Roving Reporter: Marc Jacobs

If everyone was trying to be subtle about their love of the 80s for A/W09, then no one sent Marc Jacobs the memo...

V-neck, oversized grey jumpers (actually what I had to wear to school), were teamed with full, hip-enhancing miniskirts in cute prints. Opaque tights and tightly coiffed hair sealed the school girl look, while the crazy ruched gloves and brightly hued neck scarf added that flash of teenage rebellion.

As with so many others this week, strong shoulders were a huge trend at the Jacobs show. Whilst still keeping the uniform grey tones, miniskirts and fur show that these weren't just any school girls, but the glam, upstate New York ones. If they were to add a British kid to Gossip Girl, she would so dress like this.

Whilst everyone is concentrating on cut-outs this week, we were pleased to see a more developed twist at Marc's show. Here fabric has been slashed away from the top, dark layer (note the bandage-style silhouette), to reveal a more spicy and invigorating hot-pink print peeking through.

Again, this was an extremely 80s disco look, from the cutest shoots (shoe-boots), to the Pat Butcher earrings. Take Note: asymmetric dresses have been big this week too, but more interestingly instead of the one-shoulder look of past seasons, we are seeing a shift towards one-sleeved dresses.

High-waisted, pinstripe peg legs; Unlike Donna Karan, this is not classic workwear. Jacobs does a retro twist to his city slicker looks and we love it. While Karan is catering to the tough city ladies of New York, Jacobs is hanging out with the cool kids on the block - dressing women with a sense of style and who love humour and ironic twists to their wardrobes. This origami top is totally outrageous and the soft, golden meringue peaks are very brassy. Remember, Marc Jacobs is not for the shy and retiring!

I couldn't help but chuckle at this look. Its so Bowie/Ziggy Stardust. Strong shoulders, peplum on the waist, crazy psychedelic prints. This is the 80s reincarnated and I love it. Jackets with structured shoulders will be huge this A/W. Check out the cut out detailing on the neckline here: two trends in one. Though the model looks like she has a mullet, she is redeemed by the peg leg, ankle ruche-effect jeans. Now that is a style I can see being championed on the high street.

I've come over all giddy on this one. I LOVE gold and this dress is now my fantasy piece for next season. Already a big trend this summer, metallic (influenced by a new 80s revival) is set to still be huge by fall. The styling on this number is perfect. While the gold full-tucked skirt and structured shoulder is fairly dramatic, pairing with a simple belt and tights has made this outrageous piece pretty wearable. In fact I would dress it down with a black polo and cute, suede, shoe boots. Goodness me, I want that dress!

Cocoon coats started to put in an appearance this week, seeing a revival of the much loved winter silhouette. While cool and cozy, this style must be cinched with a belt to avoid looking like a marshmallow penguin. I adore this fur trim and the polka-dot weave is incredibly retro.

Colours at Jacobs were pretty loud and proud. There was a little bit of everything with Marc showing one of the biggest collections so far this week, with around 60 looks total. From canary-crazy yellow, bubblegum pink, forest greens and blazing blue, there was a total rainbow. This was all topped off with accents of metallic tones and held together by the uniform black opaque tights.

Pea-green coat anyone? Bright coats have been really huge for the past couple of seasons. These back-to-basic brights are a sure winner. I love the colour combo here and look forward to wrapping up in cheerful wool trenches and soft scarves to banish the miserable weather.

While trouser legs remained pegged, skirts yet again appeared to be heading back towards last summer's skater style. Short and flirty, these ditsy-print florals were bright and cheery. It's also important to remember that while these appear to be heavy silks or satins, you can keep wearing your summer florals into fall by teaming with thick tights. (Just a little credit-crunch tip for you)

I'm giggling quietly to myself at the state of these poor models locks. If 80s is coming back (and I think it's pretty obvious that it is) then I'm hoping we can leave the Boy George haircuts at home. Another strong and playful jacket silhouette. Loved the angular cut. It had quite a futuristic sports feel to it, which went well with the foil-esque skirt. Again long gloves - seriously the writing is on the wall, fashion folk!

Perfect in pink, this showed a move away from the earlier outerwear styles and oversized piece to total 80s body-con. This shift-style dress looks almost molded around the bust and waist. Very Lady GaGa. Interestingly styled with the in-your-face scarf.

The schoolgirl look began to return towards the end, with the black neck tie once more in the styling. This particular look was a lot darker and more gothic than the shiny, pop-80s look of earlier pieces. Again strong shoulders and flashes of electrifying turquoise showed versatility and fun in a kooky collection.

Finally! Loved this last piece of monochrome magic. Puff-ball, square shoulders, big hair and black lips...off to the school disco then?

Roving Reporter : Donna Karan

Having shown diffusion line DKNY early in the week, it was now time for our second installment of the global brand. Donna Karan is well known for power dressing. Being a New York-based label, collections are made to represent the city's high-flying women. This meant that the collection, as usual, managed to combine just the right amount of sexiness and strength that NYC ladies need.

First up were sleek workwear separates. Donna has gone for high roll necks for next season, with high neck lines featuring on everything from work to eveningwear. There was also plenty of jersey - this draped-front top is a beautiful, timeless piece and I have a feeling that Donna Karan will do well out of the current trend to buy excellent quality basics.

Pencil skirts were another key piece. As a signature to power dressing, every woman should own a black, pencil skirt. I love the up-date version in a slight wet look.

Donna Karan mainline is always influenced heavily by 80s power dressing, and this was no exception. Again blazer-style jackets, squared-off shoulders and boxy cuts give a nod to the Thatcher look. The looks cleverly cinched at the waist with a belt to give a more feminine feel.

Great new trouser shape too. Sitting on the ankle, with quite a loose silhouette, this is neither boyish nor begged, but a real androgynous look.

I totally adore camel-coloured coats. It's a weird obsession, I know, but there is something so rich and chic about it (naturally, little grungy me couldn't pull it off). With global warming (yawn), making us have ice-cold winters, this belted coat is smart outerwear. There's this real city-man feel, only feminised by the belt.

The colour palette was quite muted - black, grey and camel - with accents of vibrant blue and berry. I love these bright hues to add a touch of lightness. Even New York needs colour!

Again oversized shoulders and cinched waists added to an hourglass 80s look. The mid-length skirt came across a bit frumpy, but as a strong commercial piece that can work for various age groups.

In detail: If it isn't cinched ladies, it won't cut it next season! Love the front patch pockets too, (and yes the fur). So practical!

Capes and three-quarter kimono sleeves were huge for outerwear last year, and having invested in my cape (and long gloves), I'm pleased to see Donna championing it again here. A great sleeve shape, and the stunning fur neckline looked very cosy for those icy New York winters.

One of Donna Karan's top sellers is her outerwear, probably because these are great investment pieces. This leather, oversized lapel number is absolutely gorgeous and if your budget will stretch, definitely worth the investment. A great leather jacket never goes out of style.

Take note of the oversized jewels on show. Donna's models were adorned with baubles and more crafty, tribal pieces, in a mixture of gold, silver and copper. Normally a no-no, this metal mix is definitely a big, clunky yes. Statement jewels has been a reoccurring trend that is thankfully set to continue.

Sexy shoes were all the rage at the Donna Karen show. I adore this oh so slighty slutty leopard-print pair! Platform heels, straps and sexy zips: these are a tall order and very 80s.

Love the studs on the shoe, do not however envy the model. Though they look a wee bit high for me, it's good to see that two shoe trends from past seasons are carrying on. Zips on heels, again from a bygone era, still totally cool though; and studs on heels - thank goodness those studded Louboutins aren't past it yet!

Embellishment has been huge again on the NY catwalks. Mainly taking an 80s twist, this military style jacket is totally fab (even if it's a bit Adam and the Ants).

I am a huge champion of jersey in evening wear, so imagine me whooping when I saw the next few looks! Bias cutting, drapery, glamorous and understated: could you want anything else from a dress?

Love this skin-tight number. Herve Leger, eat your heart out. Again Donna has gone for a high neck (so not one for the busty girls), but I can totally see Keira Knightley in a number like this. Like the belt too, - adds a focal point. Berry, berry beautiful indeed!

I thought I'd ended on a craft piece. Most of the collection was about simple, classic, investment pieces. All beautifully designed and tailored. However I love this last red-carpet number for its innovative and creative silhouette. The bronzed colour is luscious, the belt makes it edgy and it is overall one of my favourites from the collection.

Roving Reporter : Preen

Preen are a huge favourite of mine. They're famous for their asymmetric, deconstructed innovation, and this season was no exception.

Cut-outs are a clear trend winner for A/W09 and Preen more than most have it down to a fine art. Alongside slashed-out sections, they delicately worked chiffon, leather, wool and innovative sparkliness into a fun and playful collection, both rich in colour and design.

Perfect in pink, these beautifully tailored and slightly peg-legged, ankle-skimming trousers are possibly my favourite thing so far this season. Well draped and totally sassy. I love the sheer shirting too. Though in the real world, I'm thinking perhaps a camisole underneath wouldn't go amiss - after all, its not really appropriate Tube attire, is it?

This Pucci-inspired print was far more S/S than A/W, but in true British style, who am I to complain? Again, asymmetric dressing is a key trend, sure to continue a few more seasons.

I loved the way Preen replaced a shoulder with sheer fabric, developing the cut-out trend to a new level.

Hey Jill, look it's your favourite! Here at Fash Pack (though half-vegetarian), we LOVE fur! (But we haven't completely justified it in our minds...) This asymmetric, powdery fur coat is racing straight to the top of our wish list.

Preen trouser shapes mirrored dresses, sleek and body-con, though they weren't quite as skinny as the indie jeans of last year. Trousers are definitely tailored for A/W09. Oh and fur, cardigan, coat, love at first sight!

Monochrome magic, again another body-con piece. Models look like they are wearing flat pumps? Could this be true?! (My ankles hope so.) This piece reminded me of S/S, Henry Holland (see MIA at the Grammys). Again, slight tribal printing and sheer fabric make a great twist on cut-outs (don't you just love it when trends all come together).

One of my faves from the whole collection. Preen is renowned for their rock-and-roll twist, and this wet-look dress is perfect for all those stylish rebels. So how do Preen work? Well here is my theory . . .

'Midriff slashes and a well placed twist = a masterpiece!'

S/S08 was the year of the 80s skater skirt and it looks like, with the inevitable 80s return, so is one our coolest skirt shapes. While super-flirty and full, this little number is perfectly girly. I absolutely adore this.

Always a winter classic, I adore this oversized dogtooth check coat. I have to admit, I was rather surprised that this was the first time I've seen it for A/W. In typical Preen style, they have vastly exaggerated its size with great fitted leather cuffs. Love the rock-couture feel!

It seems that are British-born designers are totally blowing away New York! If only we could support them enough that they would come back home. Either way, I'm pretty keen to claim back Preen as one of our.

Come Brits, show the Yanks (Jill, we love you) what we're made of.

Roving Reporter: Hot Exhibitions

For those of you who thought that the greatest thing to come out of Sweden was Ikea, then let's face it: You've been living in a deep, dark hole and it's time to come join the rest of the fashion world.

Today the Fash Pack attended the press launch for a new exhibition on Swedish fashion at the Fashion and Textile Museum at London Bridge. We, like most of you, only associated Swedish fashion with our favourite jean brands like Acne, Cheap Monday and of course our high-street fashion fixer H&M.

As it turns out, the underground network of fashionistas bred by this European nation is growing strong, and they are ready to break out abroad! The exhibition (currently touring, it's already been to Moscow andis heading to Berlin and possibly the Far East) is a platform for the great talent coming out of Sweden.

There was a well edited selection of garments, from well known and breakthrough Swedish designers. Topping the bill for us was fashion-week favourite Ann-Sofie Back (who brought her gorgeous dog with her - dressed in a cute little jacket), as well as Selfridges-stocked Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, bespoke knitwear designer Sandra Backlund and design trio Nakkna (soon to be adored at Topshop). Those were just our particular picks!

We saw incredible work in both jewellery and clothing design. Sweden may not be seen as the hub of innovation, but what we saw here depicts the struggle of a small market of designers trying to break the commercial mould to give us fashion inspired by innate creativity. These designers aren't necessarily concerned with trends and the 'in' print/silhouette for the season. They are rocking it London style and doing their own thing!

While London (often seen as the most creative) has a solid infrastructure for innovation within fashion, our Swedish counterparts have often had to fight the system.

Fash Pack were lucky enough to talk to the curator of the exhibition and 1/3 of Nakkna, and we will be bringing you interviews and pictures in the coming days!

Until then, fashion friends, get yourself down to the Fashion and Textile Museum and check out the greatest exports since flat-pack furniture. Let us know who you're loving!

PARIS! : Roving Reporter

Well folks, they let me out the country (and into France - no border guards you see!) and I now type to you from my quaint (slightly un-glamorous) Parisian lodgings.

Tomorrow, yours truly will be entering the world of high fashion and Parisian couture, possibly the most exciting thing since actually being able to navigate Paris on non-existant French. I swear I was better at school!

Entering the world of couture, one is floored by the true fashionista's question: what to wear?!

Seeing as this is just a tiptoe into the way the other half live, and my journey truly was fleeting, I decided to go very un-fashion and pack light (though I still had enough stuff for a small army). I've been reading up on fashion cities, and Paris is apparently where evening and day wear are at one (my kind of city), but I'm afraid I was in no mood (well, if truth be told I went for a new net book over a dress - I hear your gasps) to get all dressed up, and when for what I call simple, chic and instantly fashionable, ALL BLACK!

That's right boys and girls, I've noticed in recent years that unless you are uber-famous, at fashion week the important people wear black, and so I have adopted these camouflage tactics in the vain hope that I can convince people I am really and truly part of the 'fashion pack'.

Unfortunately I failed on the shoe front. Not yet of Elle-editor status, I have to Metro it to my shows, so it's flats all the way! I will be rocking my black dress (Burberry rip-off) with gothic-like studs, black long-sleeve top (it is winter, after all), black tights, a vintage gold leaf cuff (to add a bit of glam) and finally black knee-high patent flat boots.

Outerwear-wise, I've ditched the oh-so-London, jewel-bright trench and traded in for a Parisian-chic wool cape. The look would not be complete without suitable makeup, and I have subsequently plumped for (if I can really pluck up the courage) red rouged lips. Watch Out Paris, FASH PACK is about!