Monday, 7 June 2010

Editor @ Large . . . GFW Kingston

There were several solid design talents at Kingston and its been impossible to pick favourites!
Always a strong show I found myself writing at twice the normal speed.
Naomi Stahl's gun metal playsuit in silk, with a full trouser and soft top made me sit up straight. The front wrap trousers that fell into a soft but well structered peg leg in dove grey were heaven and the leather cropped jackets with their military details were another strong element to the collection and again mixed hard and soft a key element in todays collections. The cutting and construction were really strong too!

David Stoneman-Merret, my favourite of Kingston's menswear designers showed an array of patterned knits embellished with sequins. Long jumpers over slim leg trousers and oversized cardigand. Teamed with harem pants were totally du jour and I so hope David's knitted playsuit catches on!

Sophie Clark's elegant and calming collection of stormy prints, soft draped jackets and sheer asymmetric shirting (short at front - long at back) teamed with loose cut trousers in silver and cream hues sent me into total relaxation. I loved the draped, soft tailored tux jackets too.

Angharad Probert signalled a sudden roll of talent. Though the whole 'hair thing' has been done, I liked Probert's take on it all. Cocoon fur coats (couldn't tell if it was faux or not), horse hair style epulates and leather front pintucks on a jacket again presented us with a strong/soft collection of fabrics.

Shareen Qin's menswear of pleated trench coats that featured the SS10 Burberry shoulder (a popular choice in all shows today) had chic military elements and I especially loved the grandad collar jacket with gold buttons. Pleated panels in the side seams of trousers provided a new and varied silhouette.

Nicole Bradshaw carried on the winning streak with a fur draped coat (short to long) and a white latex jacket with camel coloured strapping. My favourite was the peachy coloured tux, with a softly tailored jacket and wide leg trousers. Very androgynous only girlied up by the tone.

Sophie Hudspith meant that I had to keep jotting (5 solid collections in a row now!) I loved the soft seperates, coffee coloured harem pants. Circle cut jackets (so sleeves were big) and bodies drapey and full. The silk jersey came in hues of coffee, camel, gold, grey and dusky pin and the grey chiffon shirt with fully draped shoulders was divine.
Other pieces to note were Harriet De Roeper's bug prints and appliques. The beetle, made huge by Mulberry a few seasons ago seemed to have inspired Harriet's white trouser suit covered in black bugs and long chiffon shirts embellished with velvet beetles. I loved the stripe front trousers that saw interspersed stripes of velvet and chiffon.
An extremely strong show.

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