Roving Reporter : Jil Sander

Jil Sander collections are never shell shocking. There is never any print, or anything over complicated about the pieces, having said that the silhouettes and palette are always versatile and extremely well cut.
The palette, again was extremely muted. Cream, grey, white, and black were accented with flickers of banana yellow, vibrant orange and red.

The collection consisted of brilliant women's wear basics; shifts, jackets, coats and tailored trousers. The whole collection (as always) was very minimalist.

Long dress coats, over shifts are like the modern day twin set to Sander. Flat shoes, styled the look and also showed that the collection was not aimed at the frivolous, but the more grown up, shopper. This is very much a collection for sophisticated ladies.

Colour alert! What Sander lacks in crazy silhouettes, he makes up for in the splashes of vibrant colour. This neon orange, shift is gorgeous! 

Sander, may not be setting the world alight with origami style shapes like many of his contemporaries, but no one can argue with his cutting when it comes to the details. Sander created the most incredible curved collar details that allowed hints of coloured lining to show through. It was so brilliantly done, subtle, but showed how well thought out, each and every piece is.

Cocoon coats! I told you, they are everywhere! Check out the beautiful panel detailing and slightly curved front. Plus, it's leather! Beautiful! 

This curved skirt, sits well with the accentuated hip style that is still sweeping through designers ranges for the coming season. I great LBD that would look perfect for a party, jazzed up with OTT, statement jewels!

Love the slightly molded sleeves.

This was probably the most loose cut pair of trousers I have seen so far in Milan. I love this slightly more relaxed shape. Very Sander in style. Again well cut for Sander's main market. 

Like at Giorgio Armani suiting colour was mixed. Is this to make people buy into items that can be  more easily mixed, showing people that we can do away with matchy-matchy suiting?! I think it is definitely the way to go!

Very masculine in cut, the jacket again has structured shoulders, which we know is talk of the town.

There were some prettier, pieces too. There were both short LBD's, mainly asymmetric shifts, as well as a selection of gorgeous, full, length ones. This one mixed fabulous monochrome panels to create a sleek and simple gown that was both striking and elegant. 

A brilliant, typical, Sander collection. Full of wearable pieces, for the correct target market. 

Roving Reporter: Richard Chai

Richard Chai has been developing this tough-looking rock queen for a while now. Building on ideas from his last two collections,Chai presented the fashion crowd with gorgeous tartans, tough leather and fabulous furs. The muted palette of black, green, red, white and blue was combined to create edgy check prints and strong, colour-blocked separates. This strong-shouldered coat in leather had a slight 80s, Matrix feel, while the plaid dress was beautifully draped and very versatile.

There have been a fair few leather biker jackets this week, but none so beautifully tailored as Chai's. With slouchy but tailored trousers in metallic olive and oversized plaid, these were clever and fashionable separates, far too showy to become wardrobe classics, but nevertheless fun, fashionable and perfect for a kooky New York crowd.

Fur-trimmed parkas and full -n fur jackets were a nice change from the cocoon shape that has so far proved popular with other design houses this season. Though plaid is often traditionally Scottish, there was quite a tribal element to the dark tones of these checks.

The collection took a grown-up twist with splendidly tailored suiting tucked into tough, heeled biker boots. Strong shoulders, nipped-in waists and detailed sleeves turned these androgynous staples into specialist pieces. Gorgeous!

This printed, asymmetric chiffon dress was so terribly Kate Moss. A perfect choice of tea dress for the inner rebel. The print looked like a cross between ditsy floral and fireworks; it had a slight British vibe to it (think Luella and PPQ).

My final top pick from the Richard Chai show was this quirky, printed, tux-inspired jacket. The print and style were quite 80s, but the silhouette was fantastic. I love the sheer top and slim-fit trouser. Overall the collection was for the grown-up rebel, and while it definitely suits all the cool kids of NYC, I can equally see Chai being a champion on this side of the pond.

Roving Reporter: Chris Benz

Chris Benz knows some of the seemingly conservative Upper East Side women in New York just want to go downtown and kick it. With that in mind, he presented a collection of 60s-inspired separates with a few dresses - whether zany-printed or simple and ladylike - thrown in for girls sick of bland office wear.


Mary Quant would be proud of the amount of leg flashed from these skirts, but Benz dulls the intrigue with opaque tights. I love the asymmetry of the grassy green dress, and the square-cut coat brings out another season trend.


Around a simple trench, Benz blasts out geometric tights and a bright-yellow cap to loosen things up. The light-coloured pumps are a good alternative to the mega boots from other designers.


And to really break out of the office girl mould, Ben offered up Basso & Brooke-style, bold prints. The button-up blouse and burgundy maxi make an interesting combination, and I could easily see the one-sleeved dress in the East End.

Thoughts on Mr Benz, anyone?

Roving Reporter: Thakoon

Michelle Obama is now a fashion quantity - this we know. Eighties are back - I still say we'll probably regret it later. So put Nouveau Kennedy back 20 years, add a pinch of Russia and you have Thakoon Panichgul's latest collection.


Here we have elements two and three, with a light-grey swing jacket and Russian fur hat. Although I wonder if those at the Kremlin would be upset if Michelle wore it on a visit...Anyway, Thakoon played around with muted colours - cream, sheer camel, dusty rose - and spiced them up with fur, leather gloves and boots.


Continuing with the natural element, the designer made power separates look artsy - and less office-appropriate - with asymmetrical feather details over a sheer top. Paired with those gloves again, and with sleek hair, the top look is one of my favourites from the collection. The tri-coloured fur over the sheath dress veers a bit Golden Girls for me, but Bruna Tenorio - and probably Patricia Field - can make it work.


Thakoon, like so many of his contemporaries, went for the asymmetric shoulder this season. His bright-blue peplum dress gets a note of interest with a dose of extra sleeve, and Jourdan Dunn closed the show with a big-bow bang. With a smaller bow, I'd love to see this out.


Even though it didn't finish the show, I'll finish by asking your thoughts on Thakoon's YSL-meets-80s-shine combo. Glitzy pegged trousers with booties and no bra? Lovely or laughable?

Roving Reporter : Preen

Preen are a huge favourite of mine. They're famous for their asymmetric, deconstructed innovation, and this season was no exception.

Cut-outs are a clear trend winner for A/W09 and Preen more than most have it down to a fine art. Alongside slashed-out sections, they delicately worked chiffon, leather, wool and innovative sparkliness into a fun and playful collection, both rich in colour and design.

Perfect in pink, these beautifully tailored and slightly peg-legged, ankle-skimming trousers are possibly my favourite thing so far this season. Well draped and totally sassy. I love the sheer shirting too. Though in the real world, I'm thinking perhaps a camisole underneath wouldn't go amiss - after all, its not really appropriate Tube attire, is it?

This Pucci-inspired print was far more S/S than A/W, but in true British style, who am I to complain? Again, asymmetric dressing is a key trend, sure to continue a few more seasons.

I loved the way Preen replaced a shoulder with sheer fabric, developing the cut-out trend to a new level.

Hey Jill, look it's your favourite! Here at Fash Pack (though half-vegetarian), we LOVE fur! (But we haven't completely justified it in our minds...) This asymmetric, powdery fur coat is racing straight to the top of our wish list.

Preen trouser shapes mirrored dresses, sleek and body-con, though they weren't quite as skinny as the indie jeans of last year. Trousers are definitely tailored for A/W09. Oh and fur, cardigan, coat, love at first sight!

Monochrome magic, again another body-con piece. Models look like they are wearing flat pumps? Could this be true?! (My ankles hope so.) This piece reminded me of S/S, Henry Holland (see MIA at the Grammys). Again, slight tribal printing and sheer fabric make a great twist on cut-outs (don't you just love it when trends all come together).

One of my faves from the whole collection. Preen is renowned for their rock-and-roll twist, and this wet-look dress is perfect for all those stylish rebels. So how do Preen work? Well here is my theory . . .

'Midriff slashes and a well placed twist = a masterpiece!'

S/S08 was the year of the 80s skater skirt and it looks like, with the inevitable 80s return, so is one our coolest skirt shapes. While super-flirty and full, this little number is perfectly girly. I absolutely adore this.

Always a winter classic, I adore this oversized dogtooth check coat. I have to admit, I was rather surprised that this was the first time I've seen it for A/W. In typical Preen style, they have vastly exaggerated its size with great fitted leather cuffs. Love the rock-couture feel!

It seems that are British-born designers are totally blowing away New York! If only we could support them enough that they would come back home. Either way, I'm pretty keen to claim back Preen as one of our.

Come Brits, show the Yanks (Jill, we love you) what we're made of.

Roving Reporter: Erin Fetherston

Remember the sugary sweet designer who put her goodies in Target a few seasons back? She's still here (and so are the bows), but with focus on Nutcracker tin soldiers and a leaning towards the structural, Erin Fetherston is showing a different side of her aesthetic.


It started with this look - pretty telling for the rest of what was to come. Many of Fetherston's pieces were jackets, whether peplum or prim and proper, paired with statement skirts and graphic tights. And check the headwear.




That's not to say the designer was all about big and bold. She went gothic but ladylike with a lace blouse, those ever popular peg legs and elbow-high, sheer gloves; and an asymmetrical, button-up swing coat. I love the ankle straps on those shoes.


Fetherston didn't obliterate her roots, though: With a quick turn to the pastel and white-tighted, she showed A-line skirts buffed up with plenty of netting, and perhaps my favourite dress of the collection, a Sugarplum Fairy-worthy asymmetric number of chiffon and silk. What prima ballerina wouldn't want to twirl in her toeshoes in this? Sweet, but with a bit more substance, Fetherston shows once and for all that she has lasting potential.

Roving Reporter: Ohne Titel

We all know the recession is pushing fashion-lovers to buy pieces that last: classic and well cut are now the chicer cousins to trendy and notice-me-now. That could either work for Ohne Titel or against it. Designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, former members of Team Lagerfeld, sent out an edited collection of almost exclusively black tops and dresses, often accentuated with cowl necks, leather jackets and grey or black skinnies. Their garments were certainly keepable, but the question is whether consumers will see them as special enough to buy.


Karlie Kloss shows off one of the signatures of the latest Ohne Titel collection: major black boots. Last season's sheer trend continues on top, and the overall look keeps an Alexander Wang-style rocker vibe.


This impeccably fitted dress - with on-trend asymmetric details and emphasis at the waist - is signature Ohne Titel. I worry for the brand, which I love and which has largely come across to critical acclaim, that this could be copied easily on the high street.


Now we see something a bit more unique: an asymmetric, deconstructed leather jacket. The slash plays with the neckline, and that could be a standout for the collection.


Finally seeing some colour, the audience was treated to an exercise in panelling. I love the necklace-style neck detail, which makes the look more noticeable.


Another of my favourite looks brings the just-right cowl neck to meet a metallic, mid-thigh skirt. I'd envy someone wearing that on the street, but this was one of of the few true stand-outs in a small collection. Alexander Wang, who pulls off a similar vibe, finds success not only because of his celeb/model/musician following, but also because he finds a way to add richness, sparkle or a bit of danger to every piece. In a year when shoppers are guarding their credit cards more closely, that could make the difference at the department store.

Roving Reporter: BCBG Max Azria

Max Azria is a very busy man. Aside from heading up BCBG, Max is also showing two other collections this NY Fashion Week: one his own label, Max Azria, and of course the other for his must-have celebrity favourite, Herve Leger.

BCBG is one label, alongside the likes of Donna Karen and Calvin Klein, that does the New York look so well. Dresses were beautifully cut, with deconstructed and paneled dresses and coats the main staples of the collection.

Fabrics were sumptuous: think rich-looking silk, soft jersey and deep, opulent velvets. The colour palette was dark and moody. Perhaps purely because it was winter, Max chose to go for black, deep blue and splashings of cream, which brought the collection into a lighter phase.

Being A/W, coats were instrumental in this collection. There was a huge variety of cuts (though nearly all were black) from tailored dress coats, to this cocoon silhouette. Cocoon coats were the big thing about two winters ago, so if you still have yours tucked away make sure to drag it out. This one is particularly voluminous, but you can always cinch it at the waist with a belt.

It has often been said that the world of fashion doesn't cater to those who actually can buy it. Although we show garments on 16-year-old girls, we expect 40-year-old women to buy. Quite frankly, the hems often are far too shot, and the neckline too plummeting for most 'older' ladies. This, at BCBG, is not the case. Dresses and coats were elegant and trans-generational. Bias cuts ensured that even the sleekest dresses were forgiving.

Again, asymmetric dresses are here to stay, and quite frankly I'm pleased. I love dresses that create focal points, like the one above - it's simple and elegant, but the sweeping line draws the eye up the body. Quite superb! I love the bias cutting too.

I'm not to sure about the insane leg wear. Wet-look leggings were a tremendous hit this season, and thrown under rock-inspired dresses (on the right pair of pins), they look fantastic. But liquid-gold support tights ,I'm not too sure about. For me they ruined a beautiful selection of dresses and separates.

This open-necked, velvet twist dress is well cut and suitable for various figures and ages. The open neck ensures the eye is drawn down the body (not scarily across), and the twisted front can hide a multitude of sins.

Shoots are back! (shoe-boots for all those who missed the it season shoe of 2008). A great wardrobe staple, sadly again teamed with those insane leggings, though they are growing on me and I can deal with them when with boots.

Love the jersey slouch dress. Again, for a man with so much on his plate, this was beautifully executed. In times of economic downfall, women will be looking to buy good, cosy, wardrobe staples. I adore this shade of blue too.

We loved this jacket. Fantastic shoulder again. Ladies take note: Anything with a strong, 80s-inspired shoulders is in for A/W 2009.

This jacket and skirt combo is a perfect example of deconstructed dresses. The perfect panelling and that slight feeling that the skirt was inspired by an upside-down top left me feeling intrigued and wanting a closer look. The cream colour was also hugely instrumental in brightening up the whole collection.

An extremely classic palette but with inventive and creative silhouettes. The pattern cutting was outstanding and a beautiful take on modern, grown-up dressing.

Roving Reporter: Abaete

Oui oui, Fash Pack friends, Laura Poretzky has gone back to her birth country, basing her latest collection on post-revolutionary France. She treated audiences to plenty of ruffles, a gold chain here and there, and more royal crests than a runway has ever seen. (This should be in Poretzky’s blood, as her own company logo is the Portuguese crest her great-great gramps earned as a Brazilian abolitionist and presidential right-hand man.)



Skirts stayed full, mid-thigh and A-line, with the occasional peg-leg trouser thrown in to accommodate an oversized, square-cut coat. Poretzky kept up with ubiquitous asymmetry in regally tiered blouses and partially metallic one-sleeved tops.



Although she didn’t abandon the sense of polish the fashion crowd has come to love her for, Poretzky did sauce up her 26 looks with a short, strapless number in mega-textured pink and green. Finally, a designer who sees something bright in gloomy times.