The first collection, based heavily on print had a bold palette of black and white, accented by orange. The collection, predominantly shifts with oversized perspex jewellery reminded me of Holly Fulton and the print was very graphic and angular reminded me of enlarged pixels or distorted dogtooth.
Abigail Westrup's collection should not have worked. Crochet combined with leather, biker style body suits with cut out sides crochet crop tops embellished with sequins and beads. It had an almost 'dance hall' feel but the delicate working of the raised crochet and the harshness of the leather was a genius combination.
The burgundy, cream and nude palette was soft enough to let the silhouettes do the talking.
Hoping for a break, I was presented with Elizabeth Winter's collection of padded coats. The silhouettes all bold, oversized and original were very architectural and the mix of quilting shapes emphasised the shapes. Oversized monochrome studs were added to the garments to give further 3D effect and the cone shapes and angular shoulders ensured for real spectacle. I loved the high necks and exposed orange zips that added a pop of colour to the grey/black palette.
Frezia Alnisa Zaraat was equally impressive and again, crochet popped up in the collection (perhaps a return to this style knit?)
Again Frezia mixed up traditional crochet with latex animal prints that layered both under and over crochet shirting, peeping through adding a richness and depth. I loved the shredded shirting, which seemed to be produced by a knitting of fringing technique. These were teamed with shorts or slim leg trousers, embellished with gold eyelets. Again a good palette choice of soft pint, white and popped by turquoise was superb.
My favourite collection came from Gemma Francis. In an interesting twist, she kept it punky but opted for calming music (unlike most who go for full on screams!) The collection was well constructed and the spike embellishment managed to be dauntingly beautiful. Mini dresses, shaped pvc skirts and cropped jackets all made an appearance and spiked strapping like dungarees.
On the menswear side Kim West went for a flight come cave man look. Short bomber jackets in leopard print and wet look blue. There was cropped chiffon grey leopard tees and leggings with sheer panels that revealed 'bum cheeks' can't see this catching on! There was the odd stretchy mankini with navy and animal print panels and collars carried faux fur trims. A strong collection with some key pieces, I only wished the male models would slow down!!
Print wise Anna Lee's brightly hued dresses and leggings were well executed and the shoes divine! While knitwear from Intisaar Mukadam was vibrant and had an African vibe to it. Waterfall cardigans, tube dresses and leggings in traditional fairisle techniques embellished with blocky round beads was eye catching, fun and professionally finished.
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