco's finest) and start pottering about waiting for this master piece of a show we are all here for. 

Interval for much gossip (which you are not privy to, it would be far too much info and I would need to kill you).

Show starts (well to be honest no one is sure) a man falls down the stairs (actually he was pushed) - he is in a gimp mask and very little else, being pushed by a big man dresses as a crow. He chases him, then a girl in a feather skirt and red nipple tassels on what we reckon were man made breasts dances on a podium with a pasty looking chap in red leopard print pants. Its all a bit scary and weird. We huddle in the corner clicking our heels (or indeed flats) hoping we will be transported to somewhere else (perhaps a Chanel showroom).

There was then rather predictable music, think the Sex Pistols and then some predictable 'rebel looks' - cue safety pins and early Westwood knits. 

There was a couple of great dresses, an embellished body (the jersey kind) and a white cape that we all loved. The rest quite frankly left us foxed! 

Jodie Harsh made an appearance, fantastically flinging red wine on to 'Flats'. Then some more people crashed down and the nipple tassel lady, licked the leopard print, panted mans leg. It was all rather frightening. 

And then it all ended . . . As abruptly as it began. No one cheered or clapped, everyone just dispersed, had a drink and carried on like nothing had happened. 

We wondered off into the night, safe in the knowledge that the Leigh Bowery has left a legacy and influence for generations to come. While it may not be my scene, I think this particular scene has it down. As 'Heels', 'Flats' and I wondered into the night in anticipation for what new eye opening experiences we will get tomorrow night at Fash Off! Bring it on!

Roving Reporter : Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu blew my socks of last season with his beautiful, girly, chiffon dresses and this season while I again became sockless, the girlish pieces were replaced by a harsher, stronger, meaner eighties vibe.

Eighties have been everywhere but I think I liked Aksu's version the best. Again, I know I have said it all week but my 'tribal futurism' trend is really taking off!

Floral prints were somehow vacuumed into plastic, so that many pieces were partially or fully PVC coated. This was used to decorate cropped jackets and the coolest, fullest, eighties skater skirts in navy, green and black.

Again, like at Conran tops were so sheer and revealing, that tribal style markings (in embroidery, print and plastic) were used to just about cover the models modesty! (Photographers definitely enjoyed this show). Bodices that borrowed from Victorian corsetry were also referenced, with square necklines, peplum and basque style tops.

There was plenty of surface decoration and there were some origami feelings seeping through with beautiful folds, drapes and pintucks to create lovely surface texture and interesting silhouettes.

There were two fantastic jackets, one a boy blazer embellished with gold eyelets and the second, a high shine skinny, tux style jacket. Both totally divine!

Tights were ripped and models wore biker gloves to add to the rock vibe. 

These girls were certainly looking tough and I wouldn't mess with this fashionista any day of the week, Bora Aksu, 'We Salute You'.

Roving Reporter : Avsh Alom Gur

I love him! 

Gur was the very first, 'real' fashion week show I ever saw and ever since then I was hooked. I have to admit though this season I was a bit bereft by the collection. This is the first Gur season where I didn't desperately want to buy the whole lot. 

But if you as me if I enjoyed it? . . . well Hell Yeh!

This collection was definitely meant to be tongue and cheek, an ironic poke at the 'economic crisis' and it's about time someone stopped skirting around the issue and just said, guess what?! We are all broke!

Confused?! Well, the most talked about pieces at Gur were those embellished in beautiful beaded 'credit crunch' phrases. I love the irony of blinging up the word, after all if you had no money, you would definitely not be so sparkly!

Every dress, even those beautifully made in chiffon and printed silks incorporated cartoon, Pop Art style slogans. 

Other influences for the more wearable pieces was 'Russian folk tradition'. Huge skirts embellished in crochet flowers. Autumnal tone, abstract nature prints also decorated skirts, blouses and silk wrap trenches.

Fav piece: Purple, knitted tube dress and black bodice/printed lilac skirted dress - I want these please!

Final thought : EVERYONE WILL BE TALKING ABOUT THIS SHOW!

Roving Reporter: Ashley Isham

I have to admit, I overslept this morning and this was by no means supposed to be my first show of the day. However as I rocked up at the Science Museum, I realised that in true fashion week style I could have just stayed in bed for at least another 45mins. 

Fashion shows run late, after all, 'late is apparently the new on time!'

I was quite looking forward to seeing Isham and it looked like everyone else was too. There was a whole host of celebs, Tess Daly + bump, Jasmine Guiness and everyones favourite fashionista . . . Erin O'Connor.

 Front row over with, Isham presented what can only be described as a 'typical Isham' collection. There were great silk jersey dresses, draped, bias cut and cinched in all the right places, in a host of vibrant reds, bronze and monochrome shades. All the dresses really were red-carpet numbers, after all that is what he does best. 

I loved the full on jewel encrusted dress, the stones had a purple hue to them and looked like the model had been decorated with sweeties! It was most certainly scrummy!

Prints were, as with everywhere this week, floral based. this was rocked in monochrome and green tones. The floral theme was developed into embroideries and brocade too, with blue, black and purple brocades used to create both floor and shift length dresses. While white silk was embroidered with floral, lace like patterns in silver thread, showing that the metallic trend will again be huge. There was lots of drapery and asymmetric dresses, with ruffles and fur all being used in this intensely glamorous collection! 

I wonder which frock Erin has her eye on?

Seen and Overheard: Dita Aloud

Hot-ticket designer William Tempest delivered a collection of gorgeously architectural, Tudor-inspired dresses just a few hours ago (full review later), and like the members of Fash Pack, Emma Watson and Sophie Alexander seemed pleased. Assumably, so did the reps from Sass & Bide who were also sitting in the packed house at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.


Backstage, we found out a few things:
1) William's grandma hasn't planned a celebration, but she sure hopes she can take him to coffee later.
2) William has set his sights on dressing Dita von Teese, whom he's already met a couple of times, or at least Girls Aloud.


Watch those tabloids closely. With comparisons to Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, this kid is going somewhere.

Roving Reporter: Richard Nicoll

The colour palette was simple (almost exclusively cream and soft pink), but the structure was anything but: Richard Nicoll won me over with a series of experimental trenches, Chanel-turns-spaceship corsetted pieces and a catwalk appearance by Jessica Stam. The triple threat.

How boring is a white, double-breasted trench without a bit of PVC? And why wear a simple grey sheath dress when you can get one with a faux corset on the front? Everything from Katharine Hepburn-style, wide-leg trousers to white pencil skirts with half-moon front slits had my vote.

Touches of metallic gold and the occasional white glove provided extra interest, and they remind me why celebs like Nicola Roberts is remaining a big fan.

Roving Reporter: PPQ

Talk about close quarters. Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker hosted the PPQ show in Burlington Arcade, and between paparazzi clogging the aisle trying to get shots of Nicola Roberts (in harlequin-print Moschino) and Alexa Chung, and Hilary Alexander and Colin McDowell rushing through a space where one crossed ankle could mean you get tripped, it was a miracle only one person was carried out with an injured leg.

That aside, the show had the typical quirk that will keep the brand popular with offbeat musicians, models/ever-present socialites (talking to you, Chung!) and London eccentrics. Daisy Lowe started the show with a colour-blocked, long-sleeved mini dress, and Pixie Geldof stomped out in red hot pants and a matching ruffled turtleneck. As expected, brand friend Alice Dellal also put in an appearance.

The 'Proletariat Chic' collection moved everywhere from metallic-stripe jumper sets to full-length jersey 'I Love Peas' dresses to Victorian-influenced, lace-collared minis, but my favourite look was a yellow-checked wool wrap coat worn with high-waisted, cornflower-blue jeans and a vintage-look tee.

This, plus an after-party at Cafe de Paris and a bottle of sherry to take home put me in a good mood for the cab ride to my flat. Or maybe it was the chili and passion fruit shots and the abundance of cocktails. Either way.

Roving Reporter: Jaeger

It's a well known fact that British fashion editor and directors don't go to the London shows besides an appearance at Westwood, Giles or Christopher Kane. So it was a great suprise to see a full house at the Jaeger show last night.

Groups of people battled the crowds, slyly moving into the express quewe of editors and buyers, and just as quickly sent back to their spot in the bottom of the food chain by the bouncers, much to my amusement.

Tim Blanks, Alexa Chung (trying her best to cover a bad cold sore with little luck), Hilary Alexander, Jasper Conran, Erin O'Conner and Chris Eubanks (random I know) all graced the front row to see the legendary British brands fall offerings.

I haven't been excited by many shows this season in London. Fall is my favourite season but a lot of the collections have been very summery with florals, chiffon and taffetta. As our winters get colder, designers think that we should be shedding the layers it seems. Jaeger was the first show to present a solid collection of strong autumn/winter looks. The colour palette was strong, sticking to cream and monochrome, with flashes of aubergine. You left feeling that you had seen a fall show. Jackets were boxy and structured and shoulders pronounced and were clearly influenced by sci-fi. Jackets were layered over strapless jumpsuits, high waisted silver grey trousers and contrasting feminine cream blouses with black polka dots. Jaeger continues to deliver for the professional woman on the go.

This season they proved why they have lasted 125 years and are still at the forefront of classic British style and luxury. When you buy a piece from Jager, you don't need anything else.

Roving Reporter: Best-Dressed Pooch

As you know, we here at Fash Pack love anything grungy, but we also love cuddly and cute things when appropriate. Like when a shiny black pug accompanied a model (wearing a v. cute checkered dress and pom-pommed coat) through the Mulberry presentation on New Bond Street. Notice the impeccable fit on the pup's coat. 

Elsewhere in the show, the normally refined (and slightly cutesy) British brand went a bit darker, with black leather jackets and knee-high boots for women and Doc-style black boots and baggy, wide-wale corduroys for men. Some of my favourite looks were a deep V-backed, bateau-neck red printed dress, a perkier Pete Doherty look (bright-pink trousers, grey blazer and a rabbit-felt hat) and an origami-folded, black twill felt dress that felt like a more real-life version of the Marchesa number we all gushed over last week.

This, plus strawberry juice, glittery beetles all over the wall and makeup by Charlotte Tillbury made for a good start to the morning. Now, off to Stephen Jones' exhibition at the V&A...

Roving Reporter : SADO

It just isn't a good name, is it? I wonder what it means, I'm going to ask next time I see head designer Carlotta, who is one of the nicest ladies I have met!

I loved the collection tonight, even though we ran an hour late. Blame it on Bernard! Carlotta is so good with slouchy tailoring. There is something so beautifully relaxed, yet chic about her clothes.

Highlights (aside sitting on the from row, next to the husband of the lady who wears those ridiculous hats - he actually spoke to me and I didn't realise, so basically blanked him! eeek!
Oh and I also sat opposite Brian Paddock, the ex-police commisioner guy, from I'm a celebrity! I swear he winked at me! He looked mighty fine, in a stylish greyblue suit and grey tee - Everyone was so excited he was there!)

Oh yes the clothes!

I loved : The grey coat with the pleated bottom - All in felted wool! invest!
Slouch cut, suit trousers! comfy and stylish, almost unheard of in fashion.
Jersey playsuits and maxi dresses, beautifully draped! Oh so flattering

Colours : Lots and lots of grey tones, a bit of black and accents of raspberry, orange, salmon, chocolate and mustard (can you tell that I have food on the brain? - it's called the fashion week diet.)

Prints : Geometric floral - Chic!

It shouldn't be called SADO it should be called something like . . . COOLIO! (is that copyright?)

Right off to bed, pics to follow, must sleep

Roving Reporter : Bernard Chandran

Well, it only ran an hour late, that's pretty early by fashion standard isn't it?!
Our second row seats presented us with a rose, somehow I managed to get mine home in one piece, I think it has set off my hayfever though. i scanned the front row for a-list, but alas there was a poor showing of the 'who's, who' of the fashion it crowd. Probably because they were all waiting around for Jaeger or PPQ, seriously bad scheduling.
Anyway, by the time we got started, sitting on narrow benches, trying to balance my heavy handbag, flower and note pad, I was pretty excited. After all Chandran is so HOT right now!

I was not disappointed. The whole collection was sensory overload!
Incredible prints in a whole rainbow of colours (literally), Chandran has resurrected the paint brush print of last S/S. He also created, what I have termed 'the storm' print, as the swishing and flow or the colours looked like a slightly raged tornado, presented beautifully in purple and black. There was no real colour palette as there was everything there!
Silhouettes in typical Chandran style were super structured and slightly insane, pairing body con with voluminous hips. Big shoulders again reminded everyone that eighties rock and roll was back, while other daring, pattern cut moves saw circular silhouettes that gave stand up and out collars, so the models strutted like peacocks, showing off their feathers.

There was tones of embellishment, from full on feathered capes (lush!) to metal studs in great number. Totally fab!

Loved, the acid wash silk coats and slim fit trousers, the trench was to die for!

Probably one of the best sets of pattern cutting I have seen this week, I wonder who will wear him next!

Roving Reporter : Louise Amstrup

I have to admit, up until last night, I was feeling rather uninspired by fashion week. Then Jensen rolled up and Ann-Sofie Back followed and it finally felt like London was getting its groove back.
That brings me to today...
Lousie Amstrup has been going from strength to strength over the past few seasons. Having held a position at McQueen it is little wonder that this girls strengths in structural cutting and exciting prints is almost second to none. Mixing leather, chiffon and jersey and working in prints is no easy task. Taking inspiration from the 80's and reflecting the structured peplums seen as Balenciaga last season, Amstrup presented a strong, bold and innovative collection.
Coats in wool and next seasons must have, felted wool, had over sized lapels, that were both comical and cool.
Prints again referenced this idea of 'tribal futurism' and were in a mix of monochrome tones and acid yellow and orange.
Dresses structured with strong shoulders and incredible, jaunty, hip peplums (think Balenciaga) and again had that eighties come futurism vibe.
Trousers were oh, so, skinny, and shift dresses featured front, chiffon, draping.
While the base of the collection was monochrome, the acid colours ensured a chic, London vibe, that will be loved by all the cool kids!

Love Louise Amstrup!

Roving Reporter: Ann-Sofie Back

Boo! Did I scare you? If so, then you shouldn't look at one of the oversized jumpers Swedish designer Ann-Sofie Back rolled out this season, which had the three-letter word dripped across a model in a very bloody font.Although unexpected, it was appropriate for a show that found its theme in Halloween films such as Texas Chainsaw Massacre. The dreamweavers attached to tops and skirts were slightly harder to understand, but Back worked her theme well with zombie-eye contacts, Frankenstein-haired models and every pattern of jersey and denim slashing known to man.

Sound a bit overboard? The audience seemed into it, and everyone's extra treat came at the very end of the show. That was the first time I ever heard a designer end a show with the Ghostbusters theme, and assumably it'll be the last.

Roving Reporter: Peter Jensen

The Topshop venue is always a great one, because the food is always in clear sight and the champagne flows more freely than normal. But even more interesting than that is an audience that includes Kanye West (with Amber Rose and a mini entourage), Kate Lanphear, big names from most magazines in London, Colin McDowell and Lydia Hearst.

Basing the heavily layered collection on his Aunt Jytte from Greenland, Jensen showed plenty of floral padded jackets, fur hoods and wooly hats, and white boots that didn't seem nearly as hard to walk in as the flats a model almost fell over in. A few of my favourite looks came in the form of slightly sagging white bubble skirts and monochrome patterned, elbow-length gloves.

If Peter Jensen can get Kanye across the Atlantic, we here at Fash Pack predict very good things for the months to come.

pictures : Paul Persky

Roving Reporter : Topshop Unique

As if we hadn't said it enough the eighties are back! Rave culture, perspex jewellery and wetlook leggings are all here to stay. Topshop is aimed at teenagers, who are too young to remember this era (in all fairness so am I). Sweetheart necklined dresses were layered over grungy black, long sleeve tees. it was all about rebellion and putting unusual layers together. There were some great tasselled style, mohair dresses in electric shades of blue and plenty of grungy teen blacks, washed out whites and grey.
Strong shoulders and androgynous trench coats added that tomboy element, while styling saw heaps of plastic, statement neck pieces and vastly over sized, knitted, scarves.
Prints were influenced by 'futurism' and were inspired by crop circles and space ships, topped off with flashes of metallic.

It was quite a cool collection, but at the end of the day it's Topshop, so it will surely fly!