I love DVF - it's always one of the first sections I dash to in Selfridges - and I totally treasure my secondhand (sorry, vintage) DVF wrap dress. This woman is pure fashion magic, and what's more, her clothes are for real women. There is always something for everyone at a DVF show, and this time was no exception.
I'll start from the top and work my way down. So first, headgear. Ever wondered what hat to sport next season? This A/W we had the sequin beret; next winter, we will apparently all decorate our crowns with flowers (if DVF is to be believed). Every model trooped the runway in winter-warm beanies adorned in floral, 3D appliques and pom poms. Now this is a look I truly hope to see sported at bus stops everywhere.
Next we had prints and palettes. As with Herve Leger, there was a definite tribal feel. Usually reserved for the summer months, it looks like we're all going on safari this fall, with plenty of natural shades on offer. Oak brown, mustard, monochrome, tan and burnt reds were the main basis for the palette, occasionally spiced up by silver, royal blue and turquoise.
Prints were total safari classics, with a large amount of leopard coming into play. Teamed with this was a continuation of this winter's love of geometric style, tribal prints, abstract graphics and, somewhat unusually, tartan.
A vast array of dresses, separates and coats were shown, teamed with a mix of print to gloss leggings, elbow-high gloves and medium-sized clutches. Footwear featured calf boots (very high), and a vast array of socks with platform-sandals (you wouldn't let Dad do it would you?)
Most garments were symmetrical, though one or two asymmetric dresses put in an appearance. I would put this down to DVF's main target market. It is noticable that DVF's collection (HUGE), was a lot more RTW than others I have seen so far. It takes into account the viability and commercial aspects of each piece, which probably explains its global success. However beautiful asymmetrical gowns are, they're not simple to wear.
Coats, jackets and knitwear were oversized and slouchy - either left loose over delicate, embellished dresses or cinched at the waist with some of the skinniest belts ever. It was interesting teaming Sunday best with casual outerwear. Perhaps we're entering a new era: With all this recession talk, people are buying more expensive and exciting singular pieces to wear all the time.
Trousers tapered at the ankle and continued the peg leg. There were some thigh-skimming tunics, but unlike at Azria, DVF modestly covered her models with leggings.
Some incredible embellishments really brought home the tribal theme. From tasseling to beading, models looked like they had been adorned in tribal mosaics. It was gorgeous, with a natural arts-and-crafts feel.
Skirts borrowed from last S/S skater style, but veered more towards a 50s, full silhouette.
Both skirts and dresses finished above the knee.
A crammed collection, with a little bit of something for everyone. I was really impressed by the prints and embellishments. With tough times ahead for the fashion industry, everyone, including established labels have upped their game.
Unusually, the duo opted for an update of the duchess look with short, thigh-skimming versions. So the volume was intense and striking. Evidently strong pattern-cutters, most of the garments looked like they had developed on the stand, as the shapes were vast, yet well thought-out and executed. Bodice styles varied from strapless to the current, trendy, one-shoulder silhouette. The collection definitely had a period feel, as the dresses were complimented by tailored Capri pants and cropped sleeve jackets reminiscent of the 18th century.
With each music change, the collection developed and reformed, and although silhouettes were uniform throughout, each piece was unique. Block colours developed into print, with the colours being combined to create a floral print that referenced stately home decor in its style.
The final stage of the show concentrated on glitz and glam, with dresses decorated with intricate beading detail. This was worked into pleats, folds and carefully moulded bodices.
Posts
