Roving Reporter: Richard Chai

Richard Chai has been developing this tough-looking rock queen for a while now. Building on ideas from his last two collections,Chai presented the fashion crowd with gorgeous tartans, tough leather and fabulous furs. The muted palette of black, green, red, white and blue was combined to create edgy check prints and strong, colour-blocked separates. This strong-shouldered coat in leather had a slight 80s, Matrix feel, while the plaid dress was beautifully draped and very versatile.

There have been a fair few leather biker jackets this week, but none so beautifully tailored as Chai's. With slouchy but tailored trousers in metallic olive and oversized plaid, these were clever and fashionable separates, far too showy to become wardrobe classics, but nevertheless fun, fashionable and perfect for a kooky New York crowd.

Fur-trimmed parkas and full -n fur jackets were a nice change from the cocoon shape that has so far proved popular with other design houses this season. Though plaid is often traditionally Scottish, there was quite a tribal element to the dark tones of these checks.

The collection took a grown-up twist with splendidly tailored suiting tucked into tough, heeled biker boots. Strong shoulders, nipped-in waists and detailed sleeves turned these androgynous staples into specialist pieces. Gorgeous!

This printed, asymmetric chiffon dress was so terribly Kate Moss. A perfect choice of tea dress for the inner rebel. The print looked like a cross between ditsy floral and fireworks; it had a slight British vibe to it (think Luella and PPQ).

My final top pick from the Richard Chai show was this quirky, printed, tux-inspired jacket. The print and style were quite 80s, but the silhouette was fantastic. I love the sheer top and slim-fit trouser. Overall the collection was for the grown-up rebel, and while it definitely suits all the cool kids of NYC, I can equally see Chai being a champion on this side of the pond.

Roving Reporter : 3.1 Phillip Lim : In Detail

Though the main collection was a mixture of decades (70s and 80s), there was a prim, equestrian vibe developing here. The cut on this jacket is so incredibly creative and a total wardrobe staple - the outfits you could build around such an enigma!

Leather was a look I thought we had well got rid of, but this full, 50s skater-style skirt is really tickling my fancy. Again teamed with a prim shirt/jacket and laced gloves, Phillip Lim has combined unlikely factors to create a well styled and innovative look.

Furry skirt (I have nothing else to add).

Love, love, love these shoots (shoe-boots). There is a slight element of baseball boot to them, again a trend that has been creeping back on to the catwalks for A/W09. Adore the pastel shade and the snakeskin.

Take note: toe shapes. There have been lots of chunky pointed toes showing for next season. Also note the stitch line down the middle of the toe. This was also seen at Marc Jacobs (see Marc Jacobs: In Detail).

I have often suffered this dilemma. I have donned my gorgeous, elbow-length gloves but then want to wear bangles. Well dilemma solved! Just chuck them over the top. Phew. Take note: silver sparkle on the dress, gold bangles on the arm. It's OK to mix your metals. Also on the way: platform stiletto heels.

Disco bags: big bags are back. This beautiful leather has been jazzed up for any 80s-style lady. Love the metallic.

Roving Reporter : Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler showed a sassy and sexy collection, with many extremely wearable, yet creative pieces. While there were plenty of separates, the main show case pieces were coats, jackets and dresses. 

Opting for a similar colour palette to many of their counterparts this week, New York Fashion Week-ers were treated a selection of camel, black and stone grey as a base, accented by flashes of eighties style metallic blue, pink/purple, gold and silver.

Styling was minimal, with strong brows (again a look that has been well used by many designers this week), slightly messy 'up do's' and barely there make up.

Models legs were clad in thick Winter tights (see even fashion feels Global Warming), which varied from black opaque to patterned grey.

Double breasted camel coats and bomber style jackets were the first pieces to hit the runway. There is often a lot of fur around in NYC due to its ice cold Winters and this has certainly been reflected on the catwalk this week. 

City shorts and tights has been a huge trend in the past and I'm really loving this refreshing change this week, as this is one of the fist pairs I have seen.

 The panelling detail (shown above) was another key feature on many of the garments and reflects the cut out details seen everywhere this week.

When I think 'Bomber Jackets', I'm reminded of those ugly puffers people use to where to school. Proenza Schouler however have totally reformed my thinking! Their selection of stylish, wool bombers are set to be a huge hit. Practical and stylish, now how often does that happen?!

It is not obvious what inspired the dynamic duo behind Proenza Schouler for this collection, with their last being predominantly eighties, there were definite elements of that still seeping through. However many felt that this collection was simply about beautiful and wearable pieces. The dress coat above again gives a nod towards the cut out trend, with this sleek, streamlined panelling, but any definite points of research are still a mystery at this stage of the collection.

Metallic is huge this Summer and by the looks of NY Fashion Week the craze is set to continue well into next season. This is a fabulous little shift, like Marc Jacobs, they have teamed a gold dress with black opaque tights to give more dressed down look, perhaps due to the economic crisis designers are looking towards opulence that is more understated?

Asymmetric dresses; How many more times can I use that phrase?

Again here we see the jewel in the crown of LBD's. This dress has SUCH an eighties vibe and I see all is not lost in this collection on the trend side!

Cut outs, wet look/velvet sections, twists and drapes this is one LBD that has the lot. Again the slightly less elegant shoes give it this hip, toned down vibe, favoured by the NY cool kids.

These last two party frocks were to me the jewel in the crown. 

Aside from the vibrant and uplifting colours, the slashed details are simply divine and though working along the lines of themes I have already seen this week were really quite refreshing and interesting. 

Proenza Schouler has developed a collection that incorporates wearable, classics, with fantastic party frocks that are sure to be the talk of fashion editors everywhere!

Roving Reporter: Halston

Halston, like its London counterpart Ossie Clark, is another resurrected brand. Last winter saw Halston present stunning maxi gowns in simple, classic and beautiful silks. This season however the vibe was more grungy and though the brand is pre-80s, it decided to utilise a bit of punk.

There was an oversized mohair red jumper, acid-bright shifts and wet-look skinny trousers teamed with the sleekest of boy blazers. Styling consisted of bizarre hairlike clutches and snake-effect scarves. This was by no means Studio 54 - this was far more punk-couture.

Harem pants, which are a huge hit this S/S (why?), are here again at Halston, this time massively oversized and in a gorgeous electric blue. (From an LFW preview of a certain designer friend, I know that Halston are not the only ones to be doing blue harems). This teamed with another androgynous blazer, with a weave of sparkle. Do love that it's paired with a vest top though? Bring out the H&M basics to go with your most voluminous, over-the-top pieces to add a relaxed, just-thrown-together look.

A psychedelic-printed stripe dress took asymmetry into its third season. In line with trendspotting, Halston also displayed the cut-out look with a full-fronted, black jersey draped dress with a slashed-out back.

Finally Halston gave a nod to the embellishment trend with a sparkly disco mini dress. Great for a boogie on the LA party season, but how typically New York this collection is is yet to be seen.

A move away from last season, it seems that Halston is trying to mix current trends with brand identity. It now depends on whether Halston followers love it for its hallmarks or simply buy into the current creative vision.

Roving Reporter: Marc Jacobs : In Detail

Marc Jacobs' huge empire includes a healthy chunk in the accessories sector.

So lets take an in-depth look into the detail of the off-the-chart Jacobs runway show.

Shoe-boots (shoots) were a huge, huge trend last year and they are set for a comeback. Check out those clog-style molded toes. Bizarre or hot? Baby-pink bows with harsh black satin. Very rock, very Madonna. Tell us what you think.

Firstly, if you have a bicycle chain, may I suggest you save some cash, spray it pink and wear it as neck adornment for next season perhaps? Love this mad oversizing of things. Just check out these radical sunglasses - 3D cinema anyone? Seriously, when it comes to A/W09...size really does matter.

Leg warmers, tights - who knows? Either way, Jacobs has cunningly mixed 80s insanity with chic 17th-century rococo to create this fabulous print. It's like a rebels' tea party!

When in doubt, add some bling. If you're still not sure, add a bit more! Alternatively, get a needle and thread and start sewing old and broken jewels to jumpers to create your very own catwalk looks.

Though the financial crisis has promised to kill off the crave for it bags, this piece of arm candy could change that. With 80s (I know, yawn!) being the main theme, keep it all studded. I have to admit I love the classic Chanel-style quilting with the rock-chic edge.

There were bug-eye shades and aviators, and now we have continent-sized ones. That must have been one hefty fashion party to require such gigantic eyewear the next day. Note the antique-style coat. Again, jazz up old wool coats with antique buttons and gems from Button Queen or Cloth House.

Netted lace, so Madonna in those rebel years. I love the way it looks so much like a tattoo. Tres cool.

So fashion folks, there you have it, Marc Jacobs in detail. The top seasons trends and how to DIY. Be sure to let us know what you think.

Roving Reporter: Marc Jacobs

If everyone was trying to be subtle about their love of the 80s for A/W09, then no one sent Marc Jacobs the memo...

V-neck, oversized grey jumpers (actually what I had to wear to school), were teamed with full, hip-enhancing miniskirts in cute prints. Opaque tights and tightly coiffed hair sealed the school girl look, while the crazy ruched gloves and brightly hued neck scarf added that flash of teenage rebellion.

As with so many others this week, strong shoulders were a huge trend at the Jacobs show. Whilst still keeping the uniform grey tones, miniskirts and fur show that these weren't just any school girls, but the glam, upstate New York ones. If they were to add a British kid to Gossip Girl, she would so dress like this.

Whilst everyone is concentrating on cut-outs this week, we were pleased to see a more developed twist at Marc's show. Here fabric has been slashed away from the top, dark layer (note the bandage-style silhouette), to reveal a more spicy and invigorating hot-pink print peeking through.

Again, this was an extremely 80s disco look, from the cutest shoots (shoe-boots), to the Pat Butcher earrings. Take Note: asymmetric dresses have been big this week too, but more interestingly instead of the one-shoulder look of past seasons, we are seeing a shift towards one-sleeved dresses.

High-waisted, pinstripe peg legs; Unlike Donna Karan, this is not classic workwear. Jacobs does a retro twist to his city slicker looks and we love it. While Karan is catering to the tough city ladies of New York, Jacobs is hanging out with the cool kids on the block - dressing women with a sense of style and who love humour and ironic twists to their wardrobes. This origami top is totally outrageous and the soft, golden meringue peaks are very brassy. Remember, Marc Jacobs is not for the shy and retiring!

I couldn't help but chuckle at this look. Its so Bowie/Ziggy Stardust. Strong shoulders, peplum on the waist, crazy psychedelic prints. This is the 80s reincarnated and I love it. Jackets with structured shoulders will be huge this A/W. Check out the cut out detailing on the neckline here: two trends in one. Though the model looks like she has a mullet, she is redeemed by the peg leg, ankle ruche-effect jeans. Now that is a style I can see being championed on the high street.

I've come over all giddy on this one. I LOVE gold and this dress is now my fantasy piece for next season. Already a big trend this summer, metallic (influenced by a new 80s revival) is set to still be huge by fall. The styling on this number is perfect. While the gold full-tucked skirt and structured shoulder is fairly dramatic, pairing with a simple belt and tights has made this outrageous piece pretty wearable. In fact I would dress it down with a black polo and cute, suede, shoe boots. Goodness me, I want that dress!

Cocoon coats started to put in an appearance this week, seeing a revival of the much loved winter silhouette. While cool and cozy, this style must be cinched with a belt to avoid looking like a marshmallow penguin. I adore this fur trim and the polka-dot weave is incredibly retro.

Colours at Jacobs were pretty loud and proud. There was a little bit of everything with Marc showing one of the biggest collections so far this week, with around 60 looks total. From canary-crazy yellow, bubblegum pink, forest greens and blazing blue, there was a total rainbow. This was all topped off with accents of metallic tones and held together by the uniform black opaque tights.

Pea-green coat anyone? Bright coats have been really huge for the past couple of seasons. These back-to-basic brights are a sure winner. I love the colour combo here and look forward to wrapping up in cheerful wool trenches and soft scarves to banish the miserable weather.

While trouser legs remained pegged, skirts yet again appeared to be heading back towards last summer's skater style. Short and flirty, these ditsy-print florals were bright and cheery. It's also important to remember that while these appear to be heavy silks or satins, you can keep wearing your summer florals into fall by teaming with thick tights. (Just a little credit-crunch tip for you)

I'm giggling quietly to myself at the state of these poor models locks. If 80s is coming back (and I think it's pretty obvious that it is) then I'm hoping we can leave the Boy George haircuts at home. Another strong and playful jacket silhouette. Loved the angular cut. It had quite a futuristic sports feel to it, which went well with the foil-esque skirt. Again long gloves - seriously the writing is on the wall, fashion folk!

Perfect in pink, this showed a move away from the earlier outerwear styles and oversized piece to total 80s body-con. This shift-style dress looks almost molded around the bust and waist. Very Lady GaGa. Interestingly styled with the in-your-face scarf.

The schoolgirl look began to return towards the end, with the black neck tie once more in the styling. This particular look was a lot darker and more gothic than the shiny, pop-80s look of earlier pieces. Again strong shoulders and flashes of electrifying turquoise showed versatility and fun in a kooky collection.

Finally! Loved this last piece of monochrome magic. Puff-ball, square shoulders, big hair and black lips...off to the school disco then?

Roving Reporter : Donna Karan

Having shown diffusion line DKNY early in the week, it was now time for our second installment of the global brand. Donna Karan is well known for power dressing. Being a New York-based label, collections are made to represent the city's high-flying women. This meant that the collection, as usual, managed to combine just the right amount of sexiness and strength that NYC ladies need.

First up were sleek workwear separates. Donna has gone for high roll necks for next season, with high neck lines featuring on everything from work to eveningwear. There was also plenty of jersey - this draped-front top is a beautiful, timeless piece and I have a feeling that Donna Karan will do well out of the current trend to buy excellent quality basics.

Pencil skirts were another key piece. As a signature to power dressing, every woman should own a black, pencil skirt. I love the up-date version in a slight wet look.

Donna Karan mainline is always influenced heavily by 80s power dressing, and this was no exception. Again blazer-style jackets, squared-off shoulders and boxy cuts give a nod to the Thatcher look. The looks cleverly cinched at the waist with a belt to give a more feminine feel.

Great new trouser shape too. Sitting on the ankle, with quite a loose silhouette, this is neither boyish nor begged, but a real androgynous look.

I totally adore camel-coloured coats. It's a weird obsession, I know, but there is something so rich and chic about it (naturally, little grungy me couldn't pull it off). With global warming (yawn), making us have ice-cold winters, this belted coat is smart outerwear. There's this real city-man feel, only feminised by the belt.

The colour palette was quite muted - black, grey and camel - with accents of vibrant blue and berry. I love these bright hues to add a touch of lightness. Even New York needs colour!

Again oversized shoulders and cinched waists added to an hourglass 80s look. The mid-length skirt came across a bit frumpy, but as a strong commercial piece that can work for various age groups.

In detail: If it isn't cinched ladies, it won't cut it next season! Love the front patch pockets too, (and yes the fur). So practical!

Capes and three-quarter kimono sleeves were huge for outerwear last year, and having invested in my cape (and long gloves), I'm pleased to see Donna championing it again here. A great sleeve shape, and the stunning fur neckline looked very cosy for those icy New York winters.

One of Donna Karan's top sellers is her outerwear, probably because these are great investment pieces. This leather, oversized lapel number is absolutely gorgeous and if your budget will stretch, definitely worth the investment. A great leather jacket never goes out of style.

Take note of the oversized jewels on show. Donna's models were adorned with baubles and more crafty, tribal pieces, in a mixture of gold, silver and copper. Normally a no-no, this metal mix is definitely a big, clunky yes. Statement jewels has been a reoccurring trend that is thankfully set to continue.

Sexy shoes were all the rage at the Donna Karen show. I adore this oh so slighty slutty leopard-print pair! Platform heels, straps and sexy zips: these are a tall order and very 80s.

Love the studs on the shoe, do not however envy the model. Though they look a wee bit high for me, it's good to see that two shoe trends from past seasons are carrying on. Zips on heels, again from a bygone era, still totally cool though; and studs on heels - thank goodness those studded Louboutins aren't past it yet!

Embellishment has been huge again on the NY catwalks. Mainly taking an 80s twist, this military style jacket is totally fab (even if it's a bit Adam and the Ants).

I am a huge champion of jersey in evening wear, so imagine me whooping when I saw the next few looks! Bias cutting, drapery, glamorous and understated: could you want anything else from a dress?

Love this skin-tight number. Herve Leger, eat your heart out. Again Donna has gone for a high neck (so not one for the busty girls), but I can totally see Keira Knightley in a number like this. Like the belt too, - adds a focal point. Berry, berry beautiful indeed!

I thought I'd ended on a craft piece. Most of the collection was about simple, classic, investment pieces. All beautifully designed and tailored. However I love this last red-carpet number for its innovative and creative silhouette. The bronzed colour is luscious, the belt makes it edgy and it is overall one of my favourites from the collection.