Roving Reporter : Rick Owens

Rick Owens AKA 'Master of the Leather Jacket' has struck gold again, here in Paris. He presented a beautifully muted collection of skinny trousers, asymmetrically, interestingly cut jackets and tunic style tops. 
The whole palette consisted of black, pale gold and icy grey/blue. It was incredibly calming and again signified an arrival at beautiful, well made but simplified dressing.

The jackets were the main focus point of the show and the interesting and brilliant silhouettes were creative, yet so wearable. If we are going to be investing in quality, then we should all be buying Rick Owens. True Genius! 

Roving Reporter : Jil Sander

Jil Sander collections are never shell shocking. There is never any print, or anything over complicated about the pieces, having said that the silhouettes and palette are always versatile and extremely well cut.
The palette, again was extremely muted. Cream, grey, white, and black were accented with flickers of banana yellow, vibrant orange and red.

The collection consisted of brilliant women's wear basics; shifts, jackets, coats and tailored trousers. The whole collection (as always) was very minimalist.

Long dress coats, over shifts are like the modern day twin set to Sander. Flat shoes, styled the look and also showed that the collection was not aimed at the frivolous, but the more grown up, shopper. This is very much a collection for sophisticated ladies.

Colour alert! What Sander lacks in crazy silhouettes, he makes up for in the splashes of vibrant colour. This neon orange, shift is gorgeous! 

Sander, may not be setting the world alight with origami style shapes like many of his contemporaries, but no one can argue with his cutting when it comes to the details. Sander created the most incredible curved collar details that allowed hints of coloured lining to show through. It was so brilliantly done, subtle, but showed how well thought out, each and every piece is.

Cocoon coats! I told you, they are everywhere! Check out the beautiful panel detailing and slightly curved front. Plus, it's leather! Beautiful! 

This curved skirt, sits well with the accentuated hip style that is still sweeping through designers ranges for the coming season. I great LBD that would look perfect for a party, jazzed up with OTT, statement jewels!

Love the slightly molded sleeves.

This was probably the most loose cut pair of trousers I have seen so far in Milan. I love this slightly more relaxed shape. Very Sander in style. Again well cut for Sander's main market. 

Like at Giorgio Armani suiting colour was mixed. Is this to make people buy into items that can be  more easily mixed, showing people that we can do away with matchy-matchy suiting?! I think it is definitely the way to go!

Very masculine in cut, the jacket again has structured shoulders, which we know is talk of the town.

There were some prettier, pieces too. There were both short LBD's, mainly asymmetric shifts, as well as a selection of gorgeous, full, length ones. This one mixed fabulous monochrome panels to create a sleek and simple gown that was both striking and elegant. 

A brilliant, typical, Sander collection. Full of wearable pieces, for the correct target market. 

Roving Reporter: Richard Chai

Richard Chai has been developing this tough-looking rock queen for a while now. Building on ideas from his last two collections,Chai presented the fashion crowd with gorgeous tartans, tough leather and fabulous furs. The muted palette of black, green, red, white and blue was combined to create edgy check prints and strong, colour-blocked separates. This strong-shouldered coat in leather had a slight 80s, Matrix feel, while the plaid dress was beautifully draped and very versatile.

There have been a fair few leather biker jackets this week, but none so beautifully tailored as Chai's. With slouchy but tailored trousers in metallic olive and oversized plaid, these were clever and fashionable separates, far too showy to become wardrobe classics, but nevertheless fun, fashionable and perfect for a kooky New York crowd.

Fur-trimmed parkas and full -n fur jackets were a nice change from the cocoon shape that has so far proved popular with other design houses this season. Though plaid is often traditionally Scottish, there was quite a tribal element to the dark tones of these checks.

The collection took a grown-up twist with splendidly tailored suiting tucked into tough, heeled biker boots. Strong shoulders, nipped-in waists and detailed sleeves turned these androgynous staples into specialist pieces. Gorgeous!

This printed, asymmetric chiffon dress was so terribly Kate Moss. A perfect choice of tea dress for the inner rebel. The print looked like a cross between ditsy floral and fireworks; it had a slight British vibe to it (think Luella and PPQ).

My final top pick from the Richard Chai show was this quirky, printed, tux-inspired jacket. The print and style were quite 80s, but the silhouette was fantastic. I love the sheer top and slim-fit trouser. Overall the collection was for the grown-up rebel, and while it definitely suits all the cool kids of NYC, I can equally see Chai being a champion on this side of the pond.

Roving Reporter: Ohne Titel

We all know the recession is pushing fashion-lovers to buy pieces that last: classic and well cut are now the chicer cousins to trendy and notice-me-now. That could either work for Ohne Titel or against it. Designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, former members of Team Lagerfeld, sent out an edited collection of almost exclusively black tops and dresses, often accentuated with cowl necks, leather jackets and grey or black skinnies. Their garments were certainly keepable, but the question is whether consumers will see them as special enough to buy.


Karlie Kloss shows off one of the signatures of the latest Ohne Titel collection: major black boots. Last season's sheer trend continues on top, and the overall look keeps an Alexander Wang-style rocker vibe.


This impeccably fitted dress - with on-trend asymmetric details and emphasis at the waist - is signature Ohne Titel. I worry for the brand, which I love and which has largely come across to critical acclaim, that this could be copied easily on the high street.


Now we see something a bit more unique: an asymmetric, deconstructed leather jacket. The slash plays with the neckline, and that could be a standout for the collection.


Finally seeing some colour, the audience was treated to an exercise in panelling. I love the necklace-style neck detail, which makes the look more noticeable.


Another of my favourite looks brings the just-right cowl neck to meet a metallic, mid-thigh skirt. I'd envy someone wearing that on the street, but this was one of of the few true stand-outs in a small collection. Alexander Wang, who pulls off a similar vibe, finds success not only because of his celeb/model/musician following, but also because he finds a way to add richness, sparkle or a bit of danger to every piece. In a year when shoppers are guarding their credit cards more closely, that could make the difference at the department store.