Roving Reporter: Temperley London

Temperley returned to New York City this season to show her Temperley London collection in a two-day presentation and web video. Suggesting she has been looking for a new way of presenting her collection for a while, she joins a growing number of designers who have abandoned catwalk shows this season (though most have admitted that the decision was made for economic reasons).

I normally associate Temperley with girly loveliness, but this collection was a lot harsher and all the better for it. Using the Silk Route as the starting point, we follow Temperley as she travels through time zones and continents. There were heavy influences from tribal trends, nature, Morocco and Japanese origami.

These hats had a fez come Russian feel, and I loved the little pom-poms. There was a surprising amount of leopard print in the collection but I have to admit I'm quite fond of it. I loved the little tunic here, styled over the skinniest of trousers and quite a prim, voluminous-sleeved blouse. Like at Donna Karan, necklines have been hiked up for winter, but interestingly enough the wide corseted waist belt made its first appearance. Most designers have gone for normal- to skinny-cut belts, so it's nice to see variety.

Take note of the gorgeous bag here. Last season shifted to delicate, unusually shaped handbags and I am dreaming of this one! Also loving the unusual dress hemline here: The petal-like curves remind me of Peter Jensen's diffusion dresses for Topshop.

Are they pegged? Are they harem pants? No, they are an amalgamation of the two! How crazily cool is that?
Very much like a Russian Babushka doll. Adore the embroidery and print. Though don't ask your boyf if it makes you look fat!

Geometric, tribal prints are set to carry through from S/S09 to A/W. Again I am loving these hourglass shapes. The wide, cinched-waist belts create fantastic hip silhouettes.

Floral origami was a big hit at couture this season. This thigh-skimming dress is simply fantastic - the work and detailing make this bang on trend with next season's move towards rich, embellished pieces.

Styling again saw long gloves making their mark. As with Donna Karan's show, shoes were treated to a little bit of studding, just for a bit of extra punk perfection. Love this tribal, bib-front embroidery. Natural and tribal markings have taken the fashion crowd by storm and they don't seem to be slowing down soon.

Love the styling on this last look. Black tights, white maxi?! Somehow it just works. Great silhouette, quite a classic Temperley look.

All in all a very different collection, with no 80s vibe at all. I was pleased for a change, though I am starting to miss my glitter ball...

Lesage and Massaro: Friends of Pilati and Lagerfeld

Confession: I almost missed the Francois Lesage and Raymond Massaro show at haute couture week because the concierge at my hotel gave some wonky directions. Thanks to an extra speedy cab driver and the good will of the fashion gods, the crisis was averted.

It's a good thing it all worked out because Lesage and Massaro know how to pull off a theme. With their show in an old, red-carpeted cinema, the two showed off everything from a mesh-chested wedding dress (not for the modest) to a seriously 18th-century whaleboned corset that would have looked perfect on Keira Knightley in The Duchess. The vibe was 1920s film noir, and though most of their line of corsets veered to the bizarre, they worked it.


Most of their show was a video presentation that featured a heavily eyelinered, bob-haired model on different imaginary streets in Paris. I'm assuming this was somehow funny, judging from the audience's laughter, but then again I don't speak enough French to get irony.

Lesage owns a 125-year-old embroidery company that provides textiles for the likes of YSL, and Massaro's shoemakers are a favourite for Unkle Karl (Lagerfeld)'s haute couture shows. Clearly these gents know the technical side of the biz, and it was all about details here. Their looks were more Dali/Schiaparelli out-there than many people would wear, but that's why it's so easy to respect what they do - each corset is a handcrafted piece of Surrealist art.


A few of my favourite parts of the show? Seeing the bajillion-pound, art-deco Cartier diamond necklace the designers managed to get, and realising in person what a freaking giant Ivana Trump is. Shall Rivkie and I plan on seeing you at ready-to-wear week, Ivana sweetie?