Monday, 7 June 2010

Editor @ Large . . . GFW Amsterdam Fashion Institue

The AFI graduates were pretty strong but especially in their conceptual and creative ability. Perspex, pvc and plastics were the order of the day with Floor Kolen creating plastic shorts, shoulder moulded pieces and even a prosthetic style hand. It was kind of creepy in a cool way, obscenely beautiful. Again the hard/soft trend reared its head and perspex casing created fit on a draped cowl shift, while a chiffon polka dot dress was subjected to hoops that created other worldly structure. Ruffle details also softened the plastics stiffness.

Roya Itesam created soft separates. Nude, white and brown were the main palette that were incredibly relaxing and soft. There were chiffon jumpsuits, satin trims on sheer garments and side slash trousers (that I hope weren't inspired by Cheryl Cole). Tailored jackets with draped and pleated fronts saw a harsher element to the look by using leather again mixing soft and structured together. The final piece, a wool stitch detail chiffon catsuit was extremely well received and very clever indeed.

Menswear wise, I was fond of Lana Wijnand's collection that featured soft, loose shirting, Balenciaga style shoulders and collarless jackets. Draped fronted shirts ensured fullness and weight creating an unusal silhouette. Trousers found equal volume in their peg legs. Nude and khaki again ensured for strong but soft palette, accented by a piece of red knitwear that was very striking if not a little out of place.

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