Roving Reporter . . . Molessa

Don't you just love the age of the digital camera? Having filled mine up at AFW I plugged it in to empty it's wares, only to find pictures that dated from my graduation! , Paris Couture Week and LFW showroom trips! That is when I came across this pictures of some of the new A/W range from Molessa and remembered how on-trend and 'Tribally Futuristic' it was! I have actually been thinking about the first silver/nude toned dress quite a lot (actually I have been thinking about myself in that dress) and so I felt it was high time to put it up on the blog!

For enquiries about Molessa contact info@felicities.co.uk

Roving Reporter : Alexander McQueen

I am not ashamed to admit that sometimes I am a total fashion sheep! 

I adore McQueen as much as the next girl, but it is more than that. McQueen will always hold the deepest, darkest, spot in my heart as it was he who inspired me to follow all things fashion.

I had always loved clothes, dressing up and showing off, but it was seeing one of the earliest McQueen pieces at an exhibition at the V & A on a school trip that altered my entire life. I have never not been inspired by him and live totally in awe, and pray that one day I just get to interview him! (actually I'd happy just stand next to him and stare).

McQueen collections are always intensely beautiful, interesting and often dark and eery. There were a few years after joining LVMH that it felt that he had sold out slightly, even when still making the most desirable of frocks, but it has felt that recently McQueen has his mojo back.

There was something deeply dark and rebellious about this collection.

With futuristic overtones, sixties style dog-tooth (stunningly over sized) and slightly 

Pugh-esque rebellion and eighties shapes, this made me fall in love with McQueen all over again.

The fur coats were insane, the corset belts had the Victorian theme that often lies as an undertone to his collections and the experimental, voluminous, silhouettes worked well with more tailored elements.

Based in monochrome and accented by flashes of red, I loved the back to basics colour palette. It made us concentrate on the clothes and reminded the fashion crowd that really and truly Alexander is the best in the business.

The final, dramatic, dresses, again took my breathe away. Everything was so well thought out and the styling was spot on. The shows have been full of dark, mystery and eighties rebellion and while McQueen combined all of this, he put his own, incredible, spin on things.

I hope Dog-tooth makes a comeback, but one thing for sure is that I will be buying those crazy black and white tights!

Roving Reporter : Miu Miu

I adore Miu Miu, from bags and hot shoes to gorgeous clothes, this is a cool and young hearted brand. Though one of the most established the House of Miu Miu is ever evolving. 

For A/W 09 we saw yet again more calming colours teamed with flashes of red and turquoise, both of which have been featured heavily on catwalks around the world.

Over sized jackets and coats, (big on the shoulder and chest to nipped in at the waist) led the way for 'Parisian Chic' suiting.

I loved the Rococo style, brocade like weaves in the jackets, this style has been so popular for next season that it is guaranteed to be EVERYWHERE!

Bra tops are currently the thing for S/S so it was interesting to see them make an appearance here. I love the satchel style bags too, a great alternative to the classic Chanel 2.55

The embellishment trend that was so heavily featured in NYC and then seemed to fizzle out as the fashion circus moved around Europe once again reared its beautiful head!

If you are going to invest in pieces during these 'credit crunch' times, make sure it glitters!

Roving Reporter : Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton was a feast of colour. Bright yellow, monochrome, peach, nude and emerald green all made an appearance. There was a distinct Rococo feel in the prints, with a very 'wallpaper, vintage' style. The colour combinations were divine and exciting and each new look brought new beauty.  Love the printed leggings!

This collection featured a host of ruffled pieces and was extremely romantic. I love the asymmetric ruffling on this skirt. Its all about the details these days, to get shoppers to part with their cash, designers know they have to offer beauty to the extreme and this modern and pretty, young collection did just that. Vuitton set the ball rolling for becoming more edgy with their S/S 09 collection (see Madonna adverts) and this furthers their good work.

When not ruffling it up, models were decorated in very voluminous pieces. Big skirts, peplum jackets and squared shoulders all borrowed from the eighties and a slight punky feel that was accentuated by the thigh high, lace up boots.

Like with a host of other designers. Vuitton has gone for the skinny belt for 09, choosing to waist voluminous jackets to create a full, curvy, silhouette.

A cool, edgy, youthful collection from one of the worlds most lusted over fashion brands.

Roving Reporter : Chloe

Goodness me! What a lush collection! The coat above is one of my favourite, Chloe presented a look of over sized coats, slouchy, tailored trousers, beautiful blouses and very girlish jackets.

The neutral palette reminded me of their colour palette for their Middle Eastern collection a few seasons ago. It was calming and cool, but perfect for the Winter months. 

These high waisted, bronzed trousers, tucked into boots were divine, bring back silky bottom halves!

I love the lace detailing on the shoulders too, there has been surprising little lace about for A/W 09, so it's nice to see it pop up here and there. 

With each new piece there was more excitement! How gorgeous is this jacket, it looked so vintage! Velvet is set to be the fabric of the season, so if you have any old velvet, dig it out for A/W 09, Love the collar!

The styling on the show was great. I have been going on about paired down elegance and this was very evident here. Beautiful, pleated chiffon skirts and dresses were rocked with divine, androgynous, tuxedo jackets. 

LOVE LOVE LOVE

Roving Reporter : Viktor and Rolf

Spooky, ghostly models showed off an incredibly wearable Viktor and Rolf collection. 

Though there were the usual, avant garde pieces that borrowed from beautiful origami styles, plenty of folds, pleats and drapes. 

 
The collection concentrated heavily on outerwear. The leather trenches were incredible. The colour palette was also pretty divine! I adore this tanned colour above, as well as the icy grey and monochrome tones.

There was more evidence of a sheer and sparkly trend here at Viktor and Rolf. I'm ooohhing after this frock! There hasn't been much in the way of geometric patterns for next season, but if there is a great look to copy next season, I would definitely try my hand at the one above.

Firstly, that bodice is superbly designed and executed. 

There has been a serious lack of embellishment in Paris, with most preferring to look at silhouettes and fabric. This embellished frock would look perfect at any red carpet event and is like a far more sophisticated SJP look! 

Roving Reporter : Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix presented a lovely collection of tres wearable separates and sleek shifts today at PFW. 

Coats were over sized and exaggerated. There was a slight androgynous feel overall and the use of beautiful wools in  monochrome palette was chic.

Prints were very grown up. Wintery floral was used to break up the block colours.

I loved this little polo neck jumper. The appliqued sleeves are gorgeous!

More brocades! At least all the trends are coming together now!

Roving Reporter : Costume National

Costume National often stays below the raider, G-d only knows why though!

This was a delicious collection that slotted right into A/W 09's top trends.

There was fabulous navy/black mix brocades that took the form of tailored jackets and super high waisted skirts and cute shifts.

Trouser legs were again calf skimming and a pencil straight cut, while jackets featured the now total must have, eighties, structured shoulder.

Sheer fabric was still popular, with simple tees showing plenty of skin. Styling consisted mainly of cute shoe-boots, keeping the rest of the look quite clean, with bold lips.

Asymmetric dresses, which have been the must have evening look, were again shown here. I love this vibrant red one (again red IS the colour for next winter) with beautiful drape details.

And finally . . . metallic! Gold foil and brocade has been popular from NYC to Europe. Loved this mixed fabric dress. Block colouring with a twist!

One of the most wearable and for me desirable this week . . . I want!

Roving Reporter : Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten (DVN) always does the most wearable and desired collections! Post show she is always the name on everyones lips and this season is set to be no different.

The colour palette was gorgeous. Tan, mustard, orange, navy and peach accented a monochrome palette.

There were divine prints. That were a twist on graphic florals. The colour and panelled mixtures within the outfits were extremely clever and created a visually interesting collection.

Skirts were straight, though not quite as pencil as seen elsewhere. Skimming just above calfs this was a demure and elegant look.

Trousers were super silky, almost pyjama like, not quite baggy or straight!

There were cute leather jackets and lovely knits. This is a perfect credit crunch collection. Quality and style.

Roving Reporter : Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan (HC) has gone all sexy on us! 

Hem lines crept up to bottom skimming levels! While the focus of the collection was obviously technological fabrics, using acetate foam fabrics. This created some gorgeous cocoon coats, funnel necks, as well as some more sellable pieces.

There were some gorgeous tuxedo style jackets as well as more 'tribal warrior' molded tops, that would have Lady GaGa salivating!

I loved the prints, they seemed to be inspired by fences, asphalt and manhole covers. 

So HC!

Wet look leggings are still 'in', but there has been an increased use of the silver variety. We saw them again here at Chalayan.

Over all a very workable collection. 

Combining print, HC technological advances and wearable pieces. What more could we ask for?

Roving Reporter : Sonia Rykiel

Sonia always does the cutest things! I love her Sonia By . . . range, super chic, patterned knits and this translates back into main line Sonia. 

There were fabulous stripe jumper dresses, over sized cardigans and big, waist cinched fur coats. There were both voluminous, hareem style cut trousers, as well as more work wear, straight cut, front crease varieties. 

There was quite an androgynous feel to the collection, with models having scraped back hair and trooping down in trouser suits and waist coats.

There was plenty of wool, both knitted and suited, (note the use of plaid). Some more girlish pieces included sparkly, embellished dresses and the most amazing jewel encrusted tux jacket, with velvet lapels. This signaled the use of velvet again, fashion week has been covered in the stuff and some gorgeous hareem, black velvet trousers showed a youthful vibe, to what is often seen as a stuffy fabric. 

A thoroughly gorgeous collection! 

Roving Reporter : Comme des Garcons

Comme des Garcons (CdG) is always a flight of fancy. Exaggerated silhouettes were played out in a host of delicious neutral tones. Sheer silk chiffon and organza were blended with quilted silk and brocades to create stunning coats and coat dresses.

Plaid has been suffering a decline overall, but has actually grown in popularity in Asia. Though hardcore devotees (such as Westwood) still use plaid it was great to see CdG play with the traditional fabric. They create beautifully draped pieces that worked really well with the depth of the tartan patterns. Trousers took on a legging form and looked almost brocade like. Rich and steeped in history this was an innovative and fun collection. The cute cropped trenches were a particular favourite.

Those that weren't of the legging variety, were true to form, CdG, wide legged, ankle skimmers. This overall 'baggy' silhouette saw CdG break all the rules with over sized tops and trousers teamed together.

A more wearable than usual CdG collection. Love it

Roving Reporter : Jean Paul Gaultier

While everyone else at PFW has gone all girlish, JPG has played the androgynous card!

Models strutted down in sharp suits that had far squarer cuts than what has already been shown so far for A/W 09. There was a harsher, masculine feel and it was very unisex, in fact some of the models had a real New York, 1930's speak easy style. 

There was some beautiful outerwear, check out in this picture above, the back of the model walking away. Fine mesh detailing on the yolke and stand up collar of the trench, is so gorgeous. This was masculine styles, with a delicate and detailed edge! Perfect.

Though the main colour palette was again monochrome based, there were flashes of bright blue and hot red (all very eighties).

There were plenty of lovely, chic dresses. Simple in design, perfect in cut.

Love these two toned tights! Boots have been creeping up the leg all week! There were some interesting waders earlier in the week but what we saw here were more wearable, 70's blue suede knee highs!

Naturally there was a splash of fur (all the best European shows have it). Take note of big shoulders, nipped in, skinny belted waists and lots of sheer and mesh styles. This is the look of A/W 09.

Roving Reporter : Sophia Kokosalaki

I'm staging a sit in!

Where are all the Grecian numbers. I know Sophia has to move on but I loved her for her uber girlish style and dreamy frocks and though this collection again was beautifully made and detailed impeccably I can't help but feel cheated.

This A/W offering was much harder hitting and was on of the first lot of eighties looks seen here in Paris.

There were wet look dresses in eighties black, with structured shoulders. This had a back to the future feel as the wet looks were teamed with tribal / futuristic elements too.

Silk jersey, left behind the drapes and took on a new form, this time Sophia went all body con showing sleek leggings and form fitting tops, with some lovely cowl necks. Flashes of bright orange lifted a monochrome to nude palette.

Embellishment had a slight tribal feel but also reminded me of futuristic armour.

Sheer has been a big deal everywhere and I love the way Sophia played with that in her eveningwear.

Again, futuristic, origami folds, python style panelling. These were definitely futuristic warrior ladies. The collection was strong, sexy and far more body con than usual, but though I'm still debating my letter of complaint at the lack of drapes and empire lines, I'm warming to the versatility of my favourite fashion lay.

If I have to be a tough, warrior princess next season, I'm going to be doing it head to toe in Kokosalaki.

Roving Reporter : Dior

Trust Galliano to ignore the trend for sad colours and bring his show out with a big bang!

A monochrome start was shown alongside orange, red, purple, pink and metallic flashes  - this was like the most fashionable rainbow!

Shapes were gorgeous and girly and the whole collection had a slight global, traveller feel.

There were tribal style prints, that reminded me very much of batik techniques and the skirt hems all went into bubble inspired shapes (something I haven't seen for a good few seasons).

Shirt dresses were shown along side shifts and empire line maxis, to create a diverse collection, with a little bit of something for everyone! This really was a chocolate box variety show.

Metallic weave brocades have been immensely popular for A/W 09 and I loved the gold toned ones here. This beautiful asymmetric dress had a Middle Eastern feel, only adding to the travel vibe of the show.

Finally I had to show you this divine jacket!

Having skipped through Africa and the Middle East we hit the Orient with this fab Jacquard weave and harem style pants! Love!