Mr Start

The husband of Brix Start Smith, Mr Start's menswear is all about the sleekest suiting in town. For A/W 11 there are deep blue velvets, double breasted dinner jackets and a host of tweeds and checks. Forest, navy, grey and black were the mainstays for the collection and the exquisite detailing on the jackets reinforce the growing reputation of this chic, East London based label. Pin-tuck, bib detailing on shirts was simply divine and we loved the styling of 60's style polo necks under suit jackets make a fab change from a shirt or tee.
We were also told that there is a womenswear version / smaller grading of styles in the pipeline, so watch this space girls!
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Christopher Shannon

Christopher's show was packed, rather than the suited and booted look of this morning, Shannon's approach to menswear is a lot more dressed down and focuses on sportier separates.
Water resistant fabrics in draw string bottom tunics, loose fit trousers with performance fabric panels and slouch fit sweaters all made an appearance. There was lots of block colouring, with shirting consisting on several panels that made up colour and implemented the use of trimmings as a way of bringing in splashes of bright colour. Again there was that slight paisley/fair-isle style running through.
We loved the wet look back packs, that again used panelling and block colour to bring different tones and textures together. Monochrome, navy and creamy tones were accented with bright reds, yellow and green print to add a spot of colour.
Christopher's sporty, urban collection was a real treat and a great twist on the current 'suited' menswear trends.
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JW Anderson

First show of menswear day and JW Anderson brought us suiting with a twist and lots of lovely angora knitwear.
Suit jackets with colourful print hoods and quilted sleeved bombers with shearling were order of the day and duffle style anoraks were waist short. Slim leg front pleat trousers were interchangeable with kilt inspired maxi skirts (yes skirts) that were actually exquisitely produced. Paisley silk prints in blue base and burgundy based came in soft separates and a rather fetching jumpsuit style.
Tweed frock coats were panelled with hoods and back 'kilt pleats', while shirting used angora knit panelling.
There was a lot of 'miss matching' and deconstructed panels that made the textures within the collection really interesting. With sharp tailoring details and quirky separates, a great start to the day.
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Fashion East - James Long

James Long's womenswear collection, based on Native American Heritage was full of gorgeous knitted dresses and layering pieces. Classic mini dresses with tassel and frayed edges in cream, latte and red tones stormed that catwalk and knitted ponchos and unfastened cardigans were draped over the top. Ribs and fair-isle style knit techniques added texture and the collection had a distinctly Mark Fast feel.
A host of wearable, stylish bit cosy looking pieces, what could be better?
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Ashish

Ashish was the last womenswear show for LFW and while the photographers pit let out a jubilant cheer, the catwalk began to fill with Ashish's sparkly creations.
We've seen lots of tweed and herringbone this week and Ashish had obviously had the same memo. The collection, heritage based took us on a sequined journey from Union Jacks to various hues of tartan. Taking note of hippy riots and current 'pop culture' there were slogan jackets and jumpers saying 'Hard Times', 'Holy Crap' and 'Teen Idol'. Knitwear, often layered over sequin dresses, tunics or slouchy trousers were ridden with holes and were in line with Ashish's distressed, glam, style. Ripped, bleached, jeans and kilt style minis were the un-sequined basics of the collection.
The favourite piece though was the Chanel style tweed jacket, created in sequins, but with real frayed pocket edges, fantastic. Will Ashish ever run out of things to sequin?
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Fashion East - Simone Rocha

Child of London Fashion Week favourite, John Rocha, Simone showed again this season under the Fashion East umbrella. Picking up on a host of trends from the week, Simone's androgynous collection of skinny cut suiting and chiffon based shirting was beautifully tailored.
Nude, monochrome, coral and red gingham was the main palette and fabrics were mixed through the use of panelling within a single garment.
Shearling sleeves on a wool jacket and a shearling front pencil skirt were two of our personal favourites. Sheer, nude shirting used a bib like effect to introduce colour and covering more textured pieces on chiffon created an interesting effect. Furs and animal skins have remained a huge trend at LFW and Rocha managed to pull out key threads within the collection, a strong, second season.
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Fashion East - Simone Rocha

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Alice Palmer

Fresh from her finalist, Fashion Fringe show last season, Alice Palmer was back hitting the runway with her true to form rock aesthetic. Asymmetric knitted dresses with slashes, panel and deconstructed silhouettes came in a host of monochrome tones with splashes of khaki and latte for accents colours. Dresses both maxi and mini used folds and tucking to create volume and it felt like Alice was truly back on course this season making knitwear for the generations that parties hard.
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Pringle of Scotland

With a front row that held the team from UK Elle, US Vogue and Tilda Swinton, this was a show to see and be seen at.
The huge catwalk stretched all round the room and the models had to strut super fast to get round it all.
The AW11 was a mixture of knit, leather and fur, perfect!
Tweed wool in monochrome tones in wide leg trousers, ponchos and capes were order of the day and caplets both alone and over macs in leather were feature heavily. Black, white, grey were accented with burgundy and turquoise and showed off in blanket wrap skirts, the winter version of the sarong.
There was again 60's and 70's vibes with shift dress with knitted sleeves. 70's fur bomber jackets in chocolate fur were bear like soft.
Sepia tone fair isle inspire knits were mixed with fur and stripes of printed silk that revamped classic, heritage shapes and styles.
A beautiful, wearable and exciting collection.
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David Koma

Probably the longest queue I have seen since the start of fashion week at the BFC show space but deservedly so with the back to back show of Koma and Holly Fulton. David's collection was all about black body con with coloured fur pom pom's to accessorize. Staying true to form, leather of course made several appearances but it was the conservative high neck body con dresses that were the shock factor. Each with a different variation in cut or length and trimmed with different shapes of fur, the palette remained black throughout as the base with splashes of colour such as blue, green and red. Taking a slight twist, some shifts dress were panelled with tweed including the same palette of colours. The construction of every single piece was amazing and although the collection screamed more sophistication than sexy rock chick, there wasn't any disappointment.
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Jayne Pierson

Jayne's collection was Parisian rock with lashings of leather, lace, PVC and velvet. The opening pieces featured a technique that made the leather look like fish scales, adorning cropped bomber jackets that were teamed with body con pencil skirts that fish tailed at the knee. Wool over coats were square and hung from the shoulder, leather and pvc yokes were the key feature detail.
All the black was accented by dove grey and cream striped silk that added a softer look to this Victoriana look. There was a real juxtaposition between oversized and body con silhouettes, with puff sleeve headed tops being drawn back in at the waist with a layered corset.
There was a lot structural elements too and skirts had triangular piping fed in so that they stood away from the body, again emphasising nipped in waists.
Lots of leather draped trousers and ruched side seam velvet lbd's added more wearable elements. Parisian, gothic romance at its best.
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Jasper Conran

Like Paul Costelloe, there was a distinct 60's vibe at Conran. The collection started with a pebble like, monochrome print on shift dresses, as well as black and cream pea coats and frock coats. Dresses were short a-lines with front pockets.
60's muddled with 70's as skinny polo necks and slim trousers seamlessly moved into head scarves and 'Avenger' style, short jumpsuits in navy and chocolate brown that feature low slung, waist belts.
Leather, PVC and reptile style leather was mixed with suede and fur to create a rich collection that looked expensive. Square and rectangular panelling was used in appliqué format and was graphically very 60's in style. There was a skirt made of overlaid leather tabs that has been a feature in other collections this season. Leather moved into silk shifts adorned with sequins and black, cream, navy and chocolate were joined by purple berry tones and soft dove grey and silver.
A move away from last seasons more 'twee' collection it felt like Jasper was truly back on form.
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Charlie le Mindu

Charlie's show was unsurprisingly crammed. After his rave reviews last seasons fashions 'hair' man had a lot to live up and he did not disappoint. The best way to describe the collection was 'Neo Nazi, Lady-like Chic'. Not the usual combo right? The first model was naked and covered in 'red paint'/'blood' and was swiftly followed by models in clear and nude latex and pvc, lace and hair all in muted creamy tones that really emphasised the 'blood' and graffiti on the clothes and bodies. Hair was big and crazy with red dip dyed mohicans and white painted 'army sergeant' hats, with pearl braiding. White hair was used like tassels along sleeve seams and the back of jackets. To add the signature Charlie look. The final piece, an eagle head sculpture that nearly knocked the model out and was distinctly 'scary bridal' as the lace was dip dyed in wet red paint that attacked some of the front row and was truly a master piece. Charlie will surely only increase his hype next year as he becomes one of the London scenes most talked about designers.
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Osman

The Osman show was rammed to the point where half the seated folk were standing to; with a crammed front row, it's simply testament to how much Osman has become one of fashions 'darlings', becoming one of the seasons must-see shows.
Wide legged trousers, asymmetric tunics and full skirted 50's style dresses ruled the collection. Tightly nipped in waists on dresses in elegant monochrome with flashes of violet-blue. The palette was varied with red, coral, turquoise, lime and hot pink all flashing in between all black outfits. There were lashings of cream that 'wintered' up this jolly toned look. Tunics over trousers in heavy wools and textured silks and plenty of long trenches were key pieces and sure best sellers.
Again like else where in London, leather and fur were much used, with leather tops and dresses and fur sleeved 50's frocks. Little coloured lined caplets were really cute, while striped dresses in hot pink and black were fun party looks. The crowd went crazy for Osman and it seems his fans are yet again satisfied for another season.
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Felder + Felder

A new space for this years fashion week at Northumberland Avenue. This time round showing was Felder Felder and was clearly a keen one to watch with the huge queues outside. Finally seated and the heavy bass line music starts and already I know I'm in for a treat! A futuristic palette of black, royal blue, ivory and silver as well a combination of fabrics such as chiffon, wool, lycra, ostrich feathers and by far the most used... Leather. The collection had 70's inspiration with high waisted high rise shorts, leather all in ones followed in the same fashion but silver leggings brought it right back to today. There was a lot of emphasis on the female shape as most pieces were body con or revealed a lot of skin. For many moments I forgot it was an AW/11 collection but was reminded by leather jackets and wool double breasted coats with ostrich lower halves. Lastly long chiffon dresses with strappy and racer backs softened the collection however the adjective that remained on everyone's lips was 'sex'.
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Bora Aksu

Another full house at the BFC show space and rightly so with a sophisticated armour style collection from Bora Asku. A very winter palette of grey tweeds and black leather detail however emerald green spiced it up. A uniform vibe was felt with satin blouses teamed with tweed wide leg trousers however influxes of armour were key to the collection. Panelled bodices and leather skater skirt dresses emphasized the female silhouette. Lastly pieces of lace and beading for embellishment gave the last final touch of femininity! Think uniform, think attitude, think Bora Aksu.
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Jena Theo

Jena Theo gave us an awesome show at the On/Off studios. Its collections such as these that make the trek between locations worth the while! The models rocked it out on the catwalk sporting the layered look making the collection very transitional. A subtle palette of creams, greys, stone and bronze was displayed through jersey cardigans and sweaters as well as floor and midi length dresses giving the feel of medieval inspiration. Hair and make up also enhanced this factor with black bands painted across the eyes and plaited hair framing their heads. Draping and asymmetry added a gentle touch to the collection whilst skinny jeans, rouched leggings, thigh high socks and chiffon transparent shirts all incorporated sex. Chunky and cable knits took the collection further into the season and away from the transitional feel. Jena Theo included a number of fabrics throughout the collection such as jersey cottons, chiffons, silks, wool; but it was oversized statement jackets in denim and leather patchwork that stole the show for me. Both easy on the eye and easy on the skin fabrics, feminine elements and a medieval/ rock n roll vibe; Jena Theo was a success. P.S we're loving the baby bump!
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Prophetik

We always know we are going to have fun at Prophetik, starting with live, violinists stomping down the catwalk, followed by singing and swiftly followed by live music, there was also a big collection of clothes.
Prophetik is an ethical brand that uses heritage stylings to bring the catwalk and history alive. I always feel like I'm going on a journey with their shows the music especially takes me on voyage and adventure.
There was lots of historical references, patchwork panels and vintage buttons. Jackets tailed at the back while trousers were cropped and slim legged, skirts were maxi. Monochrome and denim hues were infused with flashes of colour such as mauve and pale green.
Prophetik collections are always recognisable in their style and tone and this was no exception, taking ethical to a theatrical level.
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Maria Grachovel

After descending many stairs at the Savoy, I finally reached the room where the show was to take place. With an amazing view directly at the models entrance, I saw many combinations of style.
A muted palette of pewters, ivory, stone and navy took shape through silk asymmetric dresses with plenty of draping. Classic looks were included with straight cut front seamed trousers and tuxedo style blazers. A combination of fabrics were used such as tweed coats and trousers, fur collars on boiled wool coats in ivory and feather collars and cuffs to accessorize.
There was an androgynous feel to this collection and the model's slick back hair and black lipstick enforced this. Although elements of lace and the floaty dresses at the beginning of the collection, nude patent heels and cut out patterns revealing bits of flesh help to add femininity. Throughout the collection, despite overall being quite monochromatic, there were splashes of colour such as lime green and coral that took shape in the style of shift dresses. Maria played with all elements of the sleeve through this collection showing us that we can wear long, cropped, and sleeveless this winter. There were elements that showed us this collection was slightly 80's inspired yet jewellery combined with the palette brought it right back to aztec times!
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Corrie Nielsen

I was really excited to see the new season from the latest Fashion Fringe winner and I wasn't disappointed.
Having worked at Westwood the aesthetic of having worked at the brand was clear.
Tie front skirts, voluminous pleated fronts with slim pencilled backs and slouchy trousers definitely had a couture look. Wools, leather and tulle ensure the collection had a deep richness and the full silhouettes were incredibly well sculptured.
Asymmetrical shapes were du jour and there was again a mix of 'mad men' styling. There was a perfect pencil skirt suit with a nipped waist with blue leather panelling, divine.
The show closed with several sculptured dresses. There were undercurrents of witch craft and folklore in the collection that were given a modern couture twist; give it a few seasons and our Corrie will be perfectly at home in Paris.
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Jena Theo

Jena Theo, who have moved from BFC main tent to OnOff drew quite a crowd, they had to shut the doors as it was beyond full, even Fringe legend Colin McDowell was left without a seat.
It was a move away from last season in the sense the tropical ethnic vibe became total rock chick!
Grungy tones and styling meant that these models were seriously bad ass; if fashion did a rock festival it would look like this! Voluminous cuts, circle backs with draped armholes and deconstructed shirt dresses in a host of monochrome and sludge colours. A huge, puffa style parka that was well structured stood out as a highlight. I loved the mix of leather panels within garments to give the collection a modern edge and the drapery of the silks were so soft yet so structured. Incredibly strong work, from a duo that seem to grow season on season.
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Paul Costelloe
I love that Paul always kicks of LFW and this year he was there again all guns blazing.
With a distinctly 60's theme there was a lot of swinging music to go with full swing coats that shot out straight from the shoulders.
Short, cute jackets with full skater skirts are back in for AW11 a look I am totally converted to. In bright tweed tones of reds, mustard, purple, turquoise and green the colours were muted yet bright. The wools looked luxurious and the cut and fullness was perfectly proportioned.
Metallic brocade (something Paul always done) was in 80's tones of green, red and pink, again using full swinging shifts as the silhouettes. I loved the mix of eras and the prim yet edgy vibe. It felt totally modern but with heritage twists, I'm starting to save up now!
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