Showing posts with label embellishment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label embellishment. Show all posts

Tuesday, 17 February 2009

Roving Reporter: Marc Jacobs

If everyone was trying to be subtle about their love of the 80s for A/W09, then no one sent Marc Jacobs the memo...



As with so many others this week, strong shoulders were a huge trend at the Jacobs show. Whilst still keeping the uniform grey tones, miniskirts and fur show that these weren't just any school girls, but the glam, upstate New York ones. If they were to add a British kid to Gossip Girl, she would so dress like this.

Whilst everyone is concentrating on cut-outs this week, we were pleased to see a more developed twist at Marc's show. Here fabric has been slashed away from the top, dark layer (note the bandage-style silhouette), to reveal a more spicy and invigorating hot-pink print peeking through.

Again, this was an extremely 80s disco look, from the cutest shoots (shoe-boots), to the Pat Butcher earrings. Take Note: asymmetric dresses have been big this week too, but more interestingly instead of the one-shoulder look of past seasons, we are seeing a shift towards one-sleeved dresses.

High-waisted, pinstripe peg legs; Unlike Donna Karan, this is not classic workwear. Jacobs does a retro twist to his city slicker looks and we love it. While Karan is catering to the tough city ladies of New York, Jacobs is hanging out with the cool kids on the block - dressing women with a sense of style and who love humour and ironic twists to their wardrobes. This origami top is totally outrageous and the soft, golden meringue peaks are very brassy. Remember, Marc Jacobs is not for the shy and retiring!

I couldn't help but chuckle at this look. Its so Bowie/Ziggy Stardust. Strong shoulders, peplum on the waist, crazy psychedelic prints. This is the 80s reincarnated and I love it. Jackets with structured shoulders will be huge this A/W. Check out the cut out detailing on the neckline here: two trends in one. Though the model looks like she has a mullet, she is redeemed by the peg leg, ankle ruche-effect jeans. Now that is a style I can see being championed on the high street.

I've come over all giddy on this one. I LOVE gold and this dress is now my fantasy piece for next season. Already a big trend this summer, metallic (influenced by a new 80s revival) is set to still be huge by fall. The styling on this number is perfect. While the gold full-tucked skirt and structured shoulder is fairly dramatic, pairing with a simple belt and tights has made this outrageous piece pretty wearable. In fact I would dress it down with a black polo and cute, suede, shoe boots. Goodness me, I want that dress!

Cocoon coats started to put in an appearance this week, seeing a revival of the much loved winter silhouette. While cool and cozy, this style must be cinched with a belt to avoid looking like a marshmallow penguin. I adore this fur trim and the polka-dot weave is incredibly retro.

Colours at Jacobs were pretty loud and proud. There was a little bit of everything with Marc showing one of the biggest collections so far this week, with around 60 looks total. From canary-crazy yellow, bubblegum pink, forest greens and blazing blue, there was a total rainbow. This was all topped off with accents of metallic tones and held together by the uniform black opaque tights.

Pea-green coat anyone? Bright coats have been really huge for the past couple of seasons. These back-to-basic brights are a sure winner. I love the colour combo here and look forward to wrapping up in cheerful wool trenches and soft scarves to banish the miserable weather.

While trouser legs remained pegged, skirts yet again appeared to be heading back towards last summer's skater style. Short and flirty, these ditsy-print florals were bright and cheery. It's also important to remember that while these appear to be heavy silks or satins, you can keep wearing your summer florals into fall by teaming with thick tights. (Just a little credit-crunch tip for you)

I'm giggling quietly to myself at the state of these poor models locks. If 80s is coming back (and I think it's pretty obvious that it is) then I'm hoping we can leave the Boy George haircuts at home. Another strong and playful jacket silhouette. Loved the angular cut. It had quite a futuristic sports feel to it, which went well with the foil-esque skirt. Again long gloves - seriously the writing is on the wall, fashion folk!

Perfect in pink, this showed a move away from the earlier outerwear styles and oversized piece to total 80s body-con. This shift-style dress looks almost molded around the bust and waist. Very Lady GaGa. Interestingly styled with the in-your-face scarf.

The schoolgirl look began to return towards the end, with the black neck tie once more in the styling. This particular look was a lot darker and more gothic than the shiny, pop-80s look of earlier pieces. Again strong shoulders and flashes of electrifying turquoise showed versatility and fun in a kooky collection.

Finally! Loved this last piece of monochrome magic. Puff-ball, square shoulders, big hair and black lips...off to the school disco then?

Roving Reporter : Donna Karan

Having shown diffusion line DKNY early in the week, it was now time for our second installment of the global brand. Donna Karan is well known for power dressing. Being a New York-based label, collections are made to represent the city's high-flying women. This meant that the collection, as usual, managed to combine just the right amount of sexiness and strength that NYC ladies need.

First up were sleek workwear separates. Donna has gone for high roll necks for next season, with high neck lines featuring on everything from work to eveningwear. There was also plenty of jersey - this draped-front top is a beautiful, timeless piece and I have a feeling that Donna Karan will do well out of the current trend to buy excellent quality basics.

Pencil skirts were another key piece. As a signature to power dressing, every woman should own a black, pencil skirt. I love the up-date version in a slight wet look.

Donna Karan mainline is always influenced heavily by 80s power dressing, and this was no exception. Again blazer-style jackets, squared-off shoulders and boxy cuts give a nod to the Thatcher look. The looks cleverly cinched at the waist with a belt to give a more feminine feel.
Great new trouser shape too. Sitting on the ankle, with quite a loose silhouette, this is neither boyish nor begged, but a real androgynous look.

I totally adore camel-coloured coats. It's a weird obsession, I know, but there is something so rich and chic about it (naturally, little grungy me couldn't pull it off). With global warming (yawn), making us have ice-cold winters, this belted coat is smart outerwear. There's this real city-man feel, only feminised by the belt.

The colour palette was quite muted - black, grey and camel - with accents of vibrant blue and berry. I love these bright hues to add a touch of lightness. Even New York needs colour!

Again oversized shoulders and cinched waists added to an hourglass 80s look. The mid-length skirt came across a bit frumpy, but as a strong commercial piece that can work for various age groups.

In detail: If it isn't cinched ladies, it won't cut it next season! Love the front patch pockets too, (and yes the fur). So practical!

Capes and three-quarter kimono sleeves were huge for outerwear last year, and having invested in my cape (and long gloves), I'm pleased to see Donna championing it again here. A great sleeve shape, and the stunning fur neckline looked very cosy for those icy New York winters.

One of Donna Karan's top sellers is her outerwear, probably because these are great investment pieces. This leather, oversized lapel number is absolutely gorgeous and if your budget will stretch, definitely worth the investment. A great leather jacket never goes out of style.

Take note of the oversized jewels on show. Donna's models were adorned with baubles and more crafty, tribal pieces, in a mixture of gold, silver and copper. Normally a no-no, this metal mix is definitely a big, clunky yes. Statement jewels has been a reoccurring trend that is thankfully set to continue.

Sexy shoes were all the rage at the Donna Karen show. I adore this oh so slighty slutty leopard-print pair! Platform heels, straps and sexy zips: these are a tall order and very 80s.

Love the studs on the shoe, do not however envy the model. Though they look a wee bit high for me, it's good to see that two shoe trends from past seasons are carrying on. Zips on heels, again from a bygone era, still totally cool though; and studs on heels - thank goodness those studded Louboutins aren't past it yet!

Embellishment has been huge again on the NY catwalks. Mainly taking an 80s twist, this military style jacket is totally fab (even if it's a bit Adam and the Ants).

I am a huge champion of jersey in evening wear, so imagine me whooping when I saw the next few looks! Bias cutting, drapery, glamorous and understated: could you want anything else from a dress?

Love this skin-tight number. Herve Leger, eat your heart out. Again Donna has gone for a high neck (so not one for the busty girls), but I can totally see Keira Knightley in a number like this. Like the belt too, - adds a focal point. Berry, berry beautiful indeed!

I thought I'd ended on a craft piece. Most of the collection was about simple, classic, investment pieces. All beautifully designed and tailored. However I love this last red-carpet number for its innovative and creative silhouette. The bronzed colour is luscious, the belt makes it edgy and it is overall one of my favourites from the collection.