Roving Reporter . . . Pick of the Day

I was having my daily browse of Topshop when I came across this fab studded dress! With the weather warming up this punk number is great with leggings and a pair of battered gladiator sandals!

Click Here to Go Straight to Topshop to BUY

Roving Reporter : Vivienne Westwood

Westwood, who has already shown in London showed a massive collection of her Gold Label. It was a diverse and creative collection, full of grungy tones, foiled tees and patterned shiny leggings.

There were fab, day dresses (see above) that played with twists and drapes often seen in the Westwoods Red collection too. Shiny boots and slight mismatched colours were all so typical of the Westwood looks we know and adore.

There were plenty of celeb faces, including Pamela Anderson, apparently the current Westwood muse! 

My favourite looks, which wouldn't load on to the blog today! Was a fab psychedelic weaved fabric that felt like Matthew Williamson on acid!

Ever wanted THE 'Sex and the City' dress that Carrie wore, but thought 'if only it was slightly shorter and more peacock like?'

In which case this last look is for you!

Roving Reporter : Balenciaga

Balenciaga went all girly on us today! 

The collection that sticks most in everyones mind, is the strong, space like peplums of a few seasons ago. But gone were the hard edges and ushered in was a much softer and feminine look. Cute, draped, balloon, style skirts were teamed with slashed to the navel blouses, with lovely ruche detailing at the shoulder (quite 30's).

It was quite a youthful look and they sent this idea down the runway in a host of colours, from peach/salmon to light blue. 

Paintbrush, stroke, prints were also extremely popular. This style has resurfaced for A/W 09, although on a much smaller scale to its first outing in the Summer (2008).

Shirt dresses featured eighties shoulders, but definitely felt more DVF than Balenciaga. I was fairly surprised, but this was a far more economical move than a fashion forward thinking look.

 
Trouser shapes remained slim fit and straight, while jackets were quite business like but jazzed up with print. 

This wasn't a particularly invigorating and inn0vative collection, but with Balenciaga's main target market being slightly older than some designers, the whole look made business like sense, but thats not what we like about fashion week!

Roving Reporter : Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci always does beautifully feminine looks. 

Paris, saw her present a slightly Dior-esque collection of full, fluted skirts, that graduated from short to long. The cinched in waists allowed for the skirts to flounce out into incredible peplums that then danced to the ground.

Fabric was incredible, mixing A/W 09 love of sparkle and brocade.

This was eighties but with a grand twist.

OMG! BOOTS! So Boy George, so BRILL!

Love the tuxedo, Milan saw designers putting in the signature tux into each collection and Paris is following suit. Again check out the strong shoulders!

Very sassy, sexy and Spanish. Red hues have been EVERYWHERE! Though the mainly black collection was accented with flashes of hot pink and turquoise (yes it will be a trend), red has also been so incredibly popular. 

A lovely collection with gorgeous shapes, tres Ricci

Roving Reporter : Rick Owens

Rick Owens AKA 'Master of the Leather Jacket' has struck gold again, here in Paris. He presented a beautifully muted collection of skinny trousers, asymmetrically, interestingly cut jackets and tunic style tops. 
The whole palette consisted of black, pale gold and icy grey/blue. It was incredibly calming and again signified an arrival at beautiful, well made but simplified dressing.

The jackets were the main focus point of the show and the interesting and brilliant silhouettes were creative, yet so wearable. If we are going to be investing in quality, then we should all be buying Rick Owens. True Genius! 

Runway Round Up : Milan

So what did we learn from Milan?

When times get tough, the Fashion crowd dig in their heels, fill up their champagne glasses and ride it out!

Though there were designers who showed smaller collections, those who switched to presentations and even a couple who showed when their collections actually ability to be put in to production is still in doubt, fashion was still alive and kicking in Milan.

We saw fab furs, gorgeous suiting and superb mini capes. There were some brilliant basics, such as outerwear from Max Mara and while there were those that went OTT (yes we mean you D&G) over all Fashionista's created beautiful collections that left the drama behind and focused on wearability. 

All that is left to see is who will survive, who the buyers will go for and whether price points will be lower . . . Either way you will find it all here at Fash-Pack!

Roving Reporter : Dsquared

Starbucks?! At a fashion show?! On the run way?! What the @*%^?!

I'd say this shows the true credit crunch, when champagne is gone and ice latte's  are in, but in all fairness I think champagne is cheaper than the Starbucks! I would actually quite like to go to a show and be served an ice something-or-other, but to watch the models?!

Oh how hip that makes Dsquared! :-)

Loved the whole collection though. 

Incredibly youthful and fun, there was denim, ruffles, silk, hot colour, waistcoats, trenches and jackets.

Tartan, which has had a fair bit of usage throughout the shows in London, made a brief stop here. There were rock chic tee shirts and wet look leggings. My favourite was the feathered skirt (shown below).
A rock collection, cool, loaded up styling to represent a generation of kids with money to spend and fun to have!

Roving Reporter : Max Mara

More red! 

Max Mara do great suiting, tailoring and wearable outerwear. There is no airs and graces here, just good, honest, beautiful clothing. 

I have bought (for clients) trouser suits here and deem them some of the most gorgeous and chic in all the land!

Again it is the idea of mismatched tailoring, shown earlier in the week. This is a cunning bid by design houses to tell everyone that mix and match is cool in a bid to sell more pieces. It is all about versatile, investment, buys now sweetie!

Love this coat. Cropped sleeve (perfect for long gloves), great colour too.

I loved the neutral palette at Max Mara, winter whites, black, gun metal grey and natural tans accented by red, Perfect!

Roving Reporter : Fendi

Fendi have a habit of creating a signature accessory each season, whether the 'Spy' or the 'B', there is always something to lust after. Personally I'm still having accessory ache from not being able to afford (or appropriately wear) the cool belts they did with the giant buckles. I resisted buying the fakes (I don't do fake - I'd rather just go without thank you!) but this season, with talk of the IT bag being passe, it seems the clothes at Fendi were doing all the talking.

Mini Capes! They have been shown on a host of catwalks, this trend started a couple of seasons ago (in both mini and full) but never took off, mainly because capes are fun, but also incredibly impractical (I should know, I bought into it, it's gorgeous but a pain).

Will the mini take off again? I doubt it, But I really hope so, they're so cute!

I couldn't help feel that there was a bit of 'Joan of Arc' feel to the collection, slightly ancient warrior. Love this leather bodice with wool!

Again very warrior princess, velvet has been huge for A/W 09, especially in this burnt red!

Playsuits, they are creeping back in, they probably will be around forever, after all who doesn't want to wear a one piece!

Roving Reporter : Dolce and Gabbana

With diffusion line D & G having shown earlier in the week, these two are definitely old hats at this! 

Taking influence from screen sirens and 50's film era, they presented a gorgeous collection of chic clothes that showed both wearability and creativity. 

Hot pink was again the IT colour of the show, suggesting that come Sept/Oct, we will be all wrapped up in this mad hue. 

Marilyn Monroe was definitely the muse for this collection and her face was screen printed onto a host of dresses, ranging from sleek shifts to full on fifties, petticoat styles. 

Very 80's in its structure and colour, just check out those shoulders. But actually the hole fur coat thing has a very screen siren feel to it (maybe not in hot pink though).

I seriously WANT THIS COAT!

The detail on this dress is incredible, it is layered pieces at the shoulder, built up and sculptured. The fabric is essentially fused mesh. It is seriously incredible workmanship and I think  often D&G are so kitsch no one notices these little things!

And the Tux!

Again beautiful shoulder work, into a very gorgeous tailored tux. Remember folks, it is all in the detail!

Phrase of the Day : Fash Pack / Fashion Packed

Girls (sometimes boys too) who are so zoned out of real life and real friendships because they are massively caught up in the world of fashion. 

In other words they have been 'fashion packed' - like vacuum packed! All the life, fun and nicety is sucked out to ensure long lasting preservation within the realms of fashion.

Symptoms of this normally mean that they have a tendency to bitch, screw over friends, be fake and wear anything and everything on trend (normally all at the same time). 

It also means a loss of personal style, replaced by styles of celebrities such as Agyness Deyn and co.

Roving Reporter : Etro

I've never paid much attention to Etro, but goodness knows why not!

I loved the colour palette, it had this real weird mix of cosmopolitan, country/hippy chic feel.

The opening looks were my favourite, especially this high waisted leather skirt (below), not overtly sexy, just total sophistication! 

Again we are seeing that 'paired down glamour'. Cute blouses and skirts, made more casual by gladiator sandals and basic macs.

Calf  length trousers are SO A/W 09!

I love this autumnal brown, actually one of my favourite colours! I loved the front pleats too. Relaxed tailoring is definitely the way to go.

Again prints has a slight hippy / Aztec feel. This definitely sits well with the tribal trend that is set to carry on from S/S 09 to the winter months.

There were loads of tribal print dresses, especially maxi dresses, something normally associated with the summer months. In cold Europe, I dread to see what the rain will do to these beauties, but they make a more relaxed alternative to the LBD.

Also note the fabulous statement necklace.

Though there were plenty of fur jackets and coats I was more interested in the gold brocade. There has been so much metallic, textured weaves on the catwalks. Not only in Milan but also in sunny London and NYC.

Roving Reporter: Richard Chai

Richard Chai has been developing this tough-looking rock queen for a while now. Building on ideas from his last two collections,Chai presented the fashion crowd with gorgeous tartans, tough leather and fabulous furs. The muted palette of black, green, red, white and blue was combined to create edgy check prints and strong, colour-blocked separates. This strong-shouldered coat in leather had a slight 80s, Matrix feel, while the plaid dress was beautifully draped and very versatile.

There have been a fair few leather biker jackets this week, but none so beautifully tailored as Chai's. With slouchy but tailored trousers in metallic olive and oversized plaid, these were clever and fashionable separates, far too showy to become wardrobe classics, but nevertheless fun, fashionable and perfect for a kooky New York crowd.

Fur-trimmed parkas and full -n fur jackets were a nice change from the cocoon shape that has so far proved popular with other design houses this season. Though plaid is often traditionally Scottish, there was quite a tribal element to the dark tones of these checks.

The collection took a grown-up twist with splendidly tailored suiting tucked into tough, heeled biker boots. Strong shoulders, nipped-in waists and detailed sleeves turned these androgynous staples into specialist pieces. Gorgeous!

This printed, asymmetric chiffon dress was so terribly Kate Moss. A perfect choice of tea dress for the inner rebel. The print looked like a cross between ditsy floral and fireworks; it had a slight British vibe to it (think Luella and PPQ).

My final top pick from the Richard Chai show was this quirky, printed, tux-inspired jacket. The print and style were quite 80s, but the silhouette was fantastic. I love the sheer top and slim-fit trouser. Overall the collection was for the grown-up rebel, and while it definitely suits all the cool kids of NYC, I can equally see Chai being a champion on this side of the pond.

Roving Reporter: Marchesa

I'm a HUGE, HUGE, HUGE Marchesa fan! So much so that I had real issues picking out my favourite photos, so I'm afraid you have ended up with nearly all of them. Marchesa make THE MOST beautiful party and red-carpet frocks and this season they treated us to a host of asymmetric, powdery coloured dresses.

There is always plenty of tulle and this season was no exception - the model above looked like a delightful doll, wrapped like a present and sealed with a bow. They are so delicately put together that they almost look unwearable.

I love this slightly gothic number. I'm used to their dresses being all about meringue peaks, pale tones and florals, so to see one that is seriously rocking it up was very interesting indeed.

Again, like S/S09, obi belts are a must. Marchesa has sealed nearly every dress with an oversized bow, a trend we saw plenty of at Paris couture week.

This impish frock had a very summery feel, drenched in appliqued florals - this pulls more in line with trend we saw at the beginning of the week and with the S/S range from Lim and Koi Suwannagate.

There were a host of items in reds and pinks, all beautifully sealed with a bow. This asymmetric piece screams Anne Hathaway. Bows were everywhere the past couple of seasons, so it is no surprise that the hit applique is here to stay.

This moulded-hip number reminded me of Balenciaga's futuristic pieces a few seasons ago. However this is a much brighter and more feminine interpretation. Covered in beads (embellishment trend!) the model looks like she is covered in sweeties, definitely a dress that is truly scrumptious.

One of the very few playsuits around for A/W09. This one however was the smartest one I had seen. Tailored trouser legs and gorgeous bow bodice: I think this is one for Katy Perry!

I'm getting a Sienna Miller/Carrie Bradshaw vibe from this fabulous frock. Firstly, what a breathtaking blue. All frou-frou and embellishment, I cannot wait to see this one on a red carpet somewhere. (Though I would prefer to see it in my closet.)

Origami silhouette: this sculptured piece was simply outstanding and well left till last.

Just the most incredible shape I have ever seen. I think I'm speechless and may have to go and lie down.

Roving Reporter: Halston

Halston, like its London counterpart Ossie Clark, is another resurrected brand. Last winter saw Halston present stunning maxi gowns in simple, classic and beautiful silks. This season however the vibe was more grungy and though the brand is pre-80s, it decided to utilise a bit of punk.

There was an oversized mohair red jumper, acid-bright shifts and wet-look skinny trousers teamed with the sleekest of boy blazers. Styling consisted of bizarre hairlike clutches and snake-effect scarves. This was by no means Studio 54 - this was far more punk-couture.

Harem pants, which are a huge hit this S/S (why?), are here again at Halston, this time massively oversized and in a gorgeous electric blue. (From an LFW preview of a certain designer friend, I know that Halston are not the only ones to be doing blue harems). This teamed with another androgynous blazer, with a weave of sparkle. Do love that it's paired with a vest top though? Bring out the H&M basics to go with your most voluminous, over-the-top pieces to add a relaxed, just-thrown-together look.

A psychedelic-printed stripe dress took asymmetry into its third season. In line with trendspotting, Halston also displayed the cut-out look with a full-fronted, black jersey draped dress with a slashed-out back.

Finally Halston gave a nod to the embellishment trend with a sparkly disco mini dress. Great for a boogie on the LA party season, but how typically New York this collection is is yet to be seen.

A move away from last season, it seems that Halston is trying to mix current trends with brand identity. It now depends on whether Halston followers love it for its hallmarks or simply buy into the current creative vision.