The German university students kicked off the international show and it seemed all had the requirement of men and women's wear in their final collection. The main issue however of letting the European's in, is that quite frankly their students kicked many of ours to the curb. The strength in the cutting and construction as well as the ability to mix creartive and wearable was incredible.
There were three students who stood out for me.
Denise Pache menswear was far stronger than the women's wear, however I equally thought that when the models stood together the collection was incredibly cohesive. The print was a marble effect of cream base with toffee toned overlay and was both grunge and serenity in one. Excellently thought out and styled menswear featured exaggerated shoulders, a Burberry shouldered trench and cropped trousers. The jackets were well cut and tailored to perfection. While the women's wear worked on the same palette the more casual feel of dungarees and denim style pieces made for an All Saints kind of look.
Wolfgang Jarnach again showed a storng collection of both men and women's wear. It was all very dramatic and theatrical with the women's wear being intensely androgynous. Black, white and electric navy was a dark and moody choice but worked well with the Balenciaga hips and velvet corsets. For menswear long shirts were shown over slim lef trousers and there were several dinner jacket, utilising black and white panel detailing. There was even a skirt with dip dye white and blues.
Alexander Fenzl's 50's style selection was 99 percent menswear and I loved the checker board cowl neck piece and the cheque black and white shirting. Accented with yellow leather bomber jackets and sports jackets in navy hues, this collection was both interesting, well constructed and commercially viable.